Devon, 06-07 July 2014

July 6, Sunday

We didn’t have any plans for today, aside from driving to our next rental house in Devon.  We just headed out in the morning and started looking for interesting road signs.  It turned out to be one of our more interesting days.  It’s always so fun and rewarding when spontaneity works out.  It has a dangerous potential for going the other way.

So, we ended up in Cheddar … the town where cheddar cheese was invented.  It’s in a beautiful and unique geological region, part gorge and part cave system.

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This is the original cheese shop where cheddar cheese was first created and offered for sale.  We made note of it because we wanted to buy some cheese there on our way out of town.  But first, there were caves to explore.

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They have two caves in Cheddar.  The small one only takes about 10 minutes to go through, but is neat and worth seeing.

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Next up was Jacob’s Ladder and the Lookout Tower.  Jacob’s Ladder is a hike cut into a big hill, straight up 274 steps.  They have markers at different levels detailing what was going on during that period of time …. 184 million years ago, the first ocean animals were found here, etc.  At the top, it says if you place a sheet of paper on the last step, the thickness of the paper represents the amount of time modern humans have existed.

The Lookout Tower is another 48 steps.

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Even after all those stairs, there is still energy for climbing a tree.

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The bigger of the two caves was called Gough Cave.  This is the one where they store and age the cheese.  It’s also the site where the remains of an ancient human body were found, now called Cheddar Man and dating back to 7150BC.  (The skeleton was a replica.)

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Stacks of cheese.  They are covered with the special mold found in this cave system which gives cheddar cheese it’s flavor.

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A photo of the mold growing all over the walls of the cave.  It looks gross, but makes good cheese!

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Dumb obligatory tourist photo.

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At the Cheddar Man and the Cannibals Museum.  This was a display for kids to try their hand at cave painting.

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What is a lesson about human cannibalism without a nice visual to help you imagine it?

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Back at the Original Cheddar shop.  We bought a wedge of cheese aged in the cave we’d just toured, and I bought a stoneware cheese plate.

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Cheddar was much more interesting and time consuming than we expected, so once we were done we didn’t have time to stop anywhere else.  We needed to drive another 90 miles to check into our house.

This is the coolest house we’ve ever stayed in.  We’re here for the next 4 days in a cottage that was built in the 1200s. It looks like a museum … no structure like it exists in the United States. It smells funny — what we’ve come to realize is that when people say “It’s damp,” what they really mean is “It stinks of mildew.” That’s what you get with uninsulated stone walls that can’t breathe.

Just to put the timeline in perspective:  when Henry VIII was giving the middle finger to the Catholic church, chopping off Anne Bolyne’s head, and strutting around with a turkey leg in each hand and an ermine stole wrapped around his shoulders, this cottage was already 300 years old.  This cottage was already the same age as the United States is now when Christopher Columbus set sail for his first voyage.

The ceiling is so low Adam keeps bonking his head. It’s also right behind a church with a creepy graveyard, so I’ve promised the kids can they can go over there after it gets dark and see if they are brave enough to handle the ghosts.

The town is called Holne. A community has existed here since at least the 11th century. The current population is 250 and is served by one church and one pub.  That is ALL. We made do for dinner tonight with 6 eggs we happened to have in the car and the wedge of cheddar cheese we’d just purchased, because we didn’t want to drive to the next nearest town for a grocery store and the pub in this town was closed.

We’ve taken a lot of pleasure in our “Skyrim dinners” before, but this is probably much closer to something the people of 1200-something would have had to eat …. a half-dozen eggs, some cheese, and a few crackers.  The kids scavenged a bowlful of strawberries, raspberries, and some apples out of the yard.  The apples on the tree aren’t quite ripe yet and pretty sour, but still edible.  We were grateful to have them. L1005725

The church and graveyard right next door.

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The front room of our cabin [photo below].  From what we can tell, this room most likely was the kitchen back in the day.  The fireplace (where the wood burning stove is now) has a big opening in the back for bread and other foods.

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We sat in this room on our computers, watching satellite TV.  I said, “Can you imagine what someone from 1200 who used to live in this house would think if they could see what we’re doing right now?”

Isabella said, “They’d think we were witches.”

They probably would, too.  I communicated with a friend who is visiting Dublin at the moment, 3 minutes after she sent a message.  I also communicated with a friend living in Kansas who is having a birthday today, my parents in Idaho, and another friend in Anchorage, Alaska.  All from this 1200s cottage in the south of England.  We are living in an age of magic become real.

Dining area.

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The kitchen has been somewhat modernized, in that it has an electric stove, running water, a dishwasher and a washing machine.  (No dryer.)  The old-fashioned stove (pictured) works and is warm because of a pilot light.  I have absolutely no idea how to control the temperature for cooking, so I took the easy way out and boiled our eggs on the electric stove (not pictured.)

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The master bedroom.

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The second bedroom.  All three kids are crammed in here.  You can see the old fireplace behind the main bed.  It’s directly above the fireplace in the living room, sharing a chimney.

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July 7, Monday

This morning our plans are to visit the Dartmoor Zoological Park. This is the park that is the subject of the book and movie “We Bought a Zoo.”  On the way, we stopped in the town of Plymouth for breakfast.

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Getting ready to leave for the day. Laundry hanging out to dry. When we left, there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. By the time we got home later that afternoon, the clothes had been rained on and were wet again.

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Isabella walking along the Royal Citadel in Plymouth. This was built in the 17th century to defend the coastline from the Dutch, and keep a watch on a recently rebellious town. It is not open to the general public as it is still used as an operational military establishment.

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That plaque the kids are standing in front of reads:  Mayflower 1620.  This is the very spot where the Pilgrims set sail for the Americas.

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The Pilgrims’ Steps. At this location on the quay, and down these actual steps walked William Bradford and the Pilgrims of 1620, boarding the Mayflower for Plymouth Colony.

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Dartmoor Zoological Park.  Capybaras, the largest members of the rodent family.

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What was different about this zoo – and this is meant as a bit of a compliment – was because it was privately owned, and a bit low budget, they were very relaxed about regulations and provided better access to the animals.  Here is a blind albino wallaby …

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…. and here is me, getting right in with him.  He seemed friendly and willing to get petted, until he smelled my hands.  Back in one of the shops in Plymouth, I tried a sample of heavily-perfumed hand cream.  Once we got to the animal park, I wished I hadn’t.  The animals all hated it …. goats, sheep, the wallaby, the fox.

Immediately after this photo was taken, he yanked his head back like he’d gotten a big sniff of something hideous and hopped away into the grass.

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European brown bears.

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Meercats with babies.

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On to Dartmouth. The town is set on steep hills, almost falling down into an estuary of the river Dart which empties to the sea. This port served as the sailing point for the Crusades of 1147-1190. It later became a major base for pirate privateering in the Middle Ages. Some of the big names of past sailing/exploring (Drake, Raleigh, Hudson) made this their base.

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The kids and I saved a few french fries and whole wheat bread to feed to the seagulls.  You can see us standing on the bridge if you look closely.

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Adam:  I just about got us into some trouble yesterday in Dartmouth. The hills are very steep and some of the roads are very narrow. In an effort to leave the town, my GPS got me into some alleyways that I almost couldn’t get out of.
At one point, we came down a steep area to find another car (modern Range Rover) pointed the other way. I couldn’t back out, because it was so steep and winding; he had to back down about 50 yards of the passage to find a side street wide enough to get out of my way.

Further down the hill, we came to this section which was only 6′ side (72″). We pulled in our side mirrors and creeped down the road, brushing by all of the flower pots. Everyone was looking out a corner window to make sure we could get through. We made it without scratching anything up, but everyone was sweaty after it was over.

When I got home later that evening, I looked up the width of my Land Rover – 70.5″. We were worried over nothing.. I had 1.5″ to spare!

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Very pretty town and one I wished we had more time to investigate… Very difficult to get here, unless you have a boat.

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Posted in 2014 UK Summer | 2 Comments

Cotswolds, 04-05 July 2014

July 4, Friday

As usual, this morning Adam got up with the sun.  By the time everyone else wakes up at a decent hour (like 6:15 a.m.) he is itching to get on with his day.  These photos are from the walk he took this morning while he waited for everyone else to get ready.  They are scenes from Stow-on-the-Wold at way-too-early-o’clock. L1005546 L1005548 L1005549 L1005550 L1005555

Today turned out to be a dream come true for me.

We started with Cotswald Farm Park.  As is implied in the name, it’s a park full of farm animals.  The guy who runs it — Adam Henson —  is a BBC star with a show I’ve never seen, but his goal in life is to preserve rare farm animal species and run a place with very humane treatment of the animals, with a hands-on experience available to the public so they can appreciate what life on a farm is like.  I am totally on board. He had several different types of rare sheep.

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Baby meeps! We’ll see them later on in the bottle feeding demonstration. L1005560

Under close supervision, children are allowed to hold baby chickens. L1005567

Goats, begging for alfalfa pellets. L1005570

This cow is being acclimated to the milking demonstration.  She wasn’t ready to be the focus of a crowd of people yet, but was hanging out in a nearby pen.  The milking demonstration was done happily by a nanny goat named Lily. L1005571

Nearby goat getting treats while we wait for the milking demonstration to begin. L1005572L1005574

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This is a quite rare Hebridean sheep.  They have found fossil records of multi-horned sheep going back thousands of years.  Some of them have six horns.  All the sheep here had four … and they looked like something cooked up for a science fiction novel. L1005577

Lily, in the “before” photo of the milking demonstration. L1005578

Lily hooked up to the milking machine.  The guy said it would take more than an hour to milk her by hand, but the machine can do it in less than 10 minutes. L1005579

Shetland ponies. L1005583

The girl standing on the box is giving instructions for the bottle feeding demonstration.  Nobody could hear her over the noise of the sheep, who knew exactly what was about to happen and were very vocal in their excitement. L1005586

Bottle time!!! L1005588 L1005592

Giant “air pillow” for the kids to play on.  Isabella got on here and was hopping around like a maniac.  I forced her off and made her sit on a bench in consideration of her ankle.  One wrong landing and we’d end up in the hospital for sure, and our trip would be over.  She grumbled, but didn’t argue too much.  She’s stuck in a limbo between being a little kid and a grown-up.  Here are Holden and Josie enjoying their fully-functioning ankles.

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Eventually I look pity on her and we reached a compromise:  she could roll around on the air pillow as long as she didn’t stand up.

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Me feeding one of the four-horned Hebridean sheep.  She was so gentle and sweet!

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After the farm, we headed to a nearby town for lunch and a wander-about.

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Josie’s feet STINK.  This is the first evidence.  Long after this photo was taken and we were headed back to our house, someone took their shoes off the car and I said, “Oh, good heavens!  Whose feet stink?”  Josie’s.  She was forced into the bathtub the minute we got back.

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We just happened to pass a place called Birdland.  There was NO WAY I wasn’t going in there.  It was pretty much the highlight of my trip so far, which is really saying something after a morning of holding baby chicks and bottle-feeding lambs. At Birdland, we were treated to an amazingly good penguin feeding demonstration.  These guys are King Penguins — the only King Penguine flock in England.  One of the 12 penguins here starred as one of Danny DeVito’s henchmen in Batman Returns.

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Southern Ground Hornbill (Africa).  This was a very large bird.

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Isabella, doing her “Blue steel” look.

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More King penguins.

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Pinkest flamingoes I think I’ve ever seen.

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Adam:  At the Bird Park – Here, Holden is actually being naughty. At an earlier store, he bought a small LEGO toy. Brenda wouldn’t allow him to open it up and play with it at the park. She wanted him to direct his attention towards the birds.

I caught Holden sneaking off to a park bench, away from Brenda, to open up the package. The temptation was just too great. He’s looking off to see if Brenda is noticing.

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Back at the house, enjoying the chocolate cupcakes with copious amounts of frosting and sprinkles, left for us as a “welcome” gift by the owners.

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As one might imagine, The 4th of July (or “American Independence”) is not a very big deal over here in England.  We did run across this billboard near our place …. a town full of American tourists.  We’ve heard more American accents here than in any other location.   We’re not sure what “American music” is, though.

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July 5, Saturday 

It’s raining!  We can’t really complain since we’ve lucked into fantastic weather for nearly the entire summer, but we were still bummed when we looked out the window this morning.

We stopped at Hailes Abbey, a ruined Cistercian Abbey founded in 1246.  By 1539, it was basically in it’s current state.  When it fell into disuse, people scavenged the stone for other buildings.  They have a really neat site set up, though, with informative plaques scattered about that really let you imagine what daily life was like for a monk back in the day.

[below] Example of the type of stonework removed from the site to use in other buildings.

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Josie, more interested in catching rain water in her hand than looking at the museum artifacts.

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What’s left of the ruins.

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The monks had very structured days, beginning at 1:00 a.m.  They would get up for prayers, then go back to bed at 6:00 a.m.  Rise again at 8:00 a.m. to start chores.  They were not allowed to speak, save for in one small, cramped room.  There were specific “speaking hours” where monks who needed to discuss something could go to the room and communicate.  It was ONLY for important topics.  No chit-chat allowed.

This long green section was once the dining hall. The monks only ate one meal a day, consisting of beans, vegetables, bread and ale.  (No meat.)  They were not allowed to speak during the meal, which was eaten to stay alive, not for pleasure.  The room was kept cold on purpose, lest anyone get too comfortable.  (There was only one room in the entire building that was heated, aside from the kitchen.)  During the meal, which took about 3 hours, one monk would read out loud from the Bible.

Can you imagine how boring that would be?  I think having to listen to someone read out loud from the same book for three hours every single day for decades would be torture.  I can hardly stand re-reading a book once.

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We went back to Bourton-on-the-Water (name of town — same place we went yesterday with Birdland).  The kids bought some more Legos.  Those little packs were £2 each, which seemed high …. but yesterday Adam got online and discovered those stupid little things are collector’s items and go for $9 each in the States.  So, the kids loaded up.

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Mermaid!

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Bourton-on-the-Water was having a street fair of sorts, it being Saturday and all.  These guys were doing some kind of dance, accompanied by a live accordion player.

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What is a dance without jingle bells on your legs and sticks?

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Festive march through the town.

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Rubber duck race for charity.  It cost £1 to enter, and winner received £5.

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Then we found a curious mama duck with a real live baby.  She was obviously hoping we had treats for her, but we didn’t.

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In what turned out to be the highlight of the day, we did a puzzle maze.  The kids wanted to do this yesterday but it was getting late so we skipped it.  They were all overjoyed that we had another opportunity to do it.  From the front entrance, they all took off, running in three different directions.

It had 14 clues scattered about the maze that you needed to collect and answer correctly in order to figure out the riddle in the middle.  Those smart enough to figure out the puzzle are rewarded with being able to reveal a hidden dragonfly.

The first clue was a flounder.  We were convinced it was a flounder.  Then we found a Buddha.  Then a dollar sign.  We diligently wrote our answers on the sheet provided.

Turns out one needs to be British in order to figure out this maze because even though we technically speak the same language, not all words have the same meaning.   Our clues made absolutely no sense.

As I discovered from google once we got home, a flounder is known as a plaice here in England.  The Buddha was supposed to be a monk.  (Really?  A hugely fat monk?  We just read about how little food they ate because they were into self-deprivation of anything indulgent.  Those guys must have been skeletal.)  The dollar sign (which was pictured with a weird lightning streak) was meant to be “step.”  (?????!!!)

In the end, Adam “solved” the riddle by accident by leaning on a pillar in the center of the maze because he was tired.  It was much like Shaggy and Scooby Doo accidentally finding hidden stairs behind a bookcase.  Lights came on and a giant frog in the center display case opened his mouth to reveal a jeweled dragonfly sitting on his tongue.  We found it … but did we win?

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Back at the house this evening, Isabella convinced the other two to play a board game.  They didn’t like the choices on offer, so they invented their own game using Legos, a monopoly set and a jigsaw puzzle of the British Isles to come up with some sort of “Risk” inspired tactical warfare game.

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Chatsworth House, Stratford-upon-Avon, 2-3 July 2014

July 2, Wednesday

This morning Isabella’s ankle was not much better than it was yesterday, so she elected to stay home and give it one more day of rest.  We loaded her up with food, an ace bandage, and fully-charged computers so she could watch Netflix shows and nurse her injured self.

The rest of us went off to visit a couple of nearby English Heritage sites that we could get into for free.  The first, Wingfield Manor, was a total bust.

The first problem was that, once again, our GPS didn’t recognize the address.  We were able to get pretty close, but then had to start looking for roadside signs again.  We finally spotted one on what looked to be the correct road, but it said, “No Public Access to Wingfield Manor” with an arrow pointing up the hill at the ruins.

We drove a few miles on until we came to a place to pull over.  At this point, Adam keyed in the address a second time, and this time the GPS took it.  We followed it’s directions until it had us turn down a guy’s private driveway, and then it said “Turn left.”  The photo below is the road it was expecting us to drive down:

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We backed out of the guy’s driveway and found a field to park in, and then started walking.  By this time, Adam and I were getting pretty snippy with each other.  I kept saying, “This can’t possibly be the way.  There is no way an English Heritage site would be accessed this way” and he kept staring at the map on his phone and saying in a tight voice, “It says right here on the map that it’s just at the end of this lane!”  Adam won, and we kept walking through the mud and nettles, dodging horse poop and swatting at midges and horseflies.

After passing through a cattle gate, we finally arrived at the ruins.  They were CLOSED.  Now why on earth didn’t they have a sign posted at the original proper drive that said “Site Closed for Repairs” instead of “No Public Access”??  We assumed from “No Public Access” that we just weren’t in the right place.  “Closed for Repairs” would have saved us a whole lot of time and frustration.

Anyway, here is our little peek at Wingfield Manor.

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Now it’s back through the cattle gate and the hike to our car, which is parked in someone’s sheep field.

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The one bright spot — baby horses!!

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Back at the car, Adam keyed in the address of our next destination and off we went.  That also turned out to be a huge bust because the road to it was closed for construction.  There was a long, poorly marked detour, but we were sick and tired of going on wild goose chases. We were starting to feel like we’re cursed.

The third destination (Plan C, by this point) was Chatsworth House.  That is a big tourist draw, so it had well-marked signs and the GPS knew where it was.  We found it with no trouble.  We were starving and dehydrated, though, so we stopped at the Chatsworth Farmer’s Shop and Restaurant for lunch.  As it turned out, the restaurant was a popular place and had a 30 minute wait for a table.

Foiled again!  Feeling dejected, we wandered through the Farmer’s Shop and discovered they sold some really nice-looking food, so we bought a loaf of bread, some cheese, salami, nectarines, olives, and bottles of water.  Lunch was going to be a Skyrim picnic.  We had to rip chunks of bread and cheese off with our hands, which made it feel like a proper medieval feast.  It was delicious and fun.  The day was finally starting to look up.

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Chatsworth House is truly amazing.  It has a long history that is interesting, but for here I’ll be brief:  estate taxes in England are so high that every time the person who owns it dies, roughly 80% of the value of the place is owed in estate taxes.  In order to keep this estate in the family, they’ve had to sell off a whole lot of their assets (artworks, etc.) each time someone dies in order to meet the tax burden.  Today, the family has opened the house to the public, and rents apartments in one wing of it for themselves at fair market value.

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One of several grand staircases.

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The oak paneling in this room came from a German monastery. The room here at Chatsworth was designed/built around it.

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Holden and Josie have been losing teeth like mad all summer.  Josie has already lost two, and Holden has lost one.  He has another hanging on by the tiniest flap of skin.  Chatsworth had a big mirrored wall, so here he is examining his loose tooth.  The veins in his face show up in this photo like he’s a vampire.  I checked his face in regular lighting when we got home and he looks normal.  He showed up in the mirror, so I guess we’re all safe.

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More opulence.

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The estate hosts weddings, work retreats, etc.  I overheard a docent telling a couple of ladies that they make most of their money by renting out their venue to American, German, and Japanese businesses for work retreats at £10,000 per day. (That’s roughly $17,000 per day at today’s exchange rate.) Chatsworth provides the catering, as well.  This is the dining room.  (It takes roughly £4 million to run the estate each year.)

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View of the grounds.  The estate has 102 acres.

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Inside a tree bower.  The light was very low, hence the surreal photo.  I thought it was kind of cool.

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One of their majestic water features.

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That humped-up sculpted green hedge in the center of the photo (below) is the entrance to the maze.  It’s the best maze we’ve ever done.  The plants are in a good shape and you can’t see through them at all.  (In a lot of mazes, the plants are a little threadbare and you can see to the other side.)

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Holden and Josie plotting their maze strategy.  They had to decide if they were going to work together, or make it a competition.  They decided on competition, and as soon as we got to the entrance they each headed off in a different direction.

In the end, Josie got to the center of the maze first … and later admitted that she cheated.  She found a small hole in the bottom of one of the hedges and wiggled through.  Holden was really mad and wanted to claim victory for himself, but that was pretty hollow, too.  Once Josie arrived in the center, she worked her way back (legally) to where we were and showed us the way.  Neither Holden nor I found it on our own, so the whole thing was a scratch.

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And there we are in the middle, waving at Adam from atop a huge stone platform.  L1005470-2

Another magnificent water feature.

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Josie (orange figure) standing in the mist being thrown off by the fountain spray.

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When we got back home, Isabella met us at the door with her foot all wrapped up in bandages and a huge smile on her face.  She can walk again!!!  Not well, but she’s able to get around without crawling or hanging onto furniture and walls.  Hallelujah!  Tomorrow will more or less be a travel day, so she can spend most of it sitting in the car.  We all have our fingers crossed that she won’t be handicapped for too long.  I’m thrilled that she’s not in pain anymore.

Holden is having some trouble, though.  He’s been suffering from what we initially thought was a cold, but now are convinced is a pollen allergy.  We bought some allergy medicine yesterday and it’s worked wonders, so hopefully he’ll be more comfortable now, too.

He also lost the loose tooth.  Well … more accurately, I got tired of him complaining about how loose it was and how he was scared to eat anything for fear of swallowing the tooth … so I yanked it out for him.  He was none too happy, but it solved the problem.

July 3, Thursday

My suitcase has become so heavy that I can’t manage it by myself anymore.  Our packing process when we leave each location is for Adam to load the car while I make a pass through the house to make sure all of our stuff has been collected.  Invariably it hasn’t, and the forgotten items are shoved into my suitcase at the last minute.  Then they are never seen again …. it’s the black hole of suitcases.  Stuff goes in and disappears, and the density of the suitcase increases.  Nobody ever seems to miss the things shoved in there, which leads me to believe that we’re burdening ourselves with stuff we don’t need.  Then again, you don’t need anything until suddenly you do — and then having it makes all the difference in the world.  There is something to be said for being prepared.  So, I will continue to haul about the world’s heaviest suitcase.  One of these days maybe I’ll get around to organizing it and making everyone else claim their stuff.

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Our one big stop today was Stratford-upon-Avon — most famous for being Shakespeare’s birthplace and burial site.  It’s a gorgeous town, and bigger than we expected.

This is the cottage Shakespeare was born in.  The building looks like it’s been restored to it’s original condition in 1564, the year of Shakespeare’s birth.  The house has been made into a museum, but we ended up deciding not to pay to go inside.  The ticket price was pretty steep (more than $80 for a family of five) and it was incredibly crowded.  We peeked in the windows and saw that people were smashed in there so tightly they could barely move.  No thanks.  The kids were really grateful that we decided to just admire this building from the outside.

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As it turned out, we had to do quite a bit more walking today than we anticipated.  We were worried about how Isabella’s ankle was going to hold up, but she exceeded all expectations.  She had to walk pretty slowly and we took quite a few breaks to sit on benches, but mostly she kept up with the pace.

The buildings in Stratford-upon-Avon have been beautifully preserved.

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This is the Church of the Holy Trinity.  Shakespeare is buried here, alongside his wife (Anne Hathaway) and his two daughters and one of his sons-in-law.  His second son-in-law disgraced the family by getting another woman pregnant (and then she died in childbirth) so Shakespeare disowned him.  He’s not buried here.

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Shakespeare’s grave, outlined in the blue cord.  His wife, Anne, is to the left (next to the wall.)

I was surprised to see that Shakespeare was several years younger than his wife.  He was born in 1564 and she was born in 1556.  They married when he was only 18 years old.  She was practically a spinster at age 26!  She gave birth to their first child 6 months after their wedding, which had been a hurried-up affair.  According to the literature at the church, though, a large number of brides went to the alter already pregnant back then and it wasn’t considered a scandal at the time.  “Hand fast” (probationary) marriages were routinely practiced as a precursor to legal marriage.  Shakespeare’s marriage to Anne most likely wasn’t of the shot-gun variety.

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The stained-glass in this church is really nice.  That said, however, they ask a £2 “donation” from every visitor to help maintain the stained glass.  Calling it a donation is a bit of a stretch– there is a lady sitting at a cash register in front of the gravestone, which I found to be just a little bit gauche.  I didn’t like they way they handled it … either charge an entrance fee, or don’t.  Calling it a “donation” and then sticking a sentry with a cash register right in front of his resting place was kind of gross.

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Exterior of the church.

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Typical old buildings in the town.

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By this time, Isabella was starting to over-do it on her foot.  The girls and I headed off to find a walking stick. Holden found several natural sticks in the woods around Shakespeare’s church, but none of them were strong enough (or long enough) to be of much use.  Her ankle was starting to really hurt and she was tired of hanging off Adam’s arm for support.

Adam and Holden went to Starbucks instead and got treats because they hate shopping.

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We finally found a proper walking stick (i.e., old man cane) in a tobacco shop.  Isabella felt like an idiot walking around with a cane, but said it really did help.  She’s planning to use the cane as a prop for future costumes and productions in her drama club, so buying one won’t be a waste of money once her ankle is better.

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Watching her walk around with this thing brings to mind Seinfeld’s Kramer in the episode with the Technicolor Dreamcoat.  (Clip here … one of my favorite scenes.  It’s from the episode “The Wig Master” in season 7.)

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For the next three days we’re staying in the Cotswolds, only 14 miles from Stratford-upon-Avon, but it feels like a completely different area.  Everything in England is so close to everything else in England!

This house turned out to be absolutely awesome in every way.  It’s been newly renovated, so it’s clean and perfect and it’s right in the middle of a fabulous town.  Everything one could possibly need is within easy walking distance.  Adam and I went off exploring the town while the kids elected to stay home and play board games.  Everyone was happy.

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At an antique shop less than half a block from our house, I found a little sterling silver salt cellar and pepperette set.  The pepperette is perfect for storing Holden’s and Josie’s lost teeth until we get home.  (So far, between the two of them, they have lost 4 teeth.  Josie has two more really loose ones, and Holden has one more that is going to come out any day now.)

We also found an incredible deal on a £15 duffel bag to help with my overweight suitcase problem.  It even has wheels and a handle.  It’s bright pink, so once we get it home it will probably end up belonging to one of the girls.

Stow-on-the-Wold, the picturesque little town.

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Posted in 2014 UK Summer | Leave a comment

Wirksworth, 30 June-01 July 2014

June 30, Monday

The house we’ve rented in Wirksworth is only OK, but has a couple of really great perks.  The first is a park with big playground directly across the street, which is fantastic for the kids and for us.  They can go over there and play on their own, leaving the house to Adam and me.  Ahhhhhhh!  Peace and quiet!  They went over yesterday evening and made friends with a little local girl.  She made them promise they would come play again this evening, so they have that to look forward to.

The other bonus is that this house has a kitty!  His name is Jasper and he only has three legs, which for some reason makes him even more endearing.  He spends most of his day outside catting around, but comes home in the evenings.  He spent the night bed-hopping … he at some point slept with all of us.  We love him.

Today we have plans to visit the only remaining blue Police Call box that is of the same type as the Doctor Who TARDIS.  We thought it was just sitting in it’s original location, but it isn’t.  It was rescued and moved to a little town much like Beamish, called Crich Tramway Village and Museum.  It’s a collection of rescued old buildings from around England that have been set up as a small old-timey town.

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The countryside Adam and I walked through yesterday evening.

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We walked until we caught up to some nervous looking cows, then turned around and went back home.

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Jasper, the three-legged cat.

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House down the street from the one we’re renting. I’m not posting pics of our rental because it’s someone’s private home.

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Today turned out to be thoroughly shitty.

First, we had an incredibly hard time finding the Crich Tramway Museum.  Our GPS didn’t recognize the address, so we had to pick something nearby and rely on roadside signs, which were few, and not particularly helpful.  We finally found the right place, but the road to it was closed for construction.  We had to walk more than a mile up a very steep hill to get there.

Once we arrived in the parking lot, hot and sweaty and grumpy, we found out they had an alternate route on the other side of the hill that we could have driven on.  Everyone else there had managed to find it.L1005319

We tried to put a good spin on it …. “It’s great exercise!” but that was sour grapes and everyone knew it.  Anyway, at least we got to see the police call box.  It’s the only original one left in the world that’s the same as the one used in Doctor Who.  The tour guide pointed it out and sighed, “And NO, it’s not bigger on the inside.”  I’m guessing he’s thoroughly sick of hearing that question and now just heads it off at the pass.

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They also had another rescued old telephone booth.

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Working antique tramway car.

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That green thing was a station clock used for the trams.  Each tram operator had a key with his identification number on it, and when they pulled into the station, the operator would stick his key in that lock and turn it.  Inside the machine, a piece of paper was pressed into the side of the key, embossing it with the Tram number and the time.  That’s how they kept track of their schedules.

The street lamp is also a rescue from a bygone era.  I don’t remember what he said about it.

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“Hello?  Doctor?”

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A bride having her wedding photo shoot.

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Holden having yet another problem with his shoe.

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Old water fountain.  They used to be quite a bit more stylish.

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Aside from the police call box, the museum was kind of a dud.  It might have been really interesting for a tramway enthusiast, but there wasn’t much else to see.  It was a pretty small venue.

The walk back to our car was more pleasant because it was all downhill.  We found these horses and I just happened to have an apple in my bag.  Josie really, really wanted to feed apple bits to the horses but was scared of getting bitten by accident.  I showed her the proper technique.

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She was still skeptical.  The horses were really excited about the apple and doing a bit of aggressive shoving to make sure they got their fair share.

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The forecast was for 40% chance of rain, and the sky darkened up quite a bit after lunch, but it never did rain.  The weather was pretty good all day, and even got a little on the hot side.  That was nice.

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Some guy’s brand new mansion.  That whole thing is one property.

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Our next stop for the day was Haddon Hall.  It’s still a private residence for Lord Edward Manners (brother of the Duke of Rutland), but parts of it are open to the public and it’s been used in a whole bunch of movies, including The Princess Bride.

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Holden surveying the domain.

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I thought the interior was fascinating.  It was still furnished with original items.  That tapestry hanging on the wall (below) was a gift to the owners of the house by Henry VIII.  “It has been described as “the most complete and most interesting house of [its] period”.”

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This plaque was in the kitchen.  I had no idea they used to put dogs on big hamster wheels to turn the meat spits.  This is where the expression “It’s a dog’s life” came from.  (And not specified, but maybe “worked like a dog” came from something like this, too?)  I love the part of this sign that reads, “Several dogs would be worked in shifts of about an hour.  The dogs were very conscious of the time they had been working, and if not relieved at the appropriate moment, would leap out of the wheel, and force one of the other dogs to take their place.  They could be quite nasty if made to work when they thought they should not.”  I’m glad the dogs were able to stand up for their rights, even if just a little bit.IMG_2537

Adam proving he is also on this trip.  That mirror was ancient and framed in red tortoise shell.

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The long hall, built so that Victorian ladies and gents could go for walks without exposing their skin to the sun or their fancy clothes to the rain.  Victorians were obsessed with the health benefits of regular walking.  Sometimes they got things exactly right.

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Gardens outside the long hall.  (The long hall is those big windows.)

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Josie sitting in a little picnic nook.

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Pretty fountain.

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And then everything fell completely apart.  Isabella was running around in the garden and tripped over a stone edging piece around the grass.  She injured her ankle so badly she couldn’t even hobble over to a bench to sit down … and we’d parked nearly 1/2 mile from the entrance of the castle.  She was never going to make it.  Adam went to find someone in charge to find out what we could do.

They sent out a docent who had first-aid training to examine Isabella’s ankle.  The docent, Polly, didn’t think it was broken and probably didn’t need an ambulance or paramedic attention, so they arranged for Adam to be able to drive our car onto the property to pick Isabella up, and they gave us directions to the nearest hospital.

We are all devastated.  I’m worried sick because my baby is injured and nothing else matters.  She’s vulnerable, in pain, embarrassed, and scared.  I’d trade places with her in a heartbeat if I could.

Our plans for the next few days, at the very least, are totally ruined.  We were planning to go to Alton Towers, the biggest theme park in the UK, tomorrow.  The kids have been looking forward to it for weeks, and to be honest, so have I.

We came back to the house and Isabella is laying on the couch with her ankle elevated.  It hasn’t swelled too much, so we’re waiting until tomorrow morning before deciding on whether or not we need to go get x-rays.  Isabella really didn’t want to go to the hospital and thinks resting it will be good enough.  If she still can’t put any weight on it in the morning, we’ll head over to the urgent care.

So, our plans for tomorrow have been scrapped and we’re going to hang out at the house for a day.  There is a Land Rover mechanic right down the street from our house, so Adam is going to take our car over tomorrow and have the oil changed.  He also wants to find a car wash.  We may or may not end up spending some time at the hospital.

Thank goodness for the park across the street — at least Holden and Josie aren’t trapped in the house.

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Last picture of the day … Isabella in agony on the ground.  Thankfully we were able to bring the car pretty close to this spot and carry her to it.  The staff at Haddon Hall were exemplary … polite, helpful, professional, and caring.

 July 1, Tuesday

We woke up this morning to find a sheep in our back yard.  She had somehow jumped over or crawled under the fence and was happily eating weeds right next to this guy’s vegetable garden.  I guess the sheep see those fences as merely suggestions.

Isabella’s ankle looks and feels quite a bit better this morning.  She is desperate for it to heal enough that we can still go to Alton Towers tomorrow.  We either go tomorrow or we don’t go at all … we’re leaving the area on Thursday morning and already have the next house lined up, so no changing it now.  She hopped down the stairs and said it doesn’t hurt to hop anymore — yesterday, the jarring movement was enough to cause pain.  Then she stood on it in the kitchen and was able to put her weight on it, so we’re pretty sure we don’t need to go in for x-rays today.  If it was broken, I don’t think it would have improved that much overnight.  She also said it no longer hurts when she’s just sitting around …. another big improvement.

We are all breathing a big sigh of relief.  It looks like she’s going to be OK in a few days’ time without needing medical care.  Last night Adam and I were making tentative contingency plans for going home early.  If she had broken it and needed a cast and crutches, our trip would be over.  England is NOT handicap accessible.  Everything is made of uneven stone that’s been in place for 1000 years.  It’s gorgeous and historic and incredibly cool … but pretty much only for people who can walk.

I love the UK, which is probably fairly obvious to anyone paying attention to how many times we’ve managed to come over here in the past 4 years.  London is my favorite city in the world, bar none.  However, there are some things they do here that are weird/don’t make sense.  Last night Adam revealed that he’s been keeping a list, so my writing about it here is probably stealing his thunder, but I don’t have much to do right now.  It’s a staying-in day.

1.) I’ve already mentioned their aversion to top sheets on the beds.  This phenomenon has continued to play out in every single house we’ve rented.  You get the fitted sheet and a bulky comforter — nothing else.  It’s weird.  They sell blankets all over the place, so why do they make their beds this way?

2.) Nearly every bathroom has the light switch on the wall outside the bathroom.  You have to remember to turn the light on before you go in.  We thought this was a consequence of retrofitting electricity into really old buildings, but we’ve noticed this light switch placement is on all the newly constructed and newly renovated places, too.  Why?  Also, they almost never have ventilation fans.  The few that do also put the operating switch outside the bathroom.  That means if you work up quite a stink during your bathroom visit, and didn’t plan ahead on making the stink, you have to open the door and search for the fan switch which lets all the embarrassing stink cloud out into the hallway.  It seems like such an easy thing to put those switches inside the bathroom itself so you can use them while in there.

3.) Washing clothes.  This is probably my biggest beef with the way they do things in the UK.  First of all, the washing machines tend to be very, very small.  It’s hard to wash the clothes for a family of 5 with loads that only hold a couple of shirts and a pair of jeans.  It makes sense to have small machines in tiny houses, like the city apartments where space is hard to come by, but the places with big, grand laundry rooms also have the tiny capacity washing machines.  It seems to me like it would save more water and energy by being able to wash fewer, larger loads.  My machine at home holds 5 times what these do here, and as a result I only have to run the machine at home 1/5th the number of times.  Maybe there is some magic mathematical thing going on here that I don’t know about, like these small machines use 1/20th the water and energy or something — don’t know, and really don’t care.  These small-capacity machines suck.

4.) Which brings me to the dryers.  Usually there isn’t one.  Occasionally there is, and they are as bad as the washers.  The all-in-one units don’t do a good job of either washing or drying, so there’s that.  And the stand-alone dryers don’t vent to the outside of buildings.  I think in the US it’s in the building codes that dryers must vent to the outside, but here they have condensing dryers.  These machines have a reservoir that collects all the moisture from your laundry, and you have to empty it out after every load.  Not only is this inconvenient, but they don’t dry as well, either.  The clothes are always still slightly damp, no matter how long you run the machine, and the dryers all have a slightly mildewy smell that is gross.  Maybe that’s why everyone is still using the outdoor clothes lines?  (The one exception to this rule was the dryer out in the spider shed in Inverness … that one got so hot you couldn’t touch the clothes for a few minutes and had to leave the door open for a cooling-off period.  The clothes were not only dry, they were practically desiccated.  How could that thing not have been a fire hazard?  Maybe that’s why it was out in the spider shed.)  I simply do not understand why folks in the UK put up with these terrible laundry facilities. It seems like such an easy thing to fix.

5.)  The garbage bags are all about 1/4th of a millimeter thick, and they rip if you merely look at them wrong.  They have about the thickness and strength of kleenex.  The garbage is always leaking out, and I’m constantly having to double-or-triple bag all the rubbish just to get it to the outside bin without ruining the floors.  I think this is a concession to environmentalism, which is good and I applaud their dedication to minimize carbon footprints, but it doesn’t really help if you have to use twice as many bags and then use cleaning products to take care of the mess they invariably leave behind.  I miss garbage bags that actually hold the garbage in.

6.)  Oven gloves.  They look like this …

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… and they are terrible.  They combine the worst elements of three different things:  the anti-dexterity of a flat pot holder, the range-of-movement limitations of handcuffs, and the awkward handling of a kitchen towel doing double-duty as an oven mitt because you can’t find anything else to use.  I hate these things.  They are one of the worst kitchen inventions ever.  They have also been the only type of oven mitt in every single house we’ve visited.  I know for a fact that British stores sell the good kind of oven mitts because I see them for sale all the time, and have even purchased a couple as souvenirs on previous trips.  Why are all these English homeowners dedicated to these horrible oven gloves??  They are the worst.

Having listed all my complaints, I will now point out what they do in the UK that is far superior to what we do in the USA.

1.)  FOOD.  I can’t go on long enough about how much better their food supply is.  From what little research I’ve done, this is a result of their having much stricter laws in place about what is allowed in their food supply.  For example, tea:  the UK has far, far higher standards about the levels of pesticide residue that is allowed on imported tea.  Who gets the tea that doesn’t pass the UK’s rigorous standards?  We do.  The unacceptably contaminated tea rejected by the UK is sold to the US market.

This goes on and on and on.  Their fruit and produce is so much better it’s impossible to describe; you’d have to taste it to believe it.  The strawberries and peaches and grapes are sweeter, the carrots and greens have deeper, fresher and more complex flavors.  Eating here is kind of like doing for your tastebuds what taking out a pair of ear plugs does for your hearing.  Everything is so clear and sharp and gloriously deep and complex.  I didn’t know food could taste this way.  It’s also far healthier than the produce we get at home.

I also believe that restaurants don’t use pre-packaged food like they do in most US restaurants.  I am convinced that restaurant food in the US contains a whole lot of chemicals, and there is really no way of knowing what you’re eating.  Breads and baked goods are especially chemical-laden.  I don’t think that is case here.  Last summer on our trip through the US, we all felt bloated and kind of icky the entire time, no matter how carefully we tried to eat.  That has never once happened to us in the UK after four years’ worth of trips. (This has also been the case in every other country we’ve visited.  The whole entire world has higher quality food than we do.)  In any case, the food in the UK is just BETTER.  Higher quality, cleaner, better standards for products intended for human consumption.

I know that my conservative friends will not like what I say next, but I think this is exactly the kind of thing a government should be used for.  Food producers NEED regulations.  Consumer behavior is unable to address this problem.  For one thing, there are too many instances where a consumer is unable to find out where the food has been sourced.  How is a consumer to know what levels of pesticide residues are allowed in things like imported tea?  Those guidelines need to be MUCH stricter.

For another thing, most people don’t know (or care) enough about nutrition to do this research.  So, people continue buying crappy, chemical-laden products that are making us all fat and sick.  When it comes to food, I think it’s pretty clear that humans, in general, are very, very bad at making good decisions, for a whole variety of reasons — ranging from weak will-power, to ignorance, to lack of money and/or availability of high-quality goods.

I think that by demanding much stricter limitations on what chemicals are allowed in foods on the production/importation end, even if people still want to eat “bad” foods, they will get a much lighter chemical load.  I think this would likely result in an overall healthier populace and lower health-care costs in the long run.  As they say over here, “Every little helps.”   It’s worked here in the UK … it would work in the US, too.

2.) This one fits under the food category also, but I’ll give it a separate line item:  cream.  They use Jersey cows for a lot of their milk and cream, and it’s so good!  Jersey cows produce less milk per cow than Holsteins, which is the most common dairy breed in the US, and this higher production is probably the reason US farmers elected to focus on Holsteins.

The Jersey milk has a higher butterfat content which produces a much richer milk.  (It’s also higher in calcium and protein than Holstein milk.)  The cream and butter from this milk is unbelievably tasty.  My grandma used to bake the best cinnamon rolls in the world (so I’m told … I never got any!) but quit making them because she could no longer get Jersey cream in the US.  According to her, the cinnamon rolls were simply not worth the effort without the Jersey cream.  Yes … it’s that good and makes that much of a difference.  With the amount of cattle land we have in the US, why aren’t some farmers specializing in Jersey herds?  I’d think they could sell that stuff at triple the price of our heavy whipping cream and still have a hard time keeping up with demand.

3.) Sunscreen.  (Fair warning:  this is going to be another slam on the US government, specifically the FDA. I’m not particularly happy with the US FDA.)

The three most safe and effective sunscreen chemicals (aside from zinc oxide, which is a mineral) are Tinsorb S, Tinsorb M, and Mexoryl SX (also known as emcapsule.)  They are especially effective against long-wave UVA rays, which are the ones that cause aging and cancer.

The FDA has approved none of these for the US market, although they are widely available in every other country on the planet.  The reason (from the admittedly small amount of research that I am able to do on the internet) is that the (French) L’Oreal corporation has a patent on at least one of these drugs.  No US pharmaceutical companies are allowed to make them or use them in their products.  Therefore, US companies successfully lobbied the FDA to simply not approve those drugs for the US market.  Problem solved.  They don’t lose their US marketshare because nobody can sell products with those chemicals in them, and the US consumer gets screwed out of a superior product.

This kind of unholy alliance between capitalist interests and the US government is a huge problem.  I think government should be for the people and assume the role of referee or umpire — an official who watches a game or match closely to enforce the rules and arbitrate on matters arising from the play; the entity in charge of making sure everyone plays by the rules, and making sure that the rules are fair.  The good of the people should always be put well ahead of what is good for businesses if there is a conflict of interest between the two.

I think the bottom line is that we’re getting poorer food and poorer sunscreen (and probably poorer other things, as well) because food and pharmaceutical/cosmetic companies want it that way, and our government caters to corporate interests rather than consumer needs.

Anyway, I always stock up on the good sunscreen when I’m out of the US.

3.)  There are precious few “No Trespassing” signs in the UK.  They are a nation of pleasure walkers and hikers, and pretty much all land — privately held or national — is fair game for walking.  As long as you don’t bother the animals or poke into people’s gardens or windows, you can go wherever you want.  There are “public foot path” signs all over the place.  You will have to hop over sheep fences every once in a while, but the beautiful English countryside is available to everyone to enjoy.

4.) Scotland, in particular, wins for friendliest people in the entire world.

5.) As I mentioned in another post, the UK has done a fantastic job of keeping out the big box stores that kill local individuality.  It makes for a much more interesting country to tour through.

6.) The incredible recorded history found here.  It really underscores how very young the US is.  As far as countries go, we are still in the snot-nosed adolescent stage.  I start wincing when I hear Americans talk about the United States being the best country in the world because we simply have not stood the test of time yet.  European history dates back to the BCs, and China has a culture more than 8,000 years old …. ours is 250 years old.  It’s too soon to declare our government/way of life a grand success.  So far it’s pretty good … but lets check back in around 2776 or 3776 to see how our Grand Experiment is holding up before we insist that our way of doing things is the best in the history of the world.

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Later this afternoon:  Isabella’s ankle swelling has gone down quite a bit and she can hobble around over short distances.  We have decided to alter our itinerary a bit.  At the end of July, we have to go back to Edinburgh for our flight back home and can make another pass through this area.  We will try to do the Alton Towers amusement park in a couple of weeks.

Tomorrow we will leave Isabella home by herself (we are in a particularly safe area) while the rest of us go visit some of the local National Trust sites.  We bought the special passes and now can get into all of them for free.  Isabella doesn’t mind missing those things, and the rest of us won’t be stuck in the house.  The following day will mostly be traveling to our next location, so she should get a good 4 days of resting her foot.  Hopefully she’ll be walking more normally by Friday.

Posted in 2014 UK Summer | Leave a comment

Lake District, England 27-29 June 2014

June 27, Friday

Some photos of the converted barn duplex we’re renting.  The right side is the one rented out; the owner lives on the left.

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View of back yard.

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It’s right in the middle of farm land.

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View out the living room window, and Holden doing his favorite thing … ignoring fabulous views in favor of playing games on his iPad.  He’s not allowed on it during the day, so as soon as we get back from our daily activities and settle in for the evening, he hits it hard.

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The owner baked us fresh scones, with little pots of cream, jam, marmalade, and butter.

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We had planned to spend the morning doing a treetop adventure, but when we got there discovered you have to make advance reservations.  They didn’t have space for us, so we bought tickets for tomorrow morning.  We needed a Plan B for the day, so we drove to nearby Bowness-on-Windermere to wander around.  It’s a resort area on Lake Windermere and a big tourist draw.

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Time for tea and cakes.

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Down by the water we found birds.  Of course we had to stop.  In this photo, Josie has no food for them, but is holding out her hand in hopes that she can trick one of them into getting close.  It didn’t work.  The birds are pretty savvy.

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That boat had a live brass band playing music.  It created quite a festive atmosphere.

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In this photo, up in the corner you can see a man in a red shirt giving Josie bird food.  He was the nicest guy.  He had a big bag of bird seed and shared it with the kids.  They got to feed birds for a good 20 minutes because of him.

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Then a tourist boat full of Asians docked.  They were really pushy and chased off (literally!) all the birds.  They ran right into the flock like 2-year old kids and tried to catch them.  It ruined everyone’s good time.  Then this woman (photo below) spotted Holden and grabbed him to be her “Look!  A real live English boy!” picture.  She didn’t speak English and didn’t bother with niceties like asking permission, but Holden was a really good sport about it.  Adam was sitting on a bench next to an English lady who had been chatting with him and knew perfectly well that Holden was American and not English.  She was cracking up over the whole spectacle.

I missed it all, because, as you can see, a swan had my full attention.  (That’s me hunkered down in the grey coat and wool hat.  This swan let me groom her feathers, so I was obliging.)

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The tourist group moved on, and the birds came back.

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Another example of how these tourist groups travel around in herds.  If you love crowds, then a tour just might be for you — you get to travel with your own mob.  You get to do everything in a crowd.

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Street scene in Kendal, a town on our way back to the barn cottage.  They have a big pedestrian mall that was fun to walk down.  We stopped here for a late lunch.

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Kendal has an old chocolate factory.  It’s a tea room and shop now (no getting to see the facility) but we were able to buy some little treats.  Three chocolate hedgehogs and one chocolate mouse.  They were pretty good, but nothing holds a candle to the chocolate available in Switzerland.

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June 28, Saturday

At 4:00 a.m. Josie woke me up.  “I can’t sleep because a sheep is baaing right outside my window.”  I told her to go lay down and close her eyes and try to rest anyway.  About ten minutes later, she padded back in.  “Now there’s a whole bunch of them, plus chickens.  I can’t sleep.”

Such is farm life!  Animals get up with the sun and want fed.  Sheep baaing, cows mooing, roosters crowing, crows cawing, songbirds singing … it all begins at 4:00 a.m.  It’s really loud, too.  I don’t mind the animals noises, but it ruined Josie’s morning.  What did ruin my morning was Josie repeatedly coming into my room to complain about it.  The final straw was when she poked my arm and said, “Wake up, Mama!  Are you awake? I’m going to use your bathroom because I don’t want to wake Holden up by flushing the toilet in our bathroom.”

“Just use your bathroom and don’t come in here again!”  She didn’t, but I don’t think either of us ever went back to sleep.

We had reservations at 10:00 a.m. for the Treetop Trek.  They’ve built “elements” between the trees — each element is a different type of wobbly bridge or tightrope, etc. — the kind of things Indiana Jones would have to use to cross deadly ravines.  You are harnessed to an overhead cable so you can’t fall, but it’s still really scary to climb around up there.

Here we are getting our harnesses on.

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Starting out with the first (and easiest) element.  This picture doesn’t show how high up we were.  The lowest elements were 5 meters (16 feet) above ground, and the highest ones were 17 meters (55 feet) up.  IMG_2476

Isabella about to tackle one of the wobbly bridges.

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Tightrope crossing.  Those ropes hanging down like vines were your only means of trying to stabilize yourself.  Alternatively, one could attempt a Tarzan swinging crossing, but that was so tough nobody could do it.

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Bad photo quality taken with an iPhone, but here is me making that same crossing.  Josie is standing on the platform in front of me.

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Next bridge: ropes and logs.  Josie is in the middle. You have to look closely.

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The trek concludes with “the epic 250m Triple Zip wire.”

After the adventure, it was time for lunch in nearby Ambleside.  We’ve noticed in the photos that Josie looks like this in a lot of restaurants.  Waiting for food is the most boring part of her day.

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Walking around Ambleside.  There is no shortage of stone in England, it seems.

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Stott Park Bobbin Mill was built in 1835 and is the only remaining bobbin mill left in England.  It closed in 1971 when industries shifted from using wood to using plastic for things like bobbins.  The mill was saved by the Department of Environment and was turned into a working museum in 1983.  All the old machinery is still used for demonstrations.

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This mill was originally powered by water, then switched to steam, and then eventually electricity.

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Walking around the grounds.

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The kids were given an opportunity to try a boring machine (as in a machine that bores holes in wood) that was operated by two people:  one person operating the spinning bit and wood (Isabella) and the other turning the hand crank to power it (Holden.)  This proved to be so difficult they couldn’t even get the bit close enough to the chunk of wood to start the boring process.  Their chunk of wood remained hole-less.

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Time for dress-up in old-timey clothes!  The logs behind Josie are cut and stacked to dry.  They take about 12 months to get dry enough to work with.  This mill utilized child labor, mostly orphans, starting around age 8.  They lived in a big dorm building on the property.  They were paid wages, but the curator said “It wasn’t nearly enough to live on.”  Kids did pretty much every job that didn’t require a grown man’s strength.

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We have a photo almost exactly like this from almost exactly one year ago.  I was braiding Isabella’s hair at the Grand Canyon last summer.  She was a lot shorter then.

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Trying on hats.

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Drying wood, and big baskets used to collect and transfer the bobbins at various stages of progress.

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Lathes.  These were so dangerous to operate that only adults were allowed to work them.  Workers had to keep track of how many bobbins they produced in a shift because they were paid by the piece.  Workers were responsible for maintaining their machines, and if one broke down they had to fix it and lose a day’s wages in the process.  There was a blacksmith forge on the premises and workers had to learn that trade, as well.  This was a very high-paying job that was much sought-after.  The positions only became available when someone died, because men who were lucky enough to get a lathe position never gave it up.  An apprentice may have to wait 30 years for his chance.

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Just a small pile of shavings generated during demonstrations of one of the lathes.  During peak production, they had to keep the doors open at all times because the fine dust was highly flammable and could explode from a mere static charge.  (This happened to other mills in the area, but never this one.)  That made for very cold working conditions in this building.  The men would let the shavings pile up to their waists for warmth.

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Josie and the other little girl on the tour were selected to demonstrate how the finished bobbins were cleaned.  When they arrive on the finishing floor, they are covered in sawdust.  The mill employed little kids (7 and 8 year olds) to clean them.  A work shift was 12 hours.

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A selection of products made in this very mill over the years.

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As we were leaving the Bobbin Mill, Holden remarked, “That was actually pretty interesting.”  Success!!

Time for another tea/treat break.  We found a really neat hotel called The Swan that had a tea room and tables right on the river.  The kids were feeling grateful that they don’t have to work 12 hours a day for slave wages and live in an orphanage.

Adam is reading a book called The Time Traveller’s Guide to Medieval England by Ian Mortimer.  In it, Mortimer points out that the median age of an English citizen today is about 38 (half younger than 38, half older.)  In the 14th century, the median age was 21.

[excerpt]  “This preponderance of young people leads to social differences in every community and field of activity. The average man or woman in the medieval street has seventeen years’ less experience to draw on in every aspect of their lives.  He or she has many fewer elders to ask for advice.  When you consider that societies with youthful populations are more violent, tend to be supportive of slavery, and see nothing wrong in brutal combats in which men fight to the death for the sake of entertainment, you realize that society has changed fundamentally.”

“It is generally said that medieval men are in their prime in their twenties, mature in their thirties and growing old in their forties.  This means that men have to take on responsibility at a relatively young age.  In some towns citizens as young as twelve can serve on juries.  Leaders in their twenties are trusted and considered deserving of respect…. When people declare that ‘children have to grow up so quickly these days’, they should pause and reflect on this fact.  Medieval boys are expected to work from the age of seven and can be hanged for theft at the same age.”

Basically, the entire society was just a bunch of uneducated kids with no wisdom, no supervision, and an expectation of never living much past 50 years in the best of circumstances.  That actually does explain somewhat why society was so brutal back then.

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This duck and her adorable babies swam up and begged for crumbs of our scones.

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Massive cups of hot chocolate for the kids, with a tower of marshmallows and cream, and decorated with malted milk balls.  They all three declared it the best hot chocolate they’ve had this summer.  Down in the corner, my “treat.”  It was roasted beets with lentils and mustard, garnished with garlic sticks.

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Isabella back at the house, faithfully keeping up with her friends.  She doesn’t want to miss anything while she’s away.

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 June 29, Sunday

The sheep in the back field that “baaaaaa” into Josie’s window each morning.

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Today was mostly a driving day, but we did stop in Castleton for lunch and to visit Peveril Castle.  This neat little pub served a very nice rabbit pie.

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Picture of Adam having fun.  He always looks like this, but swears he’s enjoying himself immensely.  We have a hard time believing him.  If you painted him green and put trumpets on his ears, he’d be Shrek.

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Peveril Castle is at the top of a very steep hill.  That made it strategically a great location because they had 360° views of the entire valley and were hard to attack.  It was a very arduous walk, though.  Even the people in clearly great shape were huffing and puffing by the time they got to the top.

This castle was supposed to protect the King’s forest holdings, but from I gathered, it was more or less a place for petty tyrants with no supervision or accountability to extort money from farmers and peasants, and in general make life a nightmare for the folks living in the valley.  There was a huge area walled off in front of the castle for confiscated sheep — meaning that whomever was in charge of the castle could just go into fields and steal sheep whenever they felt like it.  They would either claim it was for “taxes” (best scenario for the farmer) or make up some violation on the farmer’s part.  That was way worse and could end in a farmer’s entire property being confiscated, and sometimes jail time.

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Back in 1988, my family took a trip across the United States that became known in the family lore as The Trip From Hell.  My dad’s chief complaint was that my brother and I didn’t enjoy visiting all the historic Civil War battlefields and museums.  By the time we’d seen a dozen of them, Brian and I started electing to sit in the car rather than trek across yet another field to look at a pile of canon balls.  My dad was incensed.  He still talks about how ungrateful and stupid we were to this day.

Adam and I are getting a taste of that medicine on this trip.  We hiked up that great hill to this castle that was originally built shortly after 1066 by William the Conquerer’s best buddy (William Peveril) and the kids decided to sit on a bench.  The castle is right behind them and here they sit, bored and whining about being tired.

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And when I say the castle is right behind them, I mean it’s right behind them.  They could barely be troubled to turn their heads to look at it, much less walk up the hill and poke around in the ruins.  Holden is even taking an old man nap.  Unbelievable.

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Adam and I went up in the tower and spied on the kids from above.  There they are, still sitting on a bench.

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This valley directly behind the castle is called Cave Dale.  It was the filming location for the scene in The Princess Bride where Buttercup shoves the Dread Pirate Roberts down a hill and realizes he is really her beloved Westley.  (Clip here.)

We didn’t know this tidbit until we got to our house later in the afternoon and found it mentioned on the internet.  We didn’t do the Cave Dale hike, so we’re considering going back in the next few days.  Isabella wants to (safely!) roll down the hill and yell “As you wiiiiiiish!”  Now she’s interested.  Context makes a world of difference!

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Some of the original stone facing is still there.

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Back in town, we found a Land Rover in rougher shape than ours.  People have clearly been living in it for weeks.

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Posted in 2014 UK Summer | 1 Comment

Blantyre, Scotland; 25-26 June 2014

June 25, Wednesday

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Our lovely Glasgow apartment

Adam and I took another early morning walk around Glasgow while the kids were getting ready to go out.  This building is part of the University of Glasgow.

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More buildings of classrooms.  They are all gorgeous.

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“Dr. Livingstone, I presume?”

Today we visited the birthplace and childhood home of David Livingstone.  He was something of a rock star Indiana Jones-type figure in 19th century Victorian Britain for his exploration of the African continent.

He started life very, very poor.  His family worked in a cotton factory and lived in a tiny one-room tenement apartment.  David was the second of seven children, so there were a lot of people crammed into that one room.  He started working for the cotton mill when he was 10 years old, and was one of the lucky ones not to have to begin his career at age 5.

Fortunately for him, though, he enjoyed two important advantages:  his dad was a good father and all-around decent man (many weren’t), and the guy who owned the mill thought it was important for the children of workers to get an education.  He hired a teacher and built a school room for kids to attend in the evenings after the day’s work if they wanted to.

David took full advantage of his chance at an education, and was fully supported in doing so by his family.  He scrimped and saved enough money working in the mill to attend University by the time he was 23, at a time when less than 10% of mill workers’ children could read or sign their own names.  His parents not only were willing to sacrifice the loss of David’s wages for all those years, they put as much of their own money aside to help him as they could.

Livingstone was an intensely religious guy and drawn to the sciences, which his dad wasn’t too keen on because he thought religion and science were mutually exclusive.  He changed his mind, though, and encouraged David to become a doctor when David expressed an interest in becoming a Missionary.  Missionary settlements desperately needed doctors.  David originally had his eye set on China, but then the Opium Wars started up in 1839 and he decided to go to Africa instead.

He spent 30 years (off and on) in Africa and only managed to convert one person to Christianity, so as far as being a missionary was concerned, he was a terrible failure.  He became internationally famous, though, nearly by accident.  He wrote long letters and reports about what was going on in Africa to various government officials and friends back in England, who published his writings in the paper as a regular column (unbeknownst to Livingstone.)  He returned to England after something like 16 years and discovered that he’d become a famous celebrity adventurer while he was away.  People were fascinated by his travels.  (He survived a lion attack, for example, depicted in the statue below.)  I got the sense it was basically a mid-1800s version of a travel blog.

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“The lion leapt on him and, catching him by the arm, shook him ‘as a terrier dog does a rat.’”

Here is the very Bible he carried with him on his travels (the open book at the bottom of the frame.)  He read it cover-to-cover four times on his first excursion.  The other items in this case also were his personal belongings … the boots, coat, compass, etc.

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This was his family’s one-room tenement house.  That bed has a trundle underneath it, and there was an identical set-up on the opposite side of the room.  For anyone counting, that’s a total of 4 beds for a family of 9 people.  That fireplace was their source of heat and also for cooking.  The water had to be brought in by a bucket from a well in the common courtyard, and there were outdoor common latrines, as well.  The building was organized much like a college dormitory, except instead of two roomies per room, it was entire families per room.

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An example of the spinning room.  Children were employed to crawl under that machinery because they were small enough to fit, and it was very dangerous.  They were supposed to tie broken yarn ends back together, and sweep up the yarn dandruff which was highly flammable and needed to be constantly removed.  Children were injured and killed by the moving machinery on a fairly regular basis.  The yarn fibers in the air also caused most of the workforce to have lung and respiratory diseases that lasted their entire lives and contributed to early demises.

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Some more of David Livingstone’s equipment.  He traveled with the microscope, and those wooden cases contained medicines.  He invented a pill to help with malaria … it didn’t prevent or cure it, but helped make it less devastating.  The pills were a combination of quinine and rhubarb extract.  Unfortunately, one of their side-effects was temporary deafness.  (They are in the little pill bottle with the white cap near the bottom of the frame, to the right of the broken arm bone.)

The crooked arm bone is a cast of Livingstone’s arm, made after he died and his body was shipped from Africa back to England for burial at Westminister Abbey.  It took 11 months for his body to make it back, and by the time it arrived the body was so decomposed they had to identify it by his crooked arm.  It was broken by the lion during the lion attack and never healed properly.

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The kids playing in the Discovery Garden outside the tenement house.

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Exterior view of the tenement house.

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Livingstone was a fascinating guy and worth reading about, although I’ve gone on about him enough for now.  This wikipedia entry has a lot of information.

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Next up was Bothwell Castle.  It was built in the 1200s and played a key role in several battles and sieges between the Scots and British in the 1300s and 1400s.

The guy selling tickets was an older gentleman who was clearly a huge history buff.  He gave us a detailed, interesting account of the key historical incidents that happened here.  He also gave the kids a worksheet with a quiz on it.  The answers were scattered throughout the castle.  He asked Holden, “Would you like to do the quiz and win a sticker?”  To my embarrassment and horror, Holden said, “No.  I’m on vacation and don’t really want to learn anything.”  The guy handed him the quiz and a pencil and said, “Well, just in case you change your mind.”

What the kids didn’t know was that I’d purchased some rhubarb rock candy in the gift shop.  They were complaining about “baaaahhhhh, another boring old castle!” so I said, “If that quiz gets completed — and I mean every single question is answered correctly —  everyone gets some candy.  It has to be a team effort though … either everyone gets candy or nobody does.”

Those three knuckleheads had a quick conference and decided trying the weird candy was worth doing a little learnin’ outside of the classroom.

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The kids suddenly interested in completing the quiz.  They read every single plaque and sign.  Incentives work wonders.

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In what turned out to be the highlight of the visit, the curator came outside and offered to show the kids a special, secret room they only use for school field trips and — oddly enough — weddings.  Since we were the only ones there at the moment, he had some extra time.  (I suspect he saw the kids actually doing the quiz, and being a history buff himself, relished the opportunity to share something special to kids who were showing an interest.)

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Suddenly everything was COOL!  They got to hold chain mail (incredibly heavy) and learn that it was merely the undergarment for the rest of the armor.  The guy said, “Every time you see a knight jump up on a horse in a movie wearing all his armor, you will know it’s fake.  Feel this chain mail?  With this on, plus the armor, it was so heavy the knights had to have help getting up on their horses.  They couldn’t run, either. Everything they did was pretty slow, but that doesn’t make for a good battle scene, now does it?”

The little ball of chain mail Josie is holding was so heavy she couldn’t lift it high enough to put it back on the table.

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Trying on an authentic knight’s helmet.  It had tiny slits for seeing through and a few holes for breathing — archers were so skilled they could put an arrow through the eye slits from the back of a moving horse.  The guy scandalized and grossed out the kids when he told them, “The archers used to poop in buckets and then dip the arrow heads in the poop.”  He mimed stringing a bow and dipping the arrow tip in a bucket.  “If the arrow itself didn’t kill the person, the infection from feces probably would.   Aye, they were a nasty bunch.”

(Note Isabella hiding behind Holden making rabbit ears.)

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Real swords.  Those things were heavy.  The ones for this demonstration were really dull (because kids handle them) but the ones used for battle had razor sharp blades.

L1005089Josie trying on the helmet — “It’s so heavy it hurts my shoulders” — and Isabella imagining what the sword would be like sharpened.  (If she took a BuzzFeed quiz “Which Game of Thrones character are you?” she’d totally be Arya Stark.)*

*Update:  This is an actual quiz and Isabella got … ARYA STARK.  I called it!!  (And now she’s mad because we won’t let her watch the show.  We told her she had to read the books first.)

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Holden pretending to pull the sword out of stone, a la King Arthur.

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After that, things took a turn for the more boring.  We were starving and got back to Glasgow ready to eat anything we could find.  The first restaurant we came to was a Persian place that turned out to be pretty bad.  It was expensive, slow, and not very tasty.  0 for 3.  You can’t win ’em all.

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Isabella ran her battery down … that’s how long the wait was.

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By the time lunch was over, it was after 3:00 p.m.  We decided to go back to the apartment and call it a day.

We ate what was left of our food stash — cereal and cheese, mostly — for dinner.  It was better than the Persian food we had for lunch.  Then Adam and I watched two episodes of Orange is the New Black, caught up on some work, and got ready for an early departure tomorrow morning.  We’re heading back into England tomorrow.  Our trip is at it’s halfway point now … half in Scotland and half in England is the plan.

June 26, Thursday

Today was mostly a travel day, but we did make one stop at the Robert Burns Museum and Birthplace cottage.  We saw a painting of this cottage in the Kelvingrove art gallery in Glasgow and thought it would be fun to see it in person.

Robert Burns was really famous in Scotland and England.  They love this guy.  For those not into English poetry, you’ll know him best as the guy who wrote Auld Lang Syne and the  poem “To A Mouse” that John Steinbeck used as the title for Of Mice and Men.

The Brig o’ Doon played a major role in the poem Tam O’ Shanter.

“Having disturbed the eerie gathering of witches in nearby Alloway Auld Kirk, Tam and his horse Meg flee for their lives, reaching the safety of the keystone of Brig o’ Doon in the nick of time. The screaming witches, unable to cross the running water, are left seething with poor Meg’s tail in their knurled clutches as their consolation prize.”  (excerpt from the National Trust of Scotland brochure.)

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The Brig o’ Doon.

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Brig o’ Doon … Isabella running, like always!

Inspired by the poem Tam O’ Shanter, a self-taught Scottish stonemason, James Thom, created these life-sized stone statues of Tam and Johnnie around 1828. 

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Gardens on way to (supposedly haunted) Alloway Auld Kirk.

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Alloway Auld Kirk.  Robert Burns’s dad, William Burns, is buried here.  The back of his gravestone in engraved with an epitaph written by Robert.

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I especially love the last two lines:

The friend of man, to vice alone a foe
“For ev’n his failings lean’d to virtues side.”

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This church was a ruins when Robert Burns was growing up.  It was rumored to be haunted and was the inspiration for Tam O’ Shanter.

“In Burns’s poem … Tam peers through the windows of this creepy, ruined kirk one dark and stormy night, and sees a gaggle of witches dancing to a tune played on the bagpipes by the Devil.  Tam foolishly disturbs the witches and has to flee for his life.”  (excerpt NTS brochure.)

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Near the back of the cemetery was this crypt.  The door was eerily opened.  It didn’t look like a door … it was designed to look like the other panels on the other three sides.  Someone had pushed it open.  The interior was filled with overgrown weeds and plants, bringing to mind The Secret Garden.  It was actually pretty creepy.  Isabella worked up enough nerve to dart inside to get her photo taken.  She tried to make a scary face but couldn’t stop nervously laughing long enough to look serious or terrifying, and then decided she’d been in there long enough.

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The rose gardens behind the cottage Robert Burns was born in (yellow building in the background.)

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We stopped and smelled lots of roses today.

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The birthplace — this 4 room cottage.  The four rooms were the barn, the byre, the spence (parlor) and the kitchen.  The people and the farm animals lived in the same house, on opposite ends.

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The parlor.

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The barn.

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Front of cottage, and as close as we could get to the angle depicted in the painting.

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This mouse sculpture represents “To A Mouse.”  The most famous line is
The best-laid schemes o’ mice an ‘men
Gang aft agley 

It was near this mouse that an elderly man heard Adam talking to the kids and stopped to have a chat.  After checking to make sure we were indeed Americans, his first question was “Did you vote for Obama?”

When a stranger cares enough about a subject to ask something like that point-blank, there is usually a definite right or wrong answer.  You are left with about two seconds to size the person up and try to figure out which answer they want to hear, and then decide if you are going to tell the truth, lie, or try to get out of answering.  Adam decided to straddle the fence: “I voted for him in the first election but not in the second.”

The guy looked surprised and said, “Americans come down this walk every day and I ask all of them who they voted for, and you are the first person I’ve met who voted for Obama! I was wondering how he won the election!”

Adam said, “That surprises me.  Liberals generally tend to be the ones who travel internationally and more than half the country voted for him.”

My thoughts immediately turned to the Geezer Brigade being hauled around on a multitude of tour buses, making their glacially slow way through every historical site in the whole of Scotland.  Elderly people tend to lean conservative, and they have that magical combination of both lots of money and lots of free time to do things like visit the birthplace of Robert Burns.  That’s my guess.

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We spent the rest of the afternoon driving the 103 miles from Robert Burns’s house into England’s Lake District — most famous for Beatrix Potter’s Peter Rabbit.

We have rented a house in the middle of some spectacular farm country.  The house is an enormous old barn, newly renovated into a duplex.  It’s modern, spotless, and (so far, knock on wood!) all the appliances work because they are brand new.  The water in the sinks comes out of one faucet so you can have warm water directly from the tap.  Most of the places we’ve stayed have separate hot and cold faucets, so you either freeze or scald yourself while trying to wash hands, brush teeth, wash your face, etc.  This house even has a dryer!  Tomorrow I plan to do some serious laundry.  It will be heavenly.

The only drawback we’ve discovered so far is the internet connection is really slow.  It’s tough to do much more than check email.

 

Posted in 2014 UK Summer | 2 Comments

Glasgow, 23-24 June 2014

June 23, Monday

Today was pretty much a wasted travel day.  We caught the ferry from Islay over to the mainland at noon, and spent the remainder of the afternoon driving to Glasgow.  Before we left the island, we had about two hours to kill, so we stopped at the Ardbeg Distillery cafe and had tea and fresh scones.

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This next photo pretty much sums up our entire day.

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One thrilling thing:  just a few blocks from our apartment in Glasgow, we drove by a blue Police call box … one of only 8 left in the world.

Before we left Georgia, Adam did some magic mumbo-jumbo to our computers so that when we got to the UK, Netflix would think we were still in the United States and wouldn’t refuse to let us access our account.  The television programming here is pretty bad, so Isabella has been watching Doctor Who most evenings for the past month on her computer.  It’s her new favorite show and she’s obsessed.  Anyway, spotting the blue Tardis-like call box this afternoon put a new spring in her step.  We got into our apartment too late to go do anything tonight, but our first order of business tomorrow morning is to walk over and get a photo with the call box.  It looks slightly different than the Tardis call box, though.

We learned that there are only 8 surviving Police call boxes left, and “Crich Tramway village has the only known surviving Mk2 Metropolitan Police Box in the world. Unlike the other boxes around the country it is neither a replica nor a Glasgow-type box. The Scottish boxes, whilst almost identical to the casual observers have different panels to the Doctor Who type.”

Crich Tramway village is in England near Nottingham, so we’re putting that on the bucket list itinerary and will try to get over there for a picture before the end of our trip.  It’s nice to have goals.

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The apartment we’re in is gorgeous, with high ceilings and a Victorian feel.  The guy who owns it is an antiques dealer and he has appointed the place with all kinds of beautiful treasures.  It looks like a professional decorator has been in here.

It has one major drawback though … there are full-length mirrors everywhere.  Every wardrobe has them, and the bathroom is almost entirely mirrored from floor to ceiling.  The tub/shower enclosure is especially bad, with mirrors on all three sides and very unflattering lighting from one sickly yellow fixture high up on the wall.  While bathing, one is subjected to views of one’s own anatomy that one has no business seeing — and those views go on for infinity.  There is no looking away!  Every bulge, dimple, crease, discoloration and flabby jiggle is revealed.  Christie Brinkley would look like a gargoyle in this bathroom.  Regular people —  like me —  look like the bloated corpses they’re always finding on episodes of CSI.

I took a bath and came out clean in body but foul in mood.  I kept waiting for the mirrors to fog over, but they didn’t.  The one time a fogged-up mirror would be nice, and it doesn’t happen.  I stalked out of the bathroom in a towel and said to Adam, “We’re getting fat.  We have to be more careful about what we’re eating.”

He looked up from his computer, blinked a couple of times, and said, “Excuse me … WE?”

Humph.  It’s hard to eat sensibly when everyone else is getting treats so I was hoping that by saying “we” I’d get a health partner, but Adam refuses to get sucked into my self-loathing spiral.  “Do whatever you want, but don’t drag me into it.  I think you look fine.”

I spent extra time this evening angrily working out with my resistance bands.

June 24, Tuesday

Adam gets up at the crack of dawn, which in Scotland in June is roughly 4:30 a.m.  By the time everyone else wakes up around 7:00, he’s already completed his work, gotten bored, and is champing at the bit to go outside and do something.

This morning it’s raining and we only have one umbrella, so we left Isabella in charge of the kids and went for a walk to orient ourselves in Gasgow and to get Adam out of the apartment before he went nuts.  Nothing was open at 7:30 a.m. but we did get a chance to peer in shop windows and make mental notes on places to visit later in the day.

The Starbucks was open.  We haven’t seen a Starbucks in weeks.  Last summer on our tour through the United States, the second half of the trip started to feel a little monotonous because every town looks pretty much the same.  The physical locations have some character, but mostly you wake up in a Holiday Inn, drive for 8 hours, and go to bed in an identical Holiday Inn 500 miles down the road.  You eat the same dinner at Chili’s that you had in an identical Chili’s the night before, and spend the next day driving down an identical interstate.  Everything has become homogenized.  It’s not all bad; it provides consistency.  You know that every town will have recognizable stores, and you’ll know exactly where to go to get whatever you need.  Character is lost; convenience is gained.

That homogenization has not happened in the UK.  In the United Kingdom, they’ve done a really good job of keeping out the big box stores and chain businesses.  You can still find them, but they are much fewer and farther between.  It maintains regional character and makes each little town interesting and unique.  The downside is that getting rooms and meals is kind of hit-and-miss … some places are charming and fantastic, and others are disappointing.  Finding services can be difficult.  I guess it’s a trade-off.

Anyway, we haven’t seen a Starbucks in weeks, which made finding one here feel exciting.  Adam stocked up on coffee and I bought a Glasgow mug.

Back in the apartment, I started thinking about how we’ve been living out of suitcases for a month and haven’t really felt deprived of anything.

I am a real homebody of a person and love my house … everything in it is exactly the way I want it.  The things I miss about it when we’re on the road are things like knowing exactly where everything is, our own bed, the ability to precisely control the water temperature (surprisingly hard in the houses we’ve been staying in), my reliable washer and dryer, and our pets.  I don’t really miss anything else, even though I love all my “treasures” — family heirlooms, kids’ artwork, paintings and other artwork we’ve collected on our trips, the furniture made by Adam’s dad.  I’d be emotionally devastated if they were lost, but I don’t need those things to be comfortable.

The things I’ve found that truly make daily life more enjoyable and end up buying for myself on almost every extended trip are my own tea mug, good-quality loose tea, and my own bar of Dove soap.  Adam ends up buying a French press, a big coffee mug, and good-quality coffee.  It’s really amazing how just those few luxury items can improve a day and provide a sense of structure and comfort.

The other thing we’d have a hard time living without is high-speed internet access.  Adam needs it for his work, and the rest of us need it for our sanity.  It keeps us connected to the world and entertained.  It’s a revolutionary game-changer, in a truly miraculous way, that people very quickly have started taking for granted.  Nothing else in history has given more people more freedom.

But enough with the Deep Thoughts … on with the day!

Our first stop once we got the kids collected and headed out:

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“Hello, Doctor? Let me in?”

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Isabella and Josie have been watching the show. Holden has not, and declared, “I’m not getting in the stupid Doctor Who picture. Hurry up.”

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We didn’t wrap it up fast enough, so he came over to speed things along.

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This above photo is now Isabella’s wallpaper on her phone, and she’s emailed it to her friends.

 

Riverside Museum is a fantastic place to take kids.  The museum focuses mostly on forms of transportation — buggies, carts, automobiles, boats, bicycles, trains, subway cars, trollies.  The descriptions on each display are aimed at 5th graders, which is the exact right amount of information for me seeing as I’m not particularly interested in transportation much beyond, “Will it get me where I need to go?”

They also, to my delight, focus on the more interesting aspects of travel through the ages, such as the clothes people had to wear while driving the first cars in order to keep bug splatter off their faces, and how Glasgow had the worst tuberculosis outbreak in all of Europe so spitting on the trains was subject to a £150 fine.

The museum is not terribly big, as far as museums go, and kid-friendly so we were able to let the kids wander off on their own.  There were several school field trips being conducted, so our kids wandering around fit right in.  They were thrilled not to be stuck with us, and Adam and I were thrilled that we got to enjoy the museum without having to keep one eye on them at all times.

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One of the early Bentleys.

Nothing is done halfway here.  These are actual taxidermied horses on their replica of a 1900s Glasgow street.

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Authentic cars and shops with goods of the period.

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The car collection wall.  This photo makes them look like models, but they were the real thing.  You can see a man at the very bottom for scale.  My dad would still be in this museum if he’d been with us.

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Outside and for no apparent reason:  misters.

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After the museum, we wanted to walk a loop around down by the River Clyde on the way back into the city center.  It turned out to be a much longer walk than we expected, but still having fun!

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Then it started to be less fun.  Still walking.  Isabella and Holden both developed blisters and we were still miles from where we needed to be.  There isn’t much along this path for tourists.  It’s mostly high-rise office buildings and conference centers.  We were starving by this point but didn’t see any restaurants.  We finally found a tunnel bridge back across the river and into the city center.

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View of part of the University of Glasgow.

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We finally found a place to eat lunch that wasn’t a pub.  It was Thai Siam — as the name suggests, they served Thai food.  The restaurant is very modest-looking and smells strongly of jasmine.

To our surprise and delight, we were treated to an absolutely spectacular lunch, which the kids unanimously declared the single best meal we’ve had on the entire trip.  The lady who runs it kept coming over with extra food and a wave of her hand; “Oh, this is included in your meal.”  The kids were stuffed with every food Thai children love best, and capped the meal off with bananas rolled in shredded coconut and black sesame seeds, then deep fried and served with ice cream.  We had to promise them we’d eat there again tomorrow.  No pictures, but if you’re ever in Glasgow, Thai Siam is a good place to grab a meal.

We had extra food left over from lunch, so we went back to the apartment for a little while to drop it off in the fridge and have a bit of rest.  Isabella and Holden put band-aids on their blisters.  Once we were ready to go again, we headed out for the Kelvingrove Art Museum and Gallery, which is very close to where we’re staying.

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Impressive entrance, with the huge pipe organ.  They play the organ each day at 1:00 p.m., but we missed it.

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This museum had lots of hands-on displays for kids.  This one was all about how to make a mummy.  Wrapping one is harder than it looks.

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They have a fantastic natural history section with lots of animals.  Adam and the kids had to pry me out of this section.  I learned lots of new things; for example, male duck-billed platypuses have venom-filled spikes on their back legs with strong enough poison to kill a dog.  Some shrews have a venomous bite.  I didn’t know there were any venomous mammals at all, and it turns out there are several.  Also, the Kiwi bird has the largest egg-to-body size ratio (1:5) among all birds.  Look at this:  (I got this x-ray photo off the internet.)

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Something cool here … they had a display about ospreys and how they are trying to repopulate them in Scotland.  The photo of the bird on the display was of the exact osprey we saw at Loch of the Lowes in the scientific research station through the telescopes on June 12th.

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Interactive map of Glasgow.

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South American jungle display.  I still have a whole collection of scarlet macaw feathers from when we bred parrots back in 1994-2000.

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Then we enter the painting/art section and the kids suddenly get bored.

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This is a painting of the cabin in which the Scottish poet Robert Burns was born.  The cottage has since been turned into a museum and we’re hoping to visit it on our way to England in a few days.

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Here is how much Holden loves art.

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I loved this hall.  I had to rush through at light speed.  Everyone was tired and had achy feet and backs by this point.

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On the way out of the art museum, I said, “I’m feeling so happy and full of love right now!  We’re all together, everyone is getting along and having fun … we’re living the Good Old Days right now.  When we’re old and decrepit, this is what we’ll look back on and remember.”

After making fun of me for being sappy and sentimental, Isabella and I started talking about memories.  She told me that when she was around 5 years old and about to enter Kindergarten, she overheard me remark to Adam, “Isabella is getting to an age where she’ll start retaining memories for the rest of her life.”  Isabella told me today, “I heard you say that to Daddy and I thought, ‘Cool!  I’ll need to remember this!’ and now it’s pretty much my first memory that isn’t just snippets of visual images.”  You never know what will stick in someone’s head.  I have no recollection of that incident at all, but it certainly sounds like something I’d say.

The last stop of the day was The Chocolate Factory.  The kids all got ice cream cones.

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Sign on the street.  I guess this is good advice in general.  Take note, fellas.

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We walked our feet off today, which felt good after several days of being pretty inactive.  On the islands, we got around mostly by car.

I think I’ll skip taking a bath tonight and save facing the bathroom of horrors for tomorrow morning.

 

Posted in 2014 UK Summer | Leave a comment

Jura and Islay, 21-22 June 2014

June 21, Saturday

Today’s post (mostly) by Adam:

Today we visited the island of Jura – home of Red Deer, a quirky whisky distillery and very, very little else.

Jura is almost 6 1/2 times the size of Manhattan Island, but has a total population of 181.

Save those who grew up in Alaska, it is not often you can find a location that feels so far away from everything else. There is summer ferry service from Islay to Jura, but no access directly from the island to the mainland of Scotland.

To give our stay on Jura a little more purpose, we were on a bit of a quest. It was on Jura that George Orwell stayed to write 1984. He rented a cabin on the far northern tip of the island (more on this here), desiring a location that he said was the “most un-get-attable” in the world.

An excerpt from the link:  

Barnhill, overlooking the sea at the top of a potholed track, was not large, with four small bedrooms above a spacious kitchen. Life was simple, even primitive. There was no electricity. Orwell used Calor gas to cook and to heat water. Storm lanterns burned paraffin. In the evenings he also burned peat. He was still chain-smoking black shag tobacco in roll-up cigarettes: the fug in the house was cosy but not healthy. A battery radio was the only connection with the outside world.

Orwell, a gentle, unworldly sort of man, arrived with just a camp bed, a table, a couple of chairs and a few pots and pans. It was a spartan existence but supplied the conditions under which he liked to work. He is remembered here as a spectre in the mist, a gaunt figure in oilskins.

He chose a cottage that was even more un-get-attable for us. We drove as far as we could on the island (there is only one road that degrades in quality the further north you go) until you finally reach a point where motorized vehicles are banned from proceeding any further. The rest of the way to his cottage (“Barnhill”) would require a 4-mile hike.

We didn’t plan for this – we were already hungry (Holden reminded us of this every 5 minutes) , didn’t have any water, and didn’t see much sense in an 8-mile walk just to look at an old cottage. So, we turned around, defeated, and started looking for any place that might serve some food. This depressed us some, because we enjoy chasing down rabbit holes and seeking out obscure locations, often requiring going to lengths that don’t make any sense. Still, we have our limits and had to let this one go.

Back along the southern part of the island, we did find a small cafe open in the village of Craighouse; we ordered up beef and venison burgers. Afterwards, everyone was feeling back to normal with some food and drink in their bellies.

After visiting the whisky distillery store and wandering around a bit on the beach, we returned to the ferry terminal to make the 10 minute ride back to Islay. By the time we got back to our cottage, it was wine time. We did some laundry, found more food and watched TV until bedtime.

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The little ferry that transports you to/from Jura. Room for 7 cars.

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 Coming over to the island, we were only 1 of 2 cars, the other being the Royal Mail truck.

First glimpse of Jura …

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Lonely little road, and bridge for turning around.

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Swans in the ocean.

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This peacock was right in the road. The girls and I got out to see how close we could get. We got pretty darn close …

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At first he was curious and gave us an intimidating masculine display…

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… then decided maybe we were bad news and he should leave.

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The world’s loneliest phone booth…

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… on one of the world’s loneliest islands.

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Holden, coming back up the hill from a potty break out of view of his giggling sisters in the car.

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The road out to Orwell’s cabin.

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Through the cow gate.

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Huge disappointment.  This place makes Bron Yr Aur look downright urban.

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Long drive back to the small town to look for lunch.

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View of Craighouse (name of town) in the background.

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All of this unique and sparse majesty continues to bore the little ones.

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Until there is beach to play on.

I bought a set of “airplane sized” bottles that feature each of their different expressions to try when I get back to the cottage. It is so strange to me to think that any of us can go down to the liquor store and find Jura on the shelves – and for a price in US$ cheaper than what I’m paying here in £. The speed and efficiency of global manufacturing, transportation and distribution of goods has got to be the most underrated advancement of civilization in the last 100 years.L1004894

No dryer at the cottage. Hanging out the unmentionables after washing. On this, the longest day of the year, we get plenty of evening sun to dry off the clothes.

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June 22, Sunday

(Post by Brenda)
This morning Adam and I left the kids in the cottage (Isabella babysitting) and headed to the Lagavulin Distillery for their 9:30 a.m. tour.  We should have called ahead; the girl told us, “Sorry, we’re all booked up.  We have a 20-person tour arriving any minute.”  We made reservations for the 11:30 a.m. tour and went for a drive instead.

We stumbled on this little beach about 4 minutes down the road.  It was so nice we raced back to the house to get the kids.  We had about an hour to play before we needed to get back to the distillery for our appointment.

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Isabella:  “OK … this isn’t totally lame.”

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We’ve got the whole beach to ourselves! Josie even found two plastic shovels sticking out of the sand.  They’d clearly been there awhile, but they still worked just fine.

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Me having a fabulous time … reading a good book (This is Where I Leave You, Jonathan Tropper) in a gorgeous setting.

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Sand castle contest with the scrounged shovels.  The competition is intense and requires much concentration.  The losing castle gets trampled on.

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Crab fisherman.  This photo doesn’t show it, but a flock of seagulls dogged this boat the whole time he was there.  The crabman would pull up the pots and throw back all the stuff he didn’t want; the seagulls feasted.

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Laguvulin gave us a very nice tour, which was pretty much the same as the Glenfiddich tour we did a couple weeks ago.  The one key difference between the two processes is that Laguvulin smokes their malted barley with peat for several hours before sending it off to the fermentation stage.  It lends a very strong campfire aroma and flavor to the whisky.

The tour girl said that geologists had been out to study Islay’s peat fields and determined that if they continue to use it at the current rate, it will last another 10,000 years.  So, no worries about it running low.

My favorite part of the tour was the fact that little birds had moved into the buildings and built nests.  During the entire tour, birds would swoop down just inches in front of our faces (they were clearly used to groups of people traipsing through).  One of the whisky fermentation tanks had half of a hatched songbird egg resting on the top of it.  Outside on the docks, we were treated to the sight of a swan feeding her cygnet.  Adam pointed out that the only comments I made during the entire event were bird-related.  What can I say …. I’m not very interested in whisky but I love birds.

One interesting fact:  the entire operation only has about 20 employees, and most of them work in the front office.  The whisky itself is made by a team of 7 technicians.  Just think about that for a minute — a world-famous whisky, featured on a hit sitcom in America and found in every bar across the world, and it’s produced right here in these small buildings by SEVEN guys.  Each batch is personally tasted by one of them … no computers involved in that process.  They are still using equipment last upgraded and installed in the 1960s.  Seriously … seven guys.  That is just mind-blowing.

Adam wanted to buy a bottle of their Feis Ile 19-year whisky, which is only available for sale at the distillery.  They only release 3,000 bottles each year, and ours is #2530.  (They released it in May … they are almost sold out just a month later.)  It was barrelled in 1995 and I said to Adam, “Hey, that’s the year we got married!” and the tour/sales girl immediately said, “Hey, that’s the year I was born!”

My mind has been blown twice today.

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The peat smoker.

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Barrel of dried peat.

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The peat used for smoking the malted barley. They need it to be quite wet so it will produce copious amounts of smoke, so they only dry it for 6 weeks. The peat used in home fireplaces is dried much longer to produce a cleaner burn.

Adam having the time of his life in the Lagavulin tasting room.IMG_2379

Icing on the cake; they let you keep the whisky glasses as souvenirs.

Later:  We had a 3:00 p.m. appointment at the horse riding stables.  They are appropriately old-worldly-looking stables.  That is a slate roof on the horse barn, for goodness sake.

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The little girl in the white shirt was just finishing up her riding lesson when we showed up.  Her shirt reads:  I ♥ One Direction.

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This was one unhappy sheep.  She was trapped in the iron cage awaiting shearing.  The guys in charge of the shearing were in no hurry.  They were sitting around on piles of wool enjoying cups of coffee.

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Holden having fun but also a little ill at ease on his horse, Clyde.IMG_2392 IMG_2397

Adam is on Tony.  (We called him Fat Tony.)  Tony is part Highland Pony and part Clydesdale, which is why he’s so much bigger than the other horses.

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Me showing Holden how to “shorten the reins.”

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Off we go!!!

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Riding through the hills.  Gorgeous scenery.  Could it get better?

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YES IT COULD!  We head off to the beach, which ticks off an item on my bucket list — ride a horse on a beach.

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This is the coolest thing EVER.

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We realized that with the helmets on and the similar coats and long braided hair, it’s really hard to tell Isabella and me apart.  Adam was in the back of the train and several times he addressed comments to me, only to discover it was Isabella in front of him.  I’m flattered and Isabella is insulted.

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Josie was so silent on the ride we figured she wasn’t having any fun.  At the end, however, she declared it, “The most fun thing I’ve done in my entire life.”  She’s more on board than ever for taking riding lessons when we get back to Georgia at the end of the summer.

The girl in the blue shirt is one of our guides.  She’s a junior in college at Stirling University, doing this for summer work.  She’s been riding at these stables for 12 years.

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All good things must come to an end.  Over!

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Posted in 2014 UK Summer | 1 Comment

Islay, 19-20 June 2014

June 19, Thursday

We’re headed to the Hebridean island of Islay.  (It’s the spot where the red line ends above Derry in Northern Ireland.)

For watchers of Parks and Recreation, this is the island Ron Swanson called “one place in Europe worth seeing.”  More on that later …Route Summer 2014 Leaving Arrochar; mountain driving up over the final range toward the sea. L1004576 Nearby town of Inveraray.  We stopped here to fuel up the car and visit a woolen mill.  The woolen mill had a tea shop, so we also treated ourselves to tea, coffee and cakes. Inveraray is a small town, but looks to have some interesting things (castle, jail, docks, etc) and so I think that we may stop there for a night or two on our way back towards England. L1004578 The woolen mill in Inverary turned out to be a disappointing tourist trap filled with synthetic junk made in China.  As we were leaving, this tour bus disgorged a horde of senior citizens.  The pace they lumbered out of the bus made them look like a bunch of zombies.

This area of Scotland is chock full of these tourist buses.  I’m glad these elderly folks are getting out in the world, but we flee every time we see one of these tours stop somewhere.  Oldsters flood the attractions and everything they do is so slow. IMG_2326 The last town before we got to the ferry terminal was Tarbert.  We didn’t know when we’d have the chance to eat again, so we decided to bulk up even though it was too early for lunch.  We had brunch instead … full Scottish breakfast, eggs on toast, and an enormous sausage roll. L1004582 Caledonian MacBrayne ferry from Kennacraig to Port Askaig. L1004585 Me, miserably waiting to board the ferry.  I am fending off a panic attack by sheer force of will, after frantically pawing through my purse for my emergency stash of Dramamine and discovering that I don’t have any.  It’s all mind over matter now, baby.

Adam accuses me of making ferry crossings unpleasant for the whole family, but all I do is hide in a corner somewhere and lose myself in a book.  I fail to see how that ruins anyone else’s good time.  Hmph. L1004586 It turned out to be the calmest, easiest crossing we’ve ever experienced.  We even had this cushy lounge area to hang out in. L1004590 It was really windy on the top deck.  The lounge was pretty boring (bad for the kids, but a godsend for me) so they spent a lot of time up playing in the wind.  I didn’t go up there, but Adam wrote this about it:

Once we drew closer to port, the ferry oriented between the two islands of Islay and Jura – where a tunnel of wind whipped up. The kids loved playing on one of the fore decks in the wind – probably blowing about 60-70mph continuously so they could lean forward against the wind and play games jumping around and trying to float a bit with their coats open to simulate wings. L1004593 L1004602 L1004605 L1004606 L1004607 Isabella has repeatedly said that she’s having a lousy time on this vacation and hasn’t had fun even once yet.  Adam took this picture and now can show it to her every time she complains.  “Is this the face of someone not having any fun?”

Adam:  I’ve been showing the “windy” photos to Isabella this evening… proof that she was having a good time. She usually adopts a standard, truculent 14-year old attitude. Everything is boring and nothing goes her way, ever.  She is loathe to admit that she’s having a good time and doesn’t want photographic proof provided.   L1004620 L1004623Our cabin in Port Ellen.

Adam:  “Upper Imeraval” (as with most houses in the countryside, there are no addresses, only names) is a quaint , quirky recently modernised former crofters cottage. “Quirky” means that things might work, but in an odd and counter-intuitive manner. It is the answer to the oft posed “now, why did they do it this way?” L1004642 L1004647 L1004654 L1004655 L1004656 There are two kids’ rooms, each with two single beds.  To Holden’s horror, both rooms are decorated for girls.  He got over it, though, when Isabella and Josie decided to room together and he got the back room all to himself. L1004658 L1004659  June 20, Friday

This morning Holden and Adam got up way earlier than everyone else (as usual) and headed out to do some manly exploring.  Adam tracked down the Lagavulin Distillery, which is only about 3 miles from our crofter’s cabin.L1004660

Islay has some pretty sand beaches, but they are a little on the cold side.  (In this photo, I think Holden has a passing resemblance to Michael Cera.)

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Downtown Port Ellen.

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The Lagavulin Distillery.  This is the reason Ron Swanson visited Islay … the clip is only 25 seconds long and fun to see because the opening shot is almost identical to this one Adam took yesterday.  We’ve been to a spot Nick Offerman has been!!

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Directly across the water from Lagavulin is this ruin of an old castle. (It’s also visible in the Ron Swanson clip.)

Adam:  … Dunyvaig Castle, which hasn’t been in use since the 1670s. There was a sign at the castle warning that it was unsafe to proceed, but the beaten path of weeks suggested that others had been there before us.
Holden and I eventually climbed our way to the top, but not without some degree of danger and a little more excitement than I had bargained for (as in, if Holden misses this next step, continuing the Mayse line solely rests with Torin and Cole…)

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The boys came back and got the rest of us.

The climb was pretty iffy.  I let Isabella follow me up, but made Josie stay behind and told Holden that since he’d already gotten away with it once, he should stay behind, as well, and not push his luck.

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No matter … he found another spot to give me a heart attack instead.

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Bored Isabella.  She looks like this a lot.

L1004763 At the ruined church of St. John the Evangelist one can find the Kildalton Cross.  It was carved in the second half of the 8th century, and is considered the finest surviving Celtic cross in Scotland. L1004776 L1004778 L1004781 A little less holy:  clam poo.  (Unless you are a follower of the Flying Spaghetti Monster, then it’s worthy of pilgrimage … bless His Noodly Appendage. Ramen.) L1004793

We stopped at this beach because Harbor seals were sunning themselves on some rocky outcrops out in the water.  Unfortunately they were too far away to show up in photos.

L1004799 Peat moss.  This is now harvested mostly to flavor whisky.  It is burned underneath the malted barley to stop it’s fermentation.  It imparts a very campfirey flavor to the whisky.  L1004806 Peat moss getting machine. L1004808   The Islay Woollen Mill (spell-correct keeps wanting me to spell it “woolen” but they really do spell the name of the place with two ls) is owned by a guy named Gordon Covell, who spent quite a bit of time showing us around.  He said this mill has been in operation since 1883, but there has been a weaver on this site for more than 500 years.  The original weavers used the neighboring building which is now a storage shed.  The machines in the photos below have been working since 1903 and are still going strong today.

Gordon’s wife showed us how they create the tartan patterns up in the attic, and his son manages the weaving machines on the first floor.  It’s a family operation but they produce and supply tweeds to tailors worldwide, from Savile Row to Tokyo.

Excerpt from their brochure:  … we have built up a business supplying shooting estates, London tailors and film companies with tweeds and Tartans.  The mill has provided fabrics for films including Forrest Gump, Rob Roy, Chaplin, December Bride, Amazing Grace, Spyderwick Chronicles, Maggie Riley, Braveheart, and others.  

We bought a wool throw blanket for our house (and to use here as well, it’s cold in the mornings.)
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Mr. Covell.  He tried really hard to start a conversation with Josie, but she was uncharacteristically shy.  She has a hard time understanding the Scottish accent, and the mill was loud.  He joked with her, “There’s nothing to do on Islay, but you have all day to do it!”

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That guy with the headphones on is the son.

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Just two ancient typewriters sitting in a window because … who needs a reason?

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Gordon’s wife showing us how she creates the patterns.

IMG_2337   A little further down the road … Alpacas. L1004815

Adam:  Portnahaven – the “end of the world” as the locals refer to it. On the very southern tip of the island; we could see Northern Ireland off in the distance. This is the “other side” of what you see when you’re at the Giant’s Causeway. Residents here, up until about 50 years ago, had more in common with the folks on Northern Ireland (16 miles away by boat) than they did with other residents on Islay (let alone the Scottish mainland) – where travel by road was much more lengthy and difficult.  

Mr. Covell said folks would travel to N. Ireland “once a fortnight” but most of them had never been to the towns on the other side of Islay.

L1004822 Tormisdale Croft Crafts is a small, family-owned operation (I think) out in the middle of absolutely nowhere.  It’s a working farm.  The wife spins the wool grown on the premises and knits it into hats, scarves, sweaters, blankets, etc.  They also have walking sticks, knives with horn handles, fresh eggs, and other assorted things made right there on the farm.

In the courtyard we found these two bottle-fed lambs.  In spite of being hand raised by humans, they were still incredibly skittish.  I guess thousands of years of genetic work is at play here … their species has been essentially enslaved by humans.  We’ve altered their genes to increase their wool and milk production way beyond what is natural; we steal their hair to wear ourselves; we steal their milk; we slaughter their babies; and it hasn’t historically been uncommon for men to rape them.  Who can blame them for being skittish?  In a sheep’s version of The Matrix, humans would be the machines and sheep would be the batteries in the slime pods … an abused commodity.

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Isabella wearing a hat woven from wool grown here, spun here, and knitted into a hat here.  One stop shopping!

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We thought this made a pretty picture so we stopped the car and Adam got out.  The cows were not happy about it.  Here they are all looking at him … about 10 seconds later, they all turned tail and left the area.

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Posted in 2014 UK Summer | Leave a comment

Arrochar, 17-18 June 2014

June 17, Tuesday

This morning we woke up to a glorious day.  Tea in hand, I went out on the deck to enjoy the majesty of the setting.  Grieg’s “Morning Mood” was playing in my head.  Ahhh, what a life!  What a world!

Then Holden came out wanting to do some early fishing, and we discovered that an animal(s?) got into our bait and ate it all.  ALL.  We had the fish double-wrapped in plastic, and the plastic isn’t even torn.  Whatever got into it, they managed to neatly unwrap it and shove the plastic bags off to one side.  Every scrap, every scale, gone.  Even the little chunk left on the hook from yesterday, gone.  Also gone was the hook itself and the sinker.  We got cleaned out.  “Morning Mood” was replaced by the sound of Holden whining, “Oh, maaaaaaan!”

So much for fishing.  Holden went back inside to play games on his iPad, and Adam offered to take me out in the boat.  I don’t like boats much and didn’t go out yesterday, but I figured I needed to at least go out once before we leave.

Boats are not for me.  I’m not much of a water person in general … I greatly prefer the woods and mountains to lakes and oceans.  We went out on the lake and sat there for a few minutes.  There were no midges on the water, so that was nice.

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This is our little boat at low tide, early in the morning.

We’re running really low on food, so Adam found an alternate route to the town with the grocery store.  It’s about 30 minutes away.  As happens while adventuring, a boring trip to the grocery store turned into one of the coolest outings we’ve had so far.

Dumbarton Castle is near the grocery store, which in and of itself blows my mind.  You can visit one of the neatest castles in the world and then hit the Marks & Spencer for fruit and Ready Meals on your way back out of town.

Dumbarton (from Dùn Breatainn, which means “the fortress of the Britons”) Castle is built on a huge rock, which itself is the tiny remanent of a once-much-larger volcano.  From the top, you have 360° views, which made it easy to defend.  A castle has been on this location since the 5th century.  It has an incredible history, and we’d never even heard of it before today. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on your point of view), it’s being restored right now and you can’t go into many of the buildings.  Nevertheless, it was still one of the most inspiring places I’ve ever been.

Dumbarton changed hands many, many times over the centuries.  One of the most famous people who lived here was Mary Queen of Scots.  She became queen when she was only 6 days old and a lot of folks didn’t want her on the throne.  Her supporters basically needed safe places to stash her until she got old enough to be useful, so they shuffled her around from castle to castle; she hid out here for several months in 1548 until she could be whisked away to France.

There is a huge stone wall built onto the top rim of a cliff that falls away into the sea.  I’m sure Mary didn’t have to climb down the wall like Sansa Stark fleeing King’s Landing, but in my imagination that’s exactly what her escape to France looked like.

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The kids are always game for climbing on rocks.  This was perfect.

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This castle has 557 steps.  They are steep, uneven, slippery and ancient.  The kids complained about being too tired (climbing stairs is boring work, whereas climbing cliff faces is cool) but to me it feels like you’ve stepped directly into a video game.

I said to the kids, “This is what they are trying to mimic with virtual reality and haven’t been able to do.  You’re having the experience in real life that nobody has been able to sufficiently fake.  Enjoy it!  This experience right here is the goal of every video game company in the world!”  This sparked a heated debate about why virtual reality is better than real reality because if this were a video game, they’d be able to fly and wouldn’t have to tire out their legs walking up 557 stairs.

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Taking a rest before heading up the next staircase.

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More stairs.

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The arch used to be the main entrance with a portcullis.

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Gardens surrounding the meandering castle.

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This building used to be a French prison.

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On the top of the rock, you can see for miles in every direction.

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I could have easily spent the entire day here, just enjoying the atmosphere.

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The very highest peak.  You can barely see Isabella and me standing on the look-out platform.  It was very hot today and up there you could stretch your arms out and catch a refreshing sea breeze.

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Holden watching the ships coming in.  This is still a busy shipping lane for goods coming in to nearby Glasgow.  People have been sitting on that rock looking at ships for more than 1,500 years.

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Later in the evening when we were back home watching TV, this satirical commercial for the E4 Virtual Head Bucket aired.  “… so make travel and real human contact a thing of the past.  Say goodbye to reality and say ‘howdy doody’ to the sexy world of the E4 Virtual Head Bucket.”  It ends with a guy wearing his ridiculous purple Head Bucket sitting in an alley next to a garbage can.  Isabella cracked up because she’d been arguing in favor of virtual reality all day.  The timing was perfect.  She finally admitted that actual reality has some pretty distinct advantages.

The kitty we’re calling Sushi came back this evening.  Since all the fish bait was gone, we didn’t have much to give her in the way of food.  Adam ate a Ready Meal of pork loin that came with sautéed Savoy cabbage and he hadn’t eaten the cabbage part, so I offered that to Sushi.  It was covered in pork juice and she ate it ravenously.  She’s really skinny and clearly starving — I think she’s a stray.

We have all the doors open because it’s been getting so hot in the afternoons, and kitty has essentially moved in.  Around 11:00 p.m. (it’s still very light out) Josie said, “Sushi has a friend.”  Now we have two kitties!  (I bet they are the ones who ate all the bait yesterday.)

June 18, Wednesday

This morning I got up and looked for Sushi but she was gone.  I gave up and opened myself a package of smoked Scottish trout for breakfast.  Before I even had the wrapper off, I heard plaintive meowing at the back door.  Purrfect timing, kitty.  I had to share my gourmet smoked trout with her because I felt like a jerk eating it front of her while she looked at me with starving eyes.  Today I need to go to the kwik-e-mart and buy some cat food.

Our plans for the day were to go visit Kilchurn Castle (in Dalmally) and the Falls of Dochart (in Killin).  The road out of Arrochar (pronunciation:  go to the dentist and have your mouth shot full of novocain, then say “Al Roker.”  It’s pretty close) had a lot to offer on it’s own, though, and we made a couple of stops just because the landscape was so pretty.  This first one is a small private beach.

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Holden and Josie found a bower. Crawling in was a must.

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Adam’s Land Rover, which he loves.  It makes for a pretty romantic picture, I will admit.  It’s more photogenic than it is functional.

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Isabella claimed the whole log:  “Mine.  Holden, you go stand over there.”

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Picking wild blueberries.  The kids were shocked you could find real food in the woods.  They ate the blueberries, but worried about being poisoned after Adam made a joke about them being poisonberries.  They watched me eat a bunch of them first, just to make sure I didn’t start convulsing and die.

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A different stop a little further along the road, this time by a creek.  I said, “Make sure you guys don’t get wet because we don’t have a change of clothes or shoes for you and we’re probably going on a little hike later.”

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The next thing I heard …

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“Holden soaked his shoes!”

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St. Conan’s Kirk on Loch Awe.  (It looked medieval, but really was built in 1930.)  We stopped at their tea shop to get directions to Kilchurn Castle because it’s not on the tourist circuit and doesn’t have any signs leading to it.  Our GPS only got us into the vicinity.  We love visiting things off the beaten path because they generally aren’t so crowded.

We got directions from the nice tea-shop lady, but first …. St. Conan’s Kirk.  It was a beautiful church in a beautiful location.  It was originally started in 1881, but was very small and pretty insignificant.  In 1907, a guy named Walter Campbell decided to make it much grander for his mother, who complained that going to church each week in Dalmally was too taxing for her and wanted something closer to her house.

Walter was “a most capable if somewhat unorthodox architect” and “he did not allow himself to be trammelled by convention or orthodoxy.”  He designed the new buildings himself, although he died in 1917 before they were completed.  His sister Helen oversaw most of the remaining construction, but she died in 1927.  Her trustees finished everything up in 1930.  It’s a small but very beautiful church in a gorgeous natural setting.

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We finally found Kilchurn Castle.  You park in a lot hidden off the road behind a bunch of bushes.  Then you follow some paths, some of which are wrong, before you finally find the right one.

Walking up to Kilchurn Castle was like finding myself dropped into the final book of Stephen King’s The Dark Tower series, when Roland Deschain finally gets to the Dark Tower.  He travels for days along a deserted path, and finally sees the bleak and desolate tower off in the distance.  This is exactly what I envisioned when I read the book.

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This round thing was on the roof at one time.  The castle was hit by lightning in 1760 and this ended up in the courtyard.  The castle was abandoned at that time and has been pretty much in this condition since then.

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The long and lonely “Dark Tower” road leading to the castle.  Parking is way back in the trees where the path begins.

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Isabella in the kitchen fireplace.

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“Let’s go left now.”

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A result of the previous shoe soaking:  we spent a lot of time waiting for “Hold on!  I gotta fix my shoe!”

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Leaving what I will always think of as The Dark Tower.

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Our last stop of the day was the Falls of Dochart in Killin.  It’s yet another storybook setting.L1004546 L1004548

The kids took off their shoes and rolled up their pants; time to get wet and climb on rocks!!

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My favorite picture of the day …. it captures both her beauty and her spirit.

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Holden found a hole in the rocks, and of course the first thing he thought to do was stick his foot through it.

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We stopped at the kwik-e-mart for milk and cat food, as planned, on the way home.  The kitty didn’t show up until 9:30 p.m., but show up she did … and with her calico friend.  I got the satisfaction of feeding two grateful cats before I went to bed.

Tomorrow we head off for Islay, an island in the Hebrides.  It requires a 2 hour ferry boat ride, which I am quite nervous about.  I hate boats.  I really want to see the island, though, so the boat ride is something I must endure.

 

Posted in 2014 UK Summer | Leave a comment

Loch Long, Arrochar, 15-16 June 2014

June 15, Sunday

Leaving Nethy Bridge this morning had us pass by House of Bruar for the third time, so we stopped to get the makings of another Skyrim dinner.

In front of the grocery store they have a small local farmers’ market set up.  Last time we bought some truly outstanding strawberries and raspberries.  This time, in addition to the strawberries and raspberries, they had the best selection of heirloom tomatoes I’ve ever seen all in one place.  With visions of caprese salad dancing in my head, I decided to go buy the cheeses and stuff first, then hit the farmers’ market stalls on the way out.

Big mistake.  In this particular store, the candy section is situated by the front entrance.  The kids get stuck in there and it’s tough to keep them moving.  I was so busy trying to herd them out of the building that stopping at the produce stalls completely slipped my mind.  I didn’t even notice until dinnertime when I went to get the strawberries out and realized we didn’t have any.  I was planning to keep the seeds from the best tomatoes, too, so I could try growing them in Georgia when I got home.  I blame the kids.

The roads from Nethy Bridge to Loch Long are hilly and winding, and some of the prettiest we’ve ever seen.  The landscape in this part of Scotland is stunning.

Isabella suddenly started to feel carsick, though, and asked to stop for a few minutes so she could walk around and clear her head.  The nearest spot on the narrow road with a pull-out just also happened to have a couple of friendly horses.  Score!

The horses came over to be petted, and I rummaged through our food stash to find some treats.  I came up with a banana.  The brown horse took a small bite, and clearly wished he hadn’t … lots of lip pursing and tongue thrusting ensued in his attempts to spit it out.  The banana had already been crushed, though, and didn’t spit out well.  It was stuck to his tongue and the roof of his mouth.  The rest of the banana was soundly rejected, and Holden ended up eating it.

Back to the car for me to look for more acceptable treats.  We had a box of muesli (oats, sunflower seeds, raisins, etc.) and a handful of that proved much more to his liking.  He was so happy with muesli that the white horse finally decided to mosey over and see if there was anything he could get in on.

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Yeah … muesli is worth walking over to the fence.

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The above picture shows how much taller Isabella is than I am now.  She is standing a tiny bit uphill from me in this one, but she’s definitely got more than 2 inches on me these days (maybe even more than 3 by now.)

Last night Adam needed to put a new memory card in his camera and discovered the last pictures he’d taken on that card were of our trip last summer at the Grand Canyon.  There is a photo of me braiding Isabella’s hair, and she’s clearly several inches shorter than I am.  Her face looks so much younger and kid-like, too.  What a difference a year makes at that age!  I can’t see it happening in person from day to day, but the photos make it clear that changes are taking place at a rapid rate.  Children are little for such a brief time.

Ahhh, nostalgia.  But back to this summer in Scotland …

Nothing but rolling green hills and valleys as far as the eye can see.  Even in foggy weather it’s gorgeous.

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We found lunch at a resort on the banks of Loch Tay.  This is a fresh water lake that clearly is a resort area for summer recreation.  The overall feel of the place is much like Whitefish Lake in Montana, although it doesn’t really look the same.  It just has a similar vibe.

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Isabella, enjoying a peaceful moment of solitude before having to crawl into the back seat again with Josie and Holden.

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A little further down the road is a quaint village called Killin.  I spotted a promising-looking antique shop as we drove through town and pleaded with Adam to turn around and go back to it.  This was no minor request — Adam has a tendency to drive by things with a firm grip on the steering wheel and say, “Oops! oh well we’re past it now no going back.”  Luckily for me, there was a really convenient place to pull in and turn the car around.

This antique store (Killin Gallery) is one of the coolest I’ve ever been in.  The proprietor was an elderly man who loved to talk about the history of all the items in the shop and he knew about everything.

The one painting that really caught my eye was a pastoral scene depicting two cows, painted in a loose, impressionistic style.  The artist was Andrew Douglas (1870-1935), a painter who has exhibited at the Glasgow Institute, the Royal Scottish Academy, and the Royal Academy, London. He was elevated to full membership in the Royal Scottish Academy in 1933.  So, he is fairly well-known in the art world of the UK.

We decided to buy it.  The proprietor of the antique shop said he thought this painting was probably a study Douglas did in preparation for a much larger work that was eventually shown at the RSA a couple years later.  (Ours was painted in 1912, I think … I can’t remember what’s written on the back of it.)

The old guy left us in charge of store and wandered away next door to find packing material.  He joked, “If you sell anything while I’m gone, you can have a commission.”  Adam and I could hardly believe he’d just leave a couple of total strangers in his store, alone.  This town must not have much in the way of crime.

Once we got back on the road and had driven a couple of miles, Adam said, “Do you suppose the painting is actually in the box?  He left us in the store but when he went to go pack it up, he was in that other building.”  The box he presented to us was taped up tight.  I said, “Surely he wouldn’t have switched paintings on us or anything.  He trusted us with his whole store.”  Adam said, “Yeah … and wouldn’t that just be the perfect cover?” That thought got us paranoid so when we checked into our new house, we opened the box to see if we’d been swindled.

Nope!  Here is the painting.  The old guy was a straight arrow after all, and he really was that nice.  (And we’re mistrusting old cynics.)  If you are ever in Killin, go buy some of his stuff.

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Loch Long in Arrochar (G83 7AH).  If you look at a map of this lake, you can see that it’s connected to the ocean.  The lake is salt water and has tides.  The owner of the property said that often seals and porpoises swim in and you can see them right from the deck.  Back in the olden days, it also had Vikings.  They could enter this Loch from the ocean and then carry their boats to nearby Loch Lomond to perpetrate murderous raidings.

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This house has a solarium that really takes advantage of the views.  Here Josie is exploring the new digs, and you can see me (sort of)  in the window admiring our new painting.

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The frog pond right outside the solarium.  There are hundreds of tadpoles in here, and one really big carp.

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This eagle was carved directly into the stump … it is one big piece of wood.

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We’ve now had our first experience with midges.  People in Northern England kept warning us, upon hearing we intended to spend part of the summer in Scotland, that the midges will eat folks alive and that we needed to get some good bug repellant.  We hadn’t seen any midges yet and started thinking those Englanders were full of it.

Now we get it.  Midges are little bugs similar (maybe the same?) to no-see-ums and they are horrible.  At least with a real mosquito you can see them coming.  The midges are tiny ninjas, striking in silence.  You don’t know you’ve been bitten until the itching starts.

Josie checking out the lake with binoculars.  She’s safely in the house looking out the window.  The midges got her so badly her arms look like she has chicken pox.

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Josie, embarrassed to be caught playing with the dollhouse.  She played with this thing for hours but didn’t want anyone thinking she was a baby.  It’s a really cool dollhouse … it even has electricity and little chandeliers and lamps that light up.

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June 16, Monday

I had a hard time sleeping last night.  One weird thing we’ve noticed on our travels to the UK is that people here don’t seem to believe in bedding layers.  Every bed we’ve slept in has a bottom (fitted) sheet and a thick comforter … and nothing else.  No top sheet, no lighter blanket, no additional throw.  This house is no exception.

On our bed at home, I’ve created the perfect sleeping environment.  Multiple layers of bedding have been carefully chosen to allow the sleeper to adjust the temperature according to changing needs throughout the night.  We have a top sheet, a light blanket, a slightly heavier light blanket, a quilt, and a down comforter.  During the night, one can peel off layers or pile them on without having to get up.  It’s wonderful.

There is no such layering going on over here in the UK.  Your choices are two:  Sweat Lodge (under the comforter) or Walk-In Freezer (no blanket at all.)

But on to more important news:  this house has a kitty!! The owner gave us a fishing pole and some mackerel to use as bait, and as soon as Adam got the fish out and started cutting it up … here comes kitty. Of course we (“we” being Josie, Isabella and me) cut up nearly half of one of the mackerel and fed it to the cat, because how could we not? We’re calling this cat Sushi.

Shots from Adam’s early morning walk.  The weather is much better today.

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One of the things Holden wanted to do most this summer is go fishing.  This morning Adam took Josie out in the boat first because she didn’t care much about fishing and her boat ride was going to be much shorter.  Holden was so full of anticipation for his turn he was about to wet his pants.  Imagine his profound disappointment when Adam returned with Josie and said, “I’ll take you out in a little while, Bug.  I want to have a cup of coffee first.”

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First boat ride! Serious business.

Possibly the saddest, most pathetic sight we’ll see on this whole trip … Holden “practicing” in the boat and waiting for Daddy to finish selfishly drinking a cup of coffee.  This guy is going nowhere, but that’s not stopping him.  He’s ready.L1004398-2

For a little more perspective: this is how far he was from actual water.  So, so sad.

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Finally!!!  You are looking at one happy guy right now.  They didn’t even get a nibble, but who cares?  A boy and a daddy in a boat, one of the best things in life.

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At noon the restaurants in the village open, so we headed in for lunch.  Adam sat at this table saying, “Ahhh!  Now this is the life!”  We all needed to marinate in midge spray, but thankfully they didn’t ruin the al fresco lunch.

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After lunch it was Isabella’s turn in the boat.  We saw a porpoise earlier today and she was hoping to see another one close up.  Didn’t happen, but she had a great daddy/daughter time anyway.  The scene was so moving that I finally tried to figure out how to work Adam’s Leica camera.  It’s old school — no auto focus, which is a handicap for someone like me with not-so-good faraway vision.

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A view of our solarium.  I was toying with the idea of adding one of these to our house in Georgia, but after today I’ve given up on it.  This thing heated up like a sauna today, and it’s not even hot out.  In a climate like Georgia’s, you’d have to air condition it year-round just to make it non-lethal.  Never mind.

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Boating is over now, so it’s time to hit the swing set …

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…. and then the hot tub.  Holden’s face says it all.  “Ahhhhhhhhhhhyeah, that’s the stuff.”

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Upon closer inspection of the water, I saw a jellyfish.  They are moon jellyfish — frequently used in aquariums because even though they have venom and sting their prey (mostly small fish) their cnidoblasts aren’t powerful enough to penetrate human skin tissues so they are relatively safe.

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Off to get the frog net.  I caught the jellyfish and was very surprised at it’s texture once taken out of the water.  I was expecting it to look like a wet piece of toilet paper, but it looked more like a 1970s Thanksgiving jello salad.  We took a good look at it and then released it back into the water, completely unharmed.

In this photo, it’s just been released … you can see it as a white spot just a few inches to the right of the pink net (above the white handle.)  The jellyfish is hard to see because it’s almost completely transparent.   It was pretty big though — I’d say it was a good 8 inches in diameter, about the size of a dinner plate.

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We’re not sure what we’ll do tomorrow.  Our original plan was to drive to the nearest grocery store, which is 28 miles away, but the road to that town is closed for the next 4 weeks.  We’re running out of food and Arrochar’s kwik-e-mart doesn’t have much to offer. We may have to go exploring.

Posted in 2014 UK Summer | Leave a comment

Nethy Bridge, 12-14 June 2014

June 12, Thursday

On the road back to Nethy Bridge from Edinburgh this morning, we stopped at the The Scottish Wildlife Trust’s Loch of the Lowes Wildlife Reserve.  It’s not really for tourists but rather a scientific research station that allows people to come in and very respectfully get a peek at ospreys and other wildlife in their natural habitat.

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The have hides set up (these brown buildings) with high-powered telescopes for use in watching the animals across the lake.

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What Josie would look like as a scientist.

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They have an HD camera aimed at the osprey nest which is broadcasting to a TV in the main building and in the hides.  This female is sitting on a clutch of eggs, but a scientist told us a crow damaged her eggs several weeks ago and sadly there is no chance of them hatching.  She’s been on them for 60 days now … not giving up, but way past the point where any chicks would have hatched if the eggs were good.

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An old osprey nest was salvaged and placed where visitors can see it up close.  They are huge.

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Our cabin in Nethy Bridge (name of the town) is the best place we’ve stayed so far.  The cottage has been recently renovated inside so it’s sparkling clean and everything works.  It has a fabulous washer/dryer set, so I’ve been doing laundry like there is no tomorrow.  No having to hang it outside or battle spiders in a dilapidated shack to use an ancient dryer!

The cabin is out in the woods by a little creek.  The property is beautiful and full of wildlife.    If you’ve ever had a fantasy of going to live in a cabin in the woods like a hermit, this is the place for you.  It’s peaceful and relaxing … a soul-nourishing kind of place.

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Master bedroom. Brand new everything, including pillows. Ahhhhh….

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Isabella’s glorious room of privacy.

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Holden and Josie have to share the tiny room, but since everyone is spending most of their time outside, it doesn’t really matter.  Most importantly, they each get their own bed.

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Living room. Picture windows overlooking the garden and all the birds, deer and squirrels, plus a big flat-screen TV and a wood and coal burning stove.

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Fully equipped kitchen with all new appliances. I want to move in.

The garden is fantastic.  You wouldn’t know from the photo, but the kids are hyperactive and thrilled. They’ve spent all afternoon running around, playing tag, playing in the creek and blowing off some steam.  Right now they are taking a break to eat candy.

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Down the hill is the creek.  The name of the creek is “Caochan Fhuarain” and empties into the River Spey about 5 miles away.

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Tonight we had what we’re calling a “Skyrim dinner.”  We even ate it outside.

We stopped at House of Bruar again on our way back from Edinburgh and hit their gourmet grocery store.  We bought strawberries and raspberries that had been picked just that morning, a wedge of cheese, some Hedgehog bread, olives, smoked venison, roasted pecans, raw Heather honey, and some quails’ eggs.  We haven’t eaten the eggs yet, but everything else got devoured for dinner.  Most of those items are food in the Skyrim game (in some form or another) and eating them outside next to a creek in the woods with our hands made us all feel like we were living in the past as envisioned by Bethesda.  The kids have absolutely come alive.  This place has great wifi and access to Netflix, yet they are choosing to run around like wild monkeys outside.  Absolute perfection.

June 13, Friday

This cabin is so comfortable and peaceful that we couldn’t work up any interest in leaving for the day to do activities.  We did need to make a trip to the grocery store, which was met with complaints and moaning from the kids because yesterday we promised that we’d just stay in all day.  They considered a short trip to get food reneging on the promise.

We spent the entire day playing outside, watching Netflix movies, eating fruit and cheese, and wandering around the rural neighborhood.  A fuzzy black cat showed up to play with the kids and they named it Snowball.  A little while later, another fuzzy grey cat showed up … Snowball II.  The two cats look like siblings and have identical collars, so we assume they belong to the same household.  It didn’t stop them from fighting, though.  Snowball II is a real jerk.

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Snowball I, hanging out.

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Here comes Snowball II

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Snowball II decides that’s enough petting, it’s time to wander over to the table and attack. For no discernible reason.  This happened a lot of times.

Around 3:00 in the afternoon, it started raining pretty hard and we heard some loud meowing outside the kitchen door.  Snowball I was huddled under the Land Rover with a struggling, eviscerated shrew.  It was pretty gruesome.  I shut the door, but the kitty came to the doorstep wanting in.  I opened up and Snowball walked right in like she owned the place.  She parked herself in front of the fireplace and started to lick herself dry.

I went outside in the pouring rain to stomp on the shrew (to put it out of it’s misery) but it was gone … I don’t know if she swallowed it whole or what.  No matter though … she’s curled up on my lap now and purring contentedly.  Adam built a fire in the wood stove and the front room is warm and cozy.  We’re watching Orange is the New Black, I have a snuggly kitty on my lap, a mug of hot tea, and life is perfect.  I may never leave this place.  (I’m hoping really hard that cats in Scotland don’t have fleas or intestinal worms.)  Today is Friday the 13th with a full moon, and a strange black cat is on my lap … lucky day?  (Not for the poor shrew.)

Maybe tomorrow we’ll muster up the gumption to leave the house.

June 14, Saturday

Today, after a very leisurely morning, we decided to drive to the nearby town of Aviemore.  They have some coffee shops and a grocery store, and some hiking trails.

When Adam went outside to start the car, the windshield wipers came on and wouldn’t turn off.  This is the second problem we’ve had with the Land Rover since we got here; in Inverness, the driver’s side door suddenly couldn’t be opened from the outside.  Adam spent an hour in a mechanic’s shop getting that fixed.  Now the windshield wipers are going like gangbusters and won’t stop.

My feelings about the car are sliding from resigned tolerance into outright loathing and fear. It’s a rattling, unreliable death trap (so says me.)

I’ve seen enough episodes of Top Gear to know that men form intense attachments to cars, and the more decrepit the cars are, the more affection and protective loving care is poured into them.  I guess I can sort of understand the instinct; when I was a little girl choosing pets, I faithfully picked the injured, sickly, runty, mentally challenged animal every single time.  I loved them because I feared nobody else would.  They needed me.  Maybe it’s kind of like that with men and these buckets of bolts.  I do not feel this way about cars; the second they become unreliable, I’m ready to salvage any recyclable materials off them and gleefully toss the rest into the crusher.  Good riddance to bad rubbish.

We stopped at a coffee shop that had free wifi and Adam spent some time finding a local mechanic.  When we got to the shop, he was told the mechanic was out of town for several days, but what Adam should do is just pull the fuse to the windshield wipers.  We drove back to the cabin before he started messing around under the hood, on the off chance that pulling the wiper fuse somehow resulted in the car refusing to start (my worry, although Adam assures me those two systems have nothing to do with each other — like pulling a splinter out of your finger can’t give you diarrhea.) He humored me anyway.

Adam managed to get the wipers switched off, but now if it starts raining we’ll have to pull over and put the fuse back in if we want to be able to see.

On a brighter note, when we got back to the cabin Snowball was waiting for us by the kitchen door.  Yay!  We let her in and fed her a little bit of ham and a quail’s egg that I accidentally dropped in the garbage when I was making breakfast earlier this morning.  She is a really great kitty.

It stopped raining around 11:30 so we took the kids for a walk down by the river.  Adam and I felt it was a hike to enjoy the majesty of the wilderness, but the kids felt it was more of a forced march.  They wanted to stay in the yard and play Capture the Flag, but they can do that at home:  they can’t hike through the Scottish woods at home.  When we got back, Snowball was still sleeping on Isabella’s bed.  Yay again!

Hiking here is wonderful, if it’s not raining.  Getting wet is definitely a risk.  However, the temperatures are comfortably cool and the landscape is lush, green, and smells fresh and clean.  You can go for several miles without getting all gross and sweaty.  It’s perfect.

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It smells as good as it looks out here.

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Fixing a shoe.

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Found some weird stuff hanging from the trees. Dream catchers? Broken hammock? We’ll never know.

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Weird fort in the woods.

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Exploring the woods. The ground is carpeted in moss that feels several inches thick. On a dry day, you could bring a blanket out here and sleep comfortably.

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The Caochan Fhuarain creek.

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That thing in the tree is a “drey” — something they put up to encourage red squirrel nesting. They are trying to get the red squirrel population back up from the brink of extinction.

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They walked faster on the way back home. Much grumbling about the “pointlessness” of hiking when one could instead choose to stay in the yard and play Capture the Flag.

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Wearing his hat and thinking deep thoughts.

Nethy Bridge Hotel on the left – built in the late 1800’s. It’s still open, but a bit tired and need of some renovation. In it’s prime, it was a popular destination and hosted guests like Mae West and Cary Grant – people who wanted to get away for a week or more in the Scottish Highlands.

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The kids spent the rest of the afternoon playing outside, and I spent the afternoon doing a few chores with Snowball following me around.  By “following me around” I mean that she tailed me into the kitchen hoping for food, and spent the rest of the time laying next to me on the couch while I watched Netflix and poked around on the computer (aka “chores.”)

Tomorrow we have to leave this spectacular cabin and go to a house on the water (Loch Long) a little southwest from here.  It has a hot tub, which sounded awesome on the website when we were searching for a place to reserve last week, but I’m pretty sure they won’t have a kitty.  The kids and I are going to have a hard time leaving our vacation pet.

Update:  maybe a little easier to leave Snowball now … at 4:00 a.m. she decided she wanted to be fed and hopped up in our bed to screech “meeeeeeooooowwww” in my ear and pat at my face with her paw.  I kicked her out of the room, so she went into Holden and Josie’s room to meow at them instead.  We don’t have any cat food and she wouldn’t stop making noise, so we shut her in the kitchen (with the kitty door) and she left.

Posted in 2014 UK Summer | Leave a comment

Inverness, 10-11 June 2014

June 10, Tuesday

One of the things Adam and John wanted to do most in Scotland is visit some whisky distilleries.  Yesterday’s Glenfiddich tour was family friendly, but most of the whisky tours are 18+ only.  I needed to dye my hair and I don’t like whisky, so I volunteered to stay home today with the kids so the rest of the adults could do some tours.  It turned out to be a depressing day for me.

Firstly, I hate having to dye my hair.  When I was a teenager, my hair couldn’t grow fast enough to suit me (mostly because I needed to grow out a disastrous perm); now that I’m in my 40s, it grows so fast I get a skunk stripe down the middle every two weeks.  I’m too vain to just go grey, so I’m stuck with this inconvenient chore with hair dye way too often.

Secondly: yesterday I had a headache at the Glenfiddich distillery, so while on the tour I took an Advil.  I didn’t have any water to drink, seeing as we were in the middle of a demonstration, and as a result the pill got stuck halfway down my throat.  An hour later, it was still there driving me nuts.  I spent the rest of the day feeling like I had a wad of peanut butter in my esophagus.  It just wouldn’t go away, no matter how much water I eventually drank.  The pill had to be dissolved by now, right?

By bedtime, I was starting to worry so I got online to google “it feels like I have a wad of peanut butter lodged in my esophagus” and discovered that this syndrome has a name:  pill esophagitis.  It turns out that if you swallow any NSAID (non-steroid anti-inflammatory drug — ibuprofen, aspirin, acetaminophen, etc.) without sufficient liquid to wash it all the way to your stomach, it can lodge halfway down and start to dissolve.  It causes irritation and swelling (and in the worst cases, bleeding) of the esophageal tissues that lasts for several days.  I didn’t even know this was a thing that could happen, but here it is, and it’s very uncomfortable.  It’s also the kind of thing that generally only happens to little kids and the elderly.

Lastly, this house has a full-length mirror …. the first one I’ve seen since we left home.  While I had a plastic bag on my head full of hair dye and a clogged-up esophagus, I changed my clothes in front of the full-length mirror and noticed an enormous bruise on my derrière.  I don’t even remember bumping into anything.  How could I have such a huge, nasty bruise?

I spent the rest of the day depressed and feeling terribly old.  My hair is grey; I’m bruising easily; I have a new pill-swallowing problem.  Then I took a look at the pictures Adam shot of me yesterday and my face looks like something painted by Salvador Dali … melting into a grotesque mask that only vaguely resembles what I looked like in my youth.  I’m falling apart!  Cue the obligatory existential crisis.  My body is falling apart, my life is half over, my kids are nearly grown up (only 9 years left with Josie, Isabella will be gone in 4!!) and I can’t even be trusted to properly swallow an Advil anymore.  Bah!

Meanwhile, Adam and his parents were having a fabulous time touring the distilleries and tasting the whiskeys.

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Toasting at the Glenfarclas tasting room.

The day started looking up a little for me when Adam, John and Elaine got back.  Elaine and John offered to stay with the kids so Adam and I could walk across the bridge into Inverness and have a dinner date, just the two of us.  We found a really neat little Turkish restaurant.

We were just finishing up, though, when we got a text from Isabella that read: “Holden’s headphones broke and when you get home he is going to blame us, so when he does, let me and Josie explain our side of the story please.”  We hadn’t even been gone an hour.

We immediately knew that whatever happened, it was absolutely Isabella and Josie’s fault:  whenever they start using the words “us” and “our side” it’s a dead giveaway that they are in cahoots and they’ve been getting their story straight.

We walked home and found Holden in tears; his headphones were utterly destroyed.  They were a very nice, expensive pair we’d given him for his birthday.  We finally got the story — Isabella and Josie broke into his room to blast Beyoncé from Isabella’s iPad just to irritate him because he hates Beyoncé.  In all the chaotic jumping and dancing around on his bed, the headphones somehow ended up knocked off a table and shoved under a blanket that was on the floor.  Someone stomped on them.  Nobody knows who did the stomping; therefore, none of them did the stomping.   It was just a chorus of “It wasn’t MEEEEE!” from every source.

We ended up making Isabella and Josie each pay 50% to buy Holden a new pair, since it was clearly their shenanigans that caused the circumstances of breakage in the first place.  Holden was just minding his own business in his room, enjoying not listening to Beyoncé.

Isabella didn’t put up too much of a fight over the ruling because she has quite a bit of money saved up, but Josie is beside herself.  Her account is now completely wiped out — no more spending money for the rest of the trip.

June 11, Wednesday

John and Elaine are leaving tomorrow morning to go back home, and are flying out of Edinburgh.  We spent the day driving from Inverness to the Edinburgh airport, with no real plans.  We decided to just stop at interesting looking places we found along the road.  It turned out to be a really fun day and thankfully I’m over my blue funk about life being subject to entropy, decay, and eventual death.

The first cool place we found was a surprise gourmet pit stop in the middle of nowhere called the House of Bruar.   They have a huge high-end shopping center for cashmere and other really nice clothing, along with a restaurant, gourmet food center, and art gallery.  We ate a snack of assorted pastries and had coffee and tea, then hit the cashmere shops.

The merchandise was very nice, but also very expensive.  I didn’t find anything in the ladies department, but when I went upstairs to the men’s department to find Adam, I found a rack of men’s cable-knit wool sweaters that were 50% off.  They were all size Small, and fit me.  I assume they were on sale because I can’t imagine any adult man fitting into one of them … the sleeves are a bit tight on me, and I’m small even by woman standards.  I’ve been wanting a cable-knit wool sweater for three years and haven’t purchased one yet because the prices always make me cringe, but at 50% off it was bordering on reasonable.  Who cares that it was meant for a man!  It’s mine now.

Josie hanging off the back of the Land Rover, holding her rock candy.  She managed to scrape together enough money to buy a treat after all.

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Next up:  We spotted a sign on the road for Blair Atholl Watermill and decided to stop.  (It sounds like Phteven was asked about someone named Blair, a person whom he holds in low esteem: “Blair?  Atholl.”)

The mill began operation more than 140 years before George Washington was born … that’s the kind of history this place has.  It’s still running today, and we bought some ground oats.  We also pilfered the free samples to bribe ducks into being our friends.

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Before we went in … we had nothing to offer the ducks, and they snubbed us.  Our empty hands fooled no one.

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The water wheel. The creek is surprisingly small, but it gets the job done.

The kids getting to experience what grinding oats the old fashioned way was like, which made it crystal clear why people wanted a mill so badly.  Grinding oats by hand is hard and takes forever.  You’d probably burn more calories grinding it into flour than you’d consume by eating the bread it produced.

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After:  now we have bread samples and the ducks are suddenly interested in being our friends.

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We stopped at a small town (well … to be fair, pretty much every town in Scotland is a small town) called Dunkeld for lunch.

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The setting is gorgeous.

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Last stop for the day, and possibly the very best:  Stewart Tower Dairy, in another small town called Bankfoot.  We stopped here because they advertised homemade ice cream.  It turned out to be a very neat farm.  In addition to ice cream, you can buy things like fresh eggs, milk, butter, cream, and preserves.

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My cable-knit wool man sweater. I love it. It even has leather elbow patches for pensive thinking at a desk.

The cows; presumably the very ones who produced the milk that became the ice cream we ate.

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This girl liked to have her ears scratched.

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Baby goats.  There just isn’t a cuter thing on Earth than a baby goat.

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Grandma is enjoying this stop much more than yesterday’s whisky tastes.

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I skipped the ice cream because eating it would have cut into my talking to/playing with the animals time.  They had cows, goats, sheep, chickens and pigs.  I’m at my very happiest when surrounded by animals, so this day totally made up for yesterday as far as I’m concerned.

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Packed into the back of the Defender.  Seven passengers and about 25 pieces of luggage.  Every time we turned a corner, I’d have to yell “TURNING A CORNER!” and these two would brace the luggage with their hands so it wouldn’t topple over on their heads.  I was halfway convinced we were all going to die.  I’ve tried to like the Land Rover for Adam’s sake… but I just can’t.  How many safety features does this car have?  Zero.

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We spent the night at the Holiday Inn Express near the Edinburgh airport, and it was very, very nice.  I’d recommend it to anyone needing to stay right by the airport.  We’ve stayed in some pretty grubby, depressing places next to airports before; this one was quite pleasant.  It’s not real big on atmosphere, but it’s clean, roomy, and has a pretty decent free breakfast that is served starting at 4 a.m. so travelers don’t have to catch early-morning flights on an empty stomach.

Posted in 2014 UK Summer | Leave a comment

Loch Ness, 8-9 June 2014

June 8, Sunday

Early this morning, Adam, Elaine, John and Josie got up early and went for a walk around Inverness.  Here are a couple photos:

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Inverness Castle. Not open to the public because it’s still used for government functions.

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Josie and Elaine looking at bunnies.

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Footbridge over Ness River. Our house is right at the left end of the bridge and Old Inverness (where all the cool stuff is) is at the foot of the right end of the bridge. Our location is perfect.

Loch Ness was our first official stop, and about a 30 minute drive from our B&B.  I always thought Loch Ness was in Inverness, but all the touristy parts are actually in a town called Drumnadrochit.

I don’t know what happened to the kids today, but they all woke up on the wrong side of the bed.  The entire day was filled with squabbling and things like, “She’s mocking me with her face!” and “He’s breathing in my direction!”  Holden kept opening the window and sticking his head out, which caused him to work up a drool (like a dog) and grossed the girls out to the point they refused not only to sit with him, but also refused to sit in the seat he’d been sitting in when he drooled.  This caused even more trouble on the turns rotation for having the “good seat.”  I spent most of the drive yelling at the kids to shut up, and at Holden in particular for sticking his body parts out the window.  Proof I was unsuccessful:

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First view of Loch Ness!

Adam and I were scrolling through the photos when we got back home in the evening, and both remarked that Holden looks like he’s having the time of his life.  We’ll look back on these pictures with nostalgia, and not remember that when this shot was taken, every female in the family wanted to wring his neck and throw him in the Loch for Nessie.  (And it wasn’t just Holden; the girls were insufferable as well.)L1004114-M

We stopped at the Loch Ness Visitor Centre and Museum, which was a waste of time and money.  I can sum it up for you:  there is no Loch Ness monster.

All the photos from the past have been proven either to be hoaxes or tricks of the light, and extensive modern scientific equipment and exploration has proven beyond a shadow of a doubt that the ecosystem of Loch Ness can’t support animals larger than a small trout.  The Loch is open to the sea, and larger migratory fish swim in annually to spawn (salmon and sea trout), but that’s about it.  The Loch is a weird shape (very long and narrow, and incredibly deep) which makes it prone to mirages and optical illusions.

They are pretty sure that the “monsters” people have reported seeing in the past are sturgeon.  Every once in a while a sturgeon will get lost looking for a mate and swim up River Ness and end up in Loch Ness.  They are incredibly ugly and range from 6-12 feet long, and back in the olden days, people living in this region wouldn’t have been familiar with them.  Freaking out when confronted by one unexpectedly would have been a normal reaction.  They do look pretty monstrous.  Sturgeon have been pulled out of Loch Ness in modern times, so they know for certain that they end up here on rare occasions.

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One of the first submarines used to explore the Loch (and look for evidence of Nessie.)

Right down the road from the disappointing Visitor Centre is Urquhart Castle.  (It’s pronounced “Irk-it” but I spent the whole day calling it Lord Farquaad Castle.)   It’s now just a ruin, sitting right on the edge of Loch Ness.

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The kids getting to stick their fingers in the water … we’ve all touched the famous water of Loch Ness!

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John and Elaine watching everything from up above.

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This guy was demonstrating how the medieval knights dressed and fought, and what their lives were like in general.  Bottom line, life back then pretty much sucked for everybody.

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He said that swords were so expensive that only the very wealthy and Knights had them.  The only way a poorer person could get a sword was to pick one off a corpse during/after a battle.  Even then, the swords were so valuable that a peasant who managed to come by one couldn’t afford to keep it; they would sell it and get enough money to live practically for the rest of their lives.

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Holden happy to get away from his sisters.  The girls wandered off with Grandpa and Grandma.

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Holden resting on the remains of a once-mighty wall.

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Then we picked up Josie.

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Here I am on the highest point left of the Castle.

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Pretty much all that’s left of Urquhart are the foundations and some crumbling wall remnants.

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Our last stop for the day was another castle; Cawdor Castle and Gardens.  This was prominent in the 1400s and 1500s, but is still used today as a museum and residence of the current Countess of Cawdor.  The gardens were spectacular, but the interior of the house smelled like mildew.

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Secret garden gate leading to the hiking trails.

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A couple of the interior rooms; they were impressively furnished, but smelled stale and old.  This place doesn’t seem to have very good ventilation.  The ugly blue strip of carpet was the walking path for visitors, and hopefully is removed when the Countess is in residence.

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Grandpa, Josie, and Grandma enjoying the beautiful weather and gardens.

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June 9, Monday

One of the things John really wanted to do in Scotland was visit and tour a whisky distillery.  The Glenfiddich Distillery had a free tour and was open to kids, so we drove out there in the morning.

In an attempt to prevent a repeat of yesterday’s bickering, Adam decided to bribe the kids.  He promised ice cream at the end of the day to any kid who behaved well.  It worked –for awhile.  Shortly into the drive, Holden and Josie got into an argument over a video game they were playing together.  Josie was able to accept the warning and stop talking about it, but Holden couldn’t let it go.  I confiscated his iPad, thinking that if he couldn’t play, he’d stop hollering at Josie for the way she was playing.  Nope.  He hovered over her shoulder, becoming more and more incensed.  Holden didn’t get any ice cream.

The Glenfiddich Distillery is a really neat place to visit.  It’s located near Dufftown (obviously you have to say it the way Duff Man would say it; “Dufftown, oh yeah!“)

The tour is free and very good.  The company was started by a guy named William Grant back in 1887.  He, along with his 7 sons and 2 daughters, built the stone distillery by hand.  (It took them 371 days, if memory serves.)  The original buildings are still in use today, and the company itself is still owned by descendants of the Grant family.

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The Mash tanks, full of malted barley.

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Inside of an empty mash tank.  Those spiky arms stir the malted barley/water mixture.

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Then yeast is added for the fermentation process.  This guy is making sure everything is bubbling along like it should be.

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Copper stills.  It takes a craftsman 2 years to make one of these by hand.  Each still has a different shape to achieve different flavors.  This is where the alcohol is evaporated off and collected — the distillation process.

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The alcohol evaporates into those tubes and is collected in another jug.

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One of the original buildings built by William Grant and his 9 kids.  It’s now the place they store the oak casks for aging the whisky.

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Speyside Cooperage.  A cooperage is where they make casks.  The guy on the tour made sure we all knew that they did not just make barrels … a barrel is one specific size of cask.  Some of the other sizes include the hogshead, butt, and firkin.

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These guys are highly skilled and make some of the best wages in the country.  They are paid by cask completed (by the piece) rather than by the hour worked.  A good craftsman can do about 30 casks per day.  The apprenticeship takes 4 years to complete, but if someone is lucky enough to get an apprenticeship, they are paid well during the whole training period.  Once they have graduated, the pay increases and they basically have a job for life:  some of these guys have been working here for more than 50 years.

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Another view of the factory floor.  There are only three “ingredients” to each cask:  wood, metal rings, and reeds.  The wood is oak, generally imported from Tennessee.  The metal rings hold the cask together, and the reed is stuffed into the ends.  When it gets wet, it swells and creates a leakproof seal along the seams at each end.  There are no nails, glue, resins, bolts, staples, etc.  The tour guide said they are making the casks today exactly the same way they made them over 100 years ago.

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Posted in 2014 UK Summer | Leave a comment

Cornhill, 7 June 2014

June 7, Saturday

Our Scotland trip so far, for those of you who like maps to orient yourselves:

Route Summer 2014

Here is our B&B, Ardgarry, the one with the white door and the red awning.  The houses have names here.  Adam’s Land Rover actually has an off-street parking spot (score!) and there is a very nice patio/back yard area.

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This morning we drove to a town about 60 miles way to attend the Cornhill Scottish Highland Games.  Throughout the summer, communities put on Highland Games festivals. The winners of the various events move on to the national level and compete for the Queen.  We had an absolutely fabulous time.

The children competing in the Highland Dance category were astonishingly cute.

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When they weren’t dancing, they could go play on the playground.

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Our kids all got a chance to ride a bucking pig …. it’s like a bucking bronco or rodeo bull, but toned down to safe levels of heaving and it’s a pig.  They had a big clock off to one side displaying the record time someone had managed to stay on so far, so each contestant had a goal to beat.  The record was 63 seconds at the time our kids had their go.

Josie lasted 43 seconds.

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Holden stayed on 57 seconds.

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… and Isabella broke the record!  She lasted 67 seconds and was thrilled because she has a competitive streak a mile wide.  She was really bummed when we walked by a couple hours later and someone else had shattered her score with a whopping 99 seconds.

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The Highland Games, aside from the dancing and bagpipes, are basically all feats of strength.  When they erected the metal poles for measuring the who-can-throw-weights-the-highest competition, I felt like I was attending Frank Costanza’s Festivus celebration — with an aluminum pole and feats of strength, all the elements were there.

The contestants for the hammer throw. The guy in the middle with the pink knee socks kicked everyone’s butt. He was in all the Heavy Events — that guy could throw heavy things very far and very high.

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Old friends enjoying a day together.

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Elaine (in black) watching the events.

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Josie and Holden got to dress in Sumo suits and wrestle.  Josie in red, Holden in blue.

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Go!  The goal was to shove your opponent out of the white circle.

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They had 3 tries, and Holden won every round.  Josie just couldn’t compete with his heavier bodyweight.

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More adorable dancers practicing before their turn on stage.  A little tent city was set up, much like tailgating at football games in the US.  The dancers changed in the tents, and families camped out in them all day, using them for shelter against the wind, sun, and as dry places to eat picnics.  We had perfect weather today (70F and sunny) but the ground was really soggy from previous rains.

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Our three playing on the swings.

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The bagpipe band setting up.

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Tug of War.  This competition was aptly named … war.  These guys train hard for this event; it’s not just a bunch of folks grabbing a rope for a fun, light-hearted game like at the kids’ school on Field Day.  No, this is an intense battle that is exciting to watch.

They have special leather protective body gear to wear, and special shoes for digging into the mud.  At the start of the competition, each contestant much kneel on the rope while the judge/referee inspects each pair of shoes (we assume to make sure they don’t have spikes or some other form of cheating to be able to dig in better) and then each contestant has a stamp placed on their forearm to show they’ve been thoroughly inspected and passed muster.  No kind of hand gear is allowed:  bare hands only.

Each team has a coach who screams instructions during the War, so that everyone can dig in and hold at the same time, and everyone can strategically heave and tug at the same time.  There is way more power involved than you’d think and it looks hard.  L1004022-M L1004026-M

Tossing of the caber (throwing of the log).  That thing weighs approximately 150 lbs.

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Finalists in the Open Highland Dance competition.

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The lunch cart.  Elaine and I split a venison burger with cranberry chutney, and Adam ate the “Highlander” — haggis, steak and onions.

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Our three still playing on the playground.  They spent nearly the entire day here, and declared it the best day of our vacation so far.  They had a blast.

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Throwing a 56lb weight straight up in the air.  Pink socks guy won this, too.

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Another event was an 8.5 mile race through town.  We were all dressed in winter coats and spent the entire day just a wee bit chilled.  In spite of being 70F, it was quite windy.  Then the announcer said that the runners deserved an extra enthusiastic round of applause this year because they had to endure the “unusually hot weather.”

This guy ran the last bit to the finish line with his little boy … the boy was thrilled and it just melted every heart around.

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Bagpipe marching band.

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The announcer, Robbie Shepherd.  This guy is a big deal.  He has written books in Doric and is a broadcaster for BBC Radio Scotland.

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Officials conferring over results.

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Back at the house for less exotic activities.  This is the way they dry laundry here.  When it’s not raining, quick, wash the clothes!  They do have a dryer at this location, but it’s a disgusting thing sitting out in the back shed with all the spiders and mold.  It doesn’t even have a vent to the outside, so you have to keep the shed door open while hot exhaust air blasts through a gaping hole in the front of the machine.  The washing machine is in the kitchen (the common place for a washing machine in the UK) so at least you can be inside where it’s clean for that part of laundry duty.

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Scotland, 5-6 June 2014

June 5, Thursday

First thing in the morning, we headed over to Holyrood Palace since we ran out of time to see it yesterday.  It’s another castle-like museum/palace full of old treasures.  The Queen of England spends one week a year in residence here, so technically it’s still in use.  They didn’t allow photos inside, but Adam was able to take a few shots in the ruined Abbey off the end of the palace.

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The entrance to Holyrood Palace.

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View of Edinburgh with "Arthur's Seat" (hilltop) in the background.

View of Edinburgh with “Arthur’s Seat” (hilltop) in the background.

Going through the Palace didn’t take as long as we expected, so when we got out we didn’t quite know what to do with ourselves.  We ducked into Clarinda’s Tea Room for some hot chocolates and tea/coffee while so we could sit in a nice atmosphere and discuss what to do next.  The kids were finally happy — hot chocolate is wonderful; being dragged through museums and historical monuments is lame.

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Edinburgh street scene

Elaine needed a rain hat, so we did a little more quick shopping this afternoon.  Holden and Grandpa have the same amount of patience for hat shopping:  about 10 seconds.  They preferred to stand outside the shop discussing the hifalutin topics of great minds.

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…. and some more manly discussions in front of a different store.

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Guy trying to pay his bills by utilizing his talent.

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Josie found another pig.  This one pleased her because it was fake, and didn’t have a knife stabbed into the back of it’s skull.

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We spent the rest of the afternoon going through the Museum of Edinburgh and the Scottish National Gallery.  The Scottish National Gallery is an art museum, mostly paintings.  By the time we got there, the kids were already pretty museumed out.  We dragged them past all the priceless paintings by the best artists the world has ever seen, and then we got to a little room on the top floor filled with religious paintings from the early 1000s.  This was the period of time when artists painted babies and children not as they actually look, but as tiny replicas of adults.  The results are creepy and gross.

One tragically unfortunate painting depicted Baby Jesus in the center of a panel surrounded by other important religious Biblical figures.  He wasn’t a beautiful, angelic, cherubic Baby Jesus; he was a homunculus with a receding chin and an unhappy, pinched look on his face with his arm extended out, pointing belligerently at one of the other figures.  The expression on his face reminded me of this internet meme:

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I said to Isabella, “Look … Creepy Baby Jesus is yelling at someone named Phteven.”  Isabella said, “Oh … he is!” and got the giggles.  She was in a better mood through the rest of the museum because she could sit on a bench and mutter “Phteven” to herself as entertainment.  Sometimes it’s the little things that can brighten up a day.

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Josie, Isabella and I in front of The World’s End.  It’s so named because it was built along the wall that marked the edge of Edinburgh; the point at which the world ended and Edinburgh began.

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In the late afternoon, we went back to the apartment and dropped off the kids.  They were exhausted by a day of “boring museums” and just wanted to stay in, plugged into their phones and computers.  We left Isabella in charge and the 4 adults went down the street to John Knox House.

John Knox was an influential Protestant reformer during the 16th century.  He lived in this house near the end of his life and died here … and therefore the house has been preserved.  It’s the only medieval house left in Edinburgh.

Below is a photo of the ceiling of his main meeting room.  He entertained many a famous person of noble birth here.  Back in the day, this ceiling was painted in vibrant colors and very bright.  It’s faded now, but they had some example panels of what it looked like when it was new (we didn’t get any photos of them).  Overall, the house was really cramped and dark.  It didn’t seem like the kind of place a very important, influential person would have lived.  Things just weren’t very nice back then, even for the wealthy.

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Stupid picture of me.  Since the kids were back at the flat, I had to be Adam’s model.  They had an area where one could don the academic robes and hat and pretend to inscribe important thoughts with a quill pen.

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The outside view of John Knox House.  It’s the stone portion.

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One last parting shot from Edinburgh.  We don’t know what building this is, but it sure is pretty.

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 June 6, Friday

Here is a photo of Adam (finally!) doing his early morning routine.  He gets up several hours before everyone else and takes care of business.  He is not technically on vacation. Work still needs to be done every day.

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We left Edinburgh early this morning, all jammed into the Land Rover.  It was a very tight squeeze with all 7 people, plus 7 people’s worth of luggage.  Holden and Josie were crammed into the way-back with the bags, and Isabella’s suitcase would come toppling off the pile and onto Holden’s head every time we hit a bump or turned a corner.  It’s nearly a 4 hour drive from Edinburgh to Inverness.  It felt like a long, long day.

The drive is gorgeous, though.  The Scottish Highlands countryside is picturesque and well worth seeing.

We made a couple of stops:  the first was at Falkirk Wheel.  Adam wrote:  “This is an engineering marvel that my dad wanted to see – something he had read about in the past and since we were passing fairly close by, it was an obvious stop. Prior to the railroads, canals were the principal means of transportation throughout Scotland. These networks of canals still exist and are still used in industry as well as tourism. The Wheel works like a huge merry-go-round for boats – without the use of a lock, it lifts boats 79 feet up from the level of one canal to the next.”

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The next stop was Stirling Castle.  Stirling Castle was the home for several Scottish kings and queens and served as a major defensive point that separated the Scottish highlands from the lowlands. As a result of it’s location and importance, more than 6 sieges and numerous major battles took place over the centuries to gain control of this stronghold.

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They had the Great Kitchens set up with mannequins demonstrating the activities, and books on display with old recipes.  I could have spent a lot of time in this room just reading all the literature they had sitting around.  One interesting fact:  cooking was considered men’s work and women were not allowed to work in the kitchens.  The youngest apprentices were boys around 7 years of age, and they generally started out in the roasting room manually turning meat on huge spits.

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The bakery.  Every employee (the castle had 350 household employees) received in addition to their wages 1 loaf of bread and 3 pints of mead each day.  The higher-up folks got to supplement their diet with scraps from the Royal table, which included meats and vegetables.  The lowest-level folks pretty much only got their bread and mead, and as a result scurvy was a big problem.

It also said they ate their food much more heavily spiced than we do today, mostly because they needed to mask the taste of heavily salted meats.  They had two ways of preserving meats:  salting and pickling.  The pickled meats were greatly preferred, but much harder to produce.  The Royal gardens provided some vegetables, but the main diet (even of the royals) was bread, meat/fish and mead.  Vegetables — and especially fruits — were a luxury.

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The King’s Outer Hall.  Anyone who wanted to have an audience with the king was shown to this room to cool their heels while the King’s minions decided if they were worthy or not.  Most people got to sit in here waiting for hours, only to be eventually told they didn’t make the cut.  If they did make the cut, they were shown to the King’s Inner Hall to wait some more.  Getting in to see the King was tough to do.

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Elaine’s favorite story from this castle was that of John Damian, an Italian “natural philosopher” (what we would today call a scientist) who decided to make a flying machine and fly all the way to France in 1507.  He dressed up as a huge bird and leapt off the battlements of the castle (picture below.)  Miraculously he didn’t die, but only broke his leg.  He blamed the failure of his bird suit on having the wrong type of feathers.  He is now known as The Birdman of Stirling.

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View off the Lady’s Viewing Porch.  We never found out what that weird crop-circle looking thing down below was for.

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The Royal Courtyard.  They played badminton and football (soccer) here, until football was outlawed.  They decided that football incited too much violence.

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Same courtyard:  they had parsley, sage, and thyme … but no rosemary.

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One more stop at lunchtime; Tullibardine Distillery.  Adam and John both want to go on at least a couple whisky distillery tours.  We didn’t tour this one, but they did buy a bottle in the bottle shop.

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We finally got to our house around 4 p.m.  We rented a whole B&B … 6 bedrooms, 3.5 bathrooms and full amenities.  It’s glorious to have this much space, especially after the cramped conditions in Edinburgh.  Each kid gets their own private room, which cuts down dramatically on the squabbling.  We’re here for five nights and will use this as our home base for our stay in Inverness.   We asked if we could have the house all to ourselves — get the Bedrooms but not the Breakfast service — and the owner was happy to just let us be.  Heaven!

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Edinburgh, 3-4 June 2014

June 3

This morning John and Elaine are arriving, so Adam and Josie headed to the airport to pick them up.  That left Isabella, Holden and me on our own until lunchtime.

Yesterday the weather was quite nice and we bought Holden a new jacket.  (Photo in previous post.)  I also bought him a waterproof hat, which he insisted he DID NOT want.  “I’m just not a hat guy,” he said.  We had a mini-argument in the store, with me determined to get him a hat, Holden adamant that he didn’t intend to wear a hat no matter what, and Adam declaring, “I’m not wasting money on a hat he won’t wear.”

“Don’t worry,” I said, “I’ll force him to wear it.”  Then more faces and groaning from Holden.  After realizing that the hat also fits my head, we bought it.  If Holden won’t wear it, at least I can.

It should be mentioned at this point — lest I seem overbearing — that Holden has a “thing” about his head and face getting wet.  The slightest drizzle has him acting like the heavens are spitting acid at him and he’s going to melt away like the Wicked Witch.  It’s a big dramatic production every time it happens, and since we’re in Scotland where “drizzle” is a weather condition most of the time, I know that the only peace we’ll get out of Holden over the next two months is if he has a hat or umbrella to protect his noggin.

Cut to this morning: Holden, Isabella and I are about to head out for hot chocolate and breakfast pastries when we see out the window that it’s raining like an old cow pissing on a rock.  Holden says, without a trace of chagrin, “Where’s my hat?”  Suddenly he’s “a hat guy” after all.

We found a breakfast place less than a block from our apartment and had a very nice little snack.

By the time we were done, it was time to go back to the apartment and meet up with Adam, Josie, John and Elaine.  J&E didn’t have any trouble with their travel from Portland to Edinburgh, but were both pretty wiped out.  Elaine decided to take a quick nap, and the rest of us headed out to a pub for lunch.  We had a proud parent moment on the way out; the waiter said as we were leaving, “Your well-behaved children are a blessing and you’re welcome back any time!”

The rest of the day was taken up with basic chores; the dryer in our apartment is broken so we’ve been taking our laundry to a local laundry service, we needed some eaties and snacks for wine time and dinner, more toilet paper, decent tea, etc.  Those tasks took up the remainder of the afternoon, and we spent the evening eating bread and cheese and fruit and wine.

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A butcher shop next to the cheesemonger: Josie witnesses up close what happens to the Spotsies and Waddles of the world. Note the big knife sticking out of the back of the skull.

John and Elaine turned in early, and the rest of us are watching Dumb & Dumber and eating popcorn.  In spite of doing nothing touristy today, we still had a very pleasant day.

The plan right now is for everyone to get a good night of sleep so we can hit it hard tomorrow:  Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace, and lots of cashmere and whisky shopping.

June 4

Edinburgh Castle.  We were here a couple of years ago …. it’s still here and looks just about the same as last time.

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The kids are hollering into the business end of “Mons Meg”, a canon built in 1449 and given as a gift to King James II of Scotland. It was used frequently throughout the 1500s in various sieges.

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My favorite display in the castle is this one:  Bob, the (stuffed) regimental doggie who accompanied a battalion of troops to the Crimean war.

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“Bob” the regimental pet of the 1st Battalion, Scots Fusilier Guards, preserved after his death in 1860. Pets were often kept under the communal ownership of a regiment.   The regiment adopted Bob when it was based at Windsor in 1853.  A year later he accompanied it to the Crimean War where he distinguished himself by chasing cannonballs at the Battle of Inkerman. In recognition of his courage, he was awarded the special medal attached to his collar.     When the regiment was about to sail for the Crimea in 1854, an officer supervising the loading of the troopship noticed Bob and demanded to know who his owner was. As no one in particular claimed him, the order was given to throw him over the side. Before this could be done, it was hurriedly explained to the officer that Bob actually belonged to everyone. He was therefore allowed to remain on board.

 

In the display case, you can barely make out Bob.  This is the best photo we have, which is a bummer.

In the display case, you can barely make out Bob. This is the best photo we have, which is a bummer.

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Holden (wearing his rain hat!) and Isabella inspecting bag pipes.

L1003780-MCashmere shopping took longer than we expected, so Holyrood Palace will have to wait for tomorrow.

 

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England/Scotland, 1-2 June 2014

June 1, 2014 — Northumberland, England

Near the northern border of England, we visited The Holy Island and Lindisfarne Castle.

Lindisfarne is on a tidal island, only accessible at certain times of the day. For about half of the day, the tides come in and down out the roads and walking paths to the island. As such, you have to be aware of tidal activity and time your stay to make sure you can get on and then off of the island without delays.

A monastery was founded on the island in 634 and became a base for Christian evangelizing in the North of England for centuries afterwards. There were some lulls in activity after constant Viking raids in the 800s-1100s.  People got tired of being killed and decided perhaps it would be better to live elsewhere for 400 years.

In 1901, this castle had been abandoned.  Edward Hudson, the founder of Country Life magazine, went on holiday in Northumberland.  “He scaled the walls, fell in love with the deserted Castle and it’s location … and bought it from the Crown.”  He hired some Arts & Crafts designers and renovated the building into a summer home.

Today, the castle is almost exactly the same as it was circa 1910, with all of Hudson’s original furnishings (including dishes, kitchenware, bedding, etc.)  It’s basically a time capsule of a rich family’s lifestyle from the turn of the century.  They hosted quite a few famous musicians, artists and authors, including J.M. Barrie (Peter Pan), the war poet Seigfried Sassoon, and Lytton Strachley.

I’d never heard of Lytton Strachley, but he sounds like a jerk.  “He found himself so bored with the company of the other guests he resigned himself to the fact that ‘the only thing to do was get altogether drunk.'”  He also complained about the accommodations, saying that being surrounded by so much stone was bad for ones nerves, and that the stone and brick floors were so uneven that one slip could be deadly.  (Being “altogether drunk” may have had something to do with it.)

Everyone else seemed to have a good time as Hudson’s guests.  One lady, a famous cellist named Madame Suggia, would stay for weeks at a time.  Another lady, Ms. Turner, once stayed on for 8 months.

There is no vehicle access.  It seems most of these old castles require a bit of a hike.  They are also not handicap accessible.  If you can’t walk, you can’t go.

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The kitchen, exactly as it looked in 1910.  All the kitchenware belonged to the Hudsons.  It was fun to see how a castle would have actually been lived in.

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This is the Ship Room.  From what I can tell, it’s their version of a living room or family room.  They had a collection of board games, books, and other entertainments in here.

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View from one of the terraces.

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We’re not in Scotland yet, but pretty close to the border.  This guy playing the bag pipes was a busker.  Depending on the direction of the wind, you could hear him from quite a long distance away.  It made for a very neat soundtrack for the hike up to the castle.  It created an atmosphere that made you feel like you were in a period-piece movie.

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Lindisfarne Priory … or what’s left of it.  This is in the town.  In this photo, we’re all peering into an old well.

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We spent the rest of the afternoon driving to Edinburgh and checking into our new apartment.  This one is a bit of a disappointment … we rented it because Adam’s parents are joining us in two days and the description of the flat said it can accommodate 10 people.  (We’ll have 7.)

The place is very, very tiny.  We’re already cramped with 5 … but we’ll make do because the location is so fabulous.  It’s one block away from the Royal Mile and a very short walk to Edinburgh Castle.  The area is alive with restaurants, cashmere shops, whiskey shops, kilt designers, grocery stores, drug stores, post office, antique shops, books sellers, jewelers, launderettes, banks — and any other amenity you could imagine needing.

On a personal note, I always gain some weight on vacations — restaurant food, and way too much temptation in the way of treats and wine.  So, for the past few months I’ve made an effort to get to the bottom of my weight range so I’d start the trip with some wiggle room, and I came up with a plan to stay healthy while on the road.  I bought some resistance bands for exercising — they are lightweight and can be tossed into a suitcase ($12 on amazon.com), and require very little space to use.

When we’re gone for 8 weeks at a time, the “but we’re on vacation!” excuse for indulgence turns into something really ugly.  I can already tell my pants are getting tighter (ugh! how does it happen so fast??)  I’ve been slacking off with my resistance bands so far, with the justification that we’ve been doing so much walking.  Clearly I’m not going to get away with that.  Tonight I busted out the bands and did my exercises.  I really need to be disciplined about this.  Starting today.

June 2, 2014 — Edinburgh

This morning while rooting through his suitcase to find a clean pair of pants, Holden found Josie’s lost brass pig.  How it got in there is a complete mystery, but we’re all glad to have it back.  Josie has been harboring resentment towards Adam for the past 36 hours over his refusal to alter our itinerary to drive all the way back to Beamish so she could buy another one.

Here is a picture of the pig — it’s about the size of an acorn.  (It looks quite a bit larger in the photo.)  But now we have a photo to remember it by when it inevitably gets lost again.

Last summer on our USA tour, Josie had this problem with her little pocket knife.  She lost that thing over and over and over again … and to our amazement she managed to find it every time.  It would be gone for days and then turn up in the strangest places, but it never got left behind.  It’s now safely in her jewelry box at home in her room.  Maybe her phenomenally freaky good luck will hold over this summer with the brass pig.  If she makes it home with this thing, I’m going to start having Josie buy lottery tickets.

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Today was our first whole day in Edinburgh.  We wanted to avoid some of the more famous locations (Edinburgh Castle, etc.) because John and Elaine will want to see them in a couple of days.

This morning we did some shopping — new coats for Holden and Josie (Josie didn’t have a warm coat and Holden had outgrown his)– and a really nice lunch at Jamie Oliver’s Italian restaurant (called Jamie’s Italian).  Adam found a french press and some coffee to improve his mornings (he has been drinking instant up to this point) and we got a bottle of wine to enjoy after dinner.

Weird side note: for the past couple of days, I’ve been searching drug stores for a simple bottle of hydrogen peroxide.  It’s awesome for staving off zits (Isabella is 14, after all) and cleaning red wine stains out of white upholstery (my fault … the side table had a strange lip on it and caught the bottom of my glass) and I haven’t been able to find hydrogen peroxide anywhere.  Today I finally asked a pharmacist if they carried it, and she told me that it’s a prescription-only substance in the UK.  Mind. Blown.  I looked it up on the internet when I got back to the apartment and discovered that terrorists can use it for making bombs.  Mystery solved.  Terrorists ruin everything.

Having nothing else to do in the afternoon, we decided to try the Edinburgh Dungeon.  It is an elaborate haunted house, with some rides and a lot of actors doing scary bits. There is some history thrown in there as well, but it’s heavily dosed with cheesy scary items and gross descriptions.  The kids just loved it. Josie had several moments where she needed a hand to hold, and that made the visit worth the price of admission alone.

The “story” is built around several famous Scottish serial killers.  One is the story of Burke & Hare, a couple of guys who made their living illegally digging up cadavers to sell to medical schools.  In 1828, they realized that digging up graves is time consuming and hard work, and it’s much easier to just kill someone above ground.  (Plus, Hare had been run out of his own hometown because “He was always remarkable for being of a ferocious and malignant disposition, an instance of which he gave in the killing of one of his Master’s horses, which obliged him to fly to Scotland…” so there was probably an element of fun in the murdering for him, which would have been sadly missing in just digging up the previously deceased.)

These two had a schtick going where they would find desperate-looking people after closing time and offer them a stiff drink and a bed, free of charge.  Once they had the victim in their apartment, they would keep pouring the whiskey until the victim passed out.  Then one guy would pinch the nose and mouth shut while the other would sit on the chest, smothering the person … leaving a perfect, unmarked and unwounded body for the medical school.  It was known as “burking.”  They finally got caught after their 16th victim.

Another story was of the Sawney Bean family.  They were a clan of incestuous cannibals living in a series of caves.  They would murder and eat travelers, and legend has it they killed well over a hundred people.

(From wikipedia:)  “…it was not long before King James VI of Scotland (later James I of England) heard of the atrocities and decided to lead a manhunt with a team of 400 men and several bloodhounds. They soon found the Beans’ previously overlooked cave in Bennane Head. The cave was scattered with human remains, having been the scene of many murders and cannibalistic acts.

The clan was captured alive and taken in chains to the Tolbooth Jail in Edinburgh, then transferred to Leith or Glasgow where they were promptly executed without trial; the men had their genitalia cut off, hands and feet severed and were allowed to bleed to death; the women and children, after watching the men die, were burned alive.”

In the Edinburgh Dungeon, they have actors tell these stories (and several others) and do things like dissect a fake body in a replica of an 1820s medical operating theatre.  They pull out all the intestines and slimy internal organs until they get to the bladder, and then ask the audience “aaaand what does a bladder contain?”  When some kid (in our case, Holden) calls out, “The bladder contains urine!” the actor squeezes the bladder, freshly pulled from the corpse, and squirts “urine” all over the audience while yelling, “And it looks like it’s still fuuuullllllll! *cackle cackle cackle*.”  It’s exactly the kind of thing that really brings history to life for the kids.

The final act of the Dungeon is to strap everyone into a mini Tower of Terror to give you a sense of what it would feel like to be hanged.  They snap a picture at the most stomach-lurching point of the drop (like they do for roller coasters) to capture everyone’s shocked and terrified faces.  It was the very best freaked-out-face photo we’ve ever seen.  The only problem is that they wanted £9 (US$15) for the picture.  We’d already paid £50 (US$83) to get in and were feeling like they should have included the photo in the price of admission.  At the very least, they could have charged something like £2 and still well covered their costs in paper and printer ink.  Anyway, we don’t have the photo.  We’ll have to be content with our memories of a fun time.

Some basic iPhone pics from today, since Adam didn’t carry the good camera ….

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Photo below: In Jamie’s Italian.  I want a huge rack full of dried garlic, peppers, onions, and herbs in my own kitchen.  If I thought I could get away with it, my kitchen would look like a voodoo witch’s secret spell-making arboretum.   The only reason it doesn’t is that I’m worried about dust.  Nobody wants dusty garlic.

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In case you can’t read the toilet tank [below], it says “Crapper’s valveless waste preventer.”  It was the coolest toilet tank we’ve ever seen.  (The flushing handle is right there in the middle.)  Holden couldn’t believe a toilet tank had the word Crapper on it.  This provided me the opportunity to regale the kids with factoids about Thomas Crapper.  I really want one of these for my house.

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Holden and Josie modeling their new coats.  Both by Barbour … Josie loves hers because (real quote) “It reminds me of grandma’s jacket.” She’s anxious to show it off to grandma when they get to the airport tomorrow.  Holden’s is their waxed fabric line, which makes it virtually waterproof and very warm.  Most important to Holden, it has tons of pockets to hold all his stuff.  He carries lots of stuff.

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England, 31 May 2014

(Adam’s write-up):  We first visited Alnwick Castle in Northumbria (NE66 1NQ)

This castle is now most famous as the site (both exterior shots and interior) for the Hogwarts School of Harry Potter fame.

Alnwick Castle is the home of the Percy family (currently owned by the 12th Duke of Northumberland) and has been in their possession for more than 700 years. Alnwick (pronounced “annick”) is the 2nd largest inhabited castle in England (after Windsor).

The place is lavishly furnished. They provided us access to one floor of the castle. It was strange to see 16th century paintings by Tintoretto and Titian next to family photos of weddings and reunions taken just a few years ago. If you had to be born to the ruling class, this seems like the way to go about it properly. No photos were allowed within the residence, but they did have enough things to do out of doors to keep the kids entertained – including a falconry show, lessons on how to ride a Quidditch broomstick, a dungeon and several smallish museums that were parts of the private collections of previous Earls and Dukes of Northumberland through the years.

(Brenda’s write-up):  It is rather difficult to recognize this castle as the setting for Hogwarts.  In the films, the castle has been so heavily CGIed that it doesn’t look much like the real thing anymore.  Nevertheless, it is a very neat castle and has a long, famous history beyond it’s use in Harry Potter.

It said at the castle that it is possible one of the Percy ancestors (prior to living in the castle) was the true author of the epic poem Beowulf.  Henry Percy — better known by the name given to him by his enemies due to the eagerness with which he would ride into battle: Harry ‘Hotspur’ — was one of Shakespeare’s most famous characters in Henry IV, Part 1.

My favorite story, though, was of one of the Percy men slaying a dragon.  According to him, he fought the beast and kept wounding it, but the dragon would fly back to a lake and dip it’s tail in.  The regenerative power of the magic lake healed the dragon’s wounds.  Percy, being the brilliant tactician that he was, managed to position himself between the magic lake and the dragon, preventing the dragon from being able to regenerate himself.  That being done, Percy made quick work of the dragon and killed it without further ado.  He swears ’tis true.  L1003636

As far as we can tell, the falconry field is the Quidditch Field.  Here you can see (barely) a hawk grabbing a hunk of meat at the end of a nylon line.

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The statues at the top of the castle had a purpose; they were supposed to look like intimidating armed soldiers to any would-be bad guys approaching by sea.  They were basically human scarecrows, and apparently they worked really well.

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Holden and Josie sitting with a fake soldier.   He was keeping watch, making sure nobody sketchy got too close to the castle.

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Holden and Josie on the catwalk, watching the amateur archery competition in progress down below.

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(Adam’s write-up):  After lunch, we drove over to the seaside down of Craster (NE66 3TW). Our original plan was to drive from Craster down the coast back towards our house and just see what we see. However, just north of Craster was the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle. We almost didn’t visit and that would have been a shame. This was easily the highlight of the day.

To get to Dunstanburgh Castle, you have to make almost a 2 mile walk (each way) from the nearest parking. The views were gorgeous – the ocean on our right and fields of sheep and cows to our left.

By the time we arrived at the castle a fog moved rapidly moved in and limited our visibility beyond 50 feet. It gave the place a creepy, isolated feel that accentuated the scary aspects of the ruins. The kids just loved the place – they could climb anywhere they pleased and run about exploring the grounds.

Dunstanburgh Castle is thick with history – erected in 1313, and it played prominent roles in several wars against Scotland as well as several battles during the War of the Roses. By the mid-1700’s, the castles purpose and history were behind it and it was left alone for the next several hundred years.

(Brenda’s comments):  The beginning of a new era … Isabella is now 2 1/2 inches taller than I am (at last measure) and it shows in all the photos.  I’m being overshadowed.  Literally.

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When we started the hike, we had a fantastic view of the castle off in the distance.  Within minutes, a fog rolled in and completely obscured it.  It’s amazing how utterly disappeared it was, and hard to convey how otherworldly the experience felt.

When Isabella was three years old, a barista at Starbucks gave her a tiny sheep finger puppet.  Isabella loved that thing and took it everywhere for years.  She called it Baby Meep.  This is lambing season, and there are baby meeps in every field as far as the eye can see.

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We finally got close enough to see the outline through the fog.

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The kids loved this castle.  They all three declared it’s the best castle we’ve ever been to, owing to the fact that it’s in ruins and the proprietors don’t care if you climb everywhere.  There are lots of climbing spots here.

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Josie loves this photo because Adam didn’t get the floor in the frame.  She’s only about 15 inches off the ground, but it looks like she’s scaled the castle walls in an epic Laura Croft-style adventure.

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Under different circumstances, this would have been a spectacular view of the ocean.  The fog was so thick we couldn’t see it, but could hear it very well.  It was an eerie sensation.

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Leaving the main building and heading over to the cliff where they had another lookout tower and gate house.

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It really is built onto the side of a cliff.  It said the area facing the ocean was at one time filled in enough to flood with water, which reflected the imposing tower and looked freaky from an ocean perspective.  They were all about scaring away seafaring bad guys.

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Starting the 2 mile hike back to the car.  The castle is quickly becoming ghosty….

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… and then nearly completely gone.

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Stopping on the way back to inspect tide pools.  Josie is dumping sand out of her shoe.

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Wouldn’t you know it, the fog begins to lift as we leave.

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Absolutely stunning views.  This is one of the most fun hiking/walking experiences we’ve ever had.

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Yesterday at Beamish, Josie bought a little handmade brass pig.  It’s about the size of an acorn and she spent £2.99 of her own money on it.  She wanted it to be her lucky pig, much the same way people will have a lucky coin.  It appears that her “lucky” pig is the first casualty of the trip.  That thing is gone.  We spent forever this evening scouring through the house looking for it, including me out searching the car in my pajamas at 10:00 p.m.  We’ll have another look tomorrow morning while we’re packing up to leave, but I’m not very optimistic about finding it.  I have a feeling it fell out of her pocket while she was climbing castle walls or chasing baby meeps through the fields.  It’s also possible that it’s in a tide pool somewhere.

Tomorrow morning we head back to Edinburgh.  We’ll be spending at least two weeks in Scotland and possibly going from there to Ireland.  This may well be our last day in England for quite some time.

Posted in 2014 UK Summer | Leave a comment

England, 29-30 May 2014

May 29, 2014

We finally have possession again of Adam’s finished Land Rover!  This has been an almost three-year-in-the-making project.

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We’ve realized after years of experimentation that staying in houses is much nicer than staying in hotels, and often a less expensive option.  We’ve rented a house in County Durham for four days.  It’s in a small town near the mechanic who has been restoring Adam’s car.

Our first couple of days were taken up with car business … returning the rental, getting our car taxed and registered, working out the insurance, etc.  We finally have all that worked out, are in possession of the Land Rover, and are now officially on vacation.  We have 8 full weeks to spend exploring Northern England, Scotland, and (possibly) Ireland.  We don’t have our itinerary set much past the next 10 days.  Adam’s parents are meeting up with us in Edinburgh in a few days … we’ve rented a house for all 7 of us and will have a week to “do” Scotland with John and Elaine.  After that, our schedule is wide open.

One of the nicest things about renting a house instead of a hotel is that you get a full kitchen.  By the end of each day, we’re usually tired and none of us really want to go sit in a restaurant for a long dinner, so being able to just make sandwiches or eat take-out is fantastic (not to mention cheaper).  L1003535

Another huge benefit is getting lots of room.  The key to five people (three of them children) being able to spend 8 weeks on the road and not kill each other is having space to get away from each other at the end of each day.   L1003538

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Kids have to share a bedroom, though.

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View out our front window.  It’s a gorgeous setting.

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Horse riding trails at the end of our block.  We looked up the prices of some of the homes in our row that are for sale; a three-bedroom is going for roughly £150,000  ($240,000).

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May 30, 2014

(Adam’s write-up):  Today we visited Beamish – a 300 acre outdoor “open museum” that has preserved several small towns and working areas to show typical Durham County daily life in 1913, 1943 and 1825. This is the same museum that Jim, Arge and I visited last October – but this time we had much better weather and the full day to see everything at our own pace. The kids really enjoyed getting out and exploring around. Everything in the towns are “hands on” and allow you to snoop into actual houses and shops as they would have been set out in each time period. People dressed up in period clothing (a la Williamsburg) give you color commentary about what life was like and how it contrasts with contemporary living.

View of the Beamish Pit Village, frozen in time to 1913.

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Demonstration of how they weighed the coal carts.  The full cart is parked on a metal platform connected to a big scale.  The kids are pushing on the cart to see if they can make it register as heavier.  This behavior by the coal miners was grounds for dismissal.

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The town’s industry centered around coal mining. The kids got their first up chance to not only see a mine (they’ve done this before) but to play with the coal and see how it was used 100 years ago.

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Lunch break … for employees and working dogs, too.

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Example of the things for sale in the grocery store.

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Holden at the school house – 3 room building covering all grades K-12.

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The school house had an astounding number of exhibits of taxidermy exotic animals, minerals, cotton, cocoa beans, poisonous snakes, skeletons, bones, etc.  It looked like they put a real emphasis on the natural sciences.   They also had old-fashioned ink wells and pens out for people to try.

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Trying to figure out the hoop in the schoolyard.

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Playing Quoits.  It’s very much like horseshoes, but played with a circle of rope.  You try to toss the rope circles onto that metal nub.

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Coal carts.

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The town has many working farms and lots of animals.  This is lambing season, so they had lots of really cute babies to see.

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More farm equipment.

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View of the Pockerley Manor Farm – first construction dates back to the late 1400’s, but the house we toured was finished (and shown) as it was in 1825.

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At the 1825 house.  The kids got to try writing with quill and ink, and were able to see just how much better the metal nib pens were in the 1913 school house.

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View of the pantry.

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Woman demonstrating how to cook the old-fashioned way.

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They let people have rides on a recreated Stevenson 1825 steam engine.

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It’s hard to see in this picture, but the pig has sky-blue eyes.  I’ve never seen such pretty eyes on a pig.

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You can scratch an itchy blue-eyed pig (background by the fence) and then listen to a guy play some kind of mini-bagpipe.

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Entertainment, 1825 style.  The oddly-proportioned man and the guitar lady sang while the younger woman did a modified tap dance on that wooden platform.  The lady in the middle really wasn’t much to look at, but she was a pretty darn good musician.

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Posted in 2014 UK Summer | 1 Comment

Renaissance Festival, April 2014

Georgia hosts a Renaissance Festival each spring that has turned out to be very well done and lots of fun.  We’ve gone for several years and have always had a great time.  This year my parents are in town during spring, so we took them on our annual family outing.

It was hot (82°) and sunny, which means liberal sunscreen applications to everyone in the parking lot.

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Spinning demonstration.

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People really get into the costumes.  Below is the Royal Party … the King and Queen (with their retinue of various servants) preside over the festival activities, such as the jousting tournament and the pet costume contest.  They parade through the park looking regal and are announced by a brigade of guys playing trumpets.

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Dad talking to another spinner.

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Don’t have a costume?  No problem.  They were for sale all over the park.

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Festival goers oohing and ahhing over one of the contestants for the pet costume contest.

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Josie getting an archery lesson.

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Game of Thrones had a huge influence on the consume selections for this year.  We saw a lot of dogs dressed as dragons, and many people (mostly men) dressed as People of the North.  The guys draped in layers of fur started looking pretty droopy as the day got hotter.

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If you can climb this ladder and ring a bell at the top, you win $10.  All three kids gave it a try.  Here is Josie thinking her chances are pretty good …

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…and then not so much.

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Holden certain he can out-perform his little sister, and he almost made it, but didn’t.

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Second try was worse.

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Isabella, thinking “I got this!”

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“Whoa!”

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Jousting tournament.  The lady introduced the knights and kept score of their points.  You can sort of see the stand in the background where the King and Queen get to sit.

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Jousting. Ultimately the guy with the red pole won, but it was really close.  I never did figure out how they keep score.  Points are awarded for style, where you hit the other opponent, whether or not you drop your pole after you’ve been hit, whether or not you lose your shield, etc.

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Time for turkey legs, a la King Henry VIII.  Josie is Lady Sansa.

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Holden is more of a wildling. L1003422

Marshmallow catapults.

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Time for a break in the hammock chairs.

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Holden bought an ax.

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Josie trying to dunk this guy.

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More contestants for the pet contest.  This guy doesn’t look like he’s much enjoying himself.

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A jester (off camera) told jokes to entertain the audience while the pets got into position for the judging.  Sample joke:  “What kind of dog does magic?  A labracadabrador.”

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Jester is the guy in green and orange behind my dad.  Isabella is wearing Grandpa’s hat.

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Then she finally noticed Adam was sneaking her picture.

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This lady was wearing a fairly typical costume, except for the hair pieces.  It’s hard to see in the photo, but she used Slim Jims as hair stix.

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Set decoration around the park.

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Time for a frozen lemonade break.

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Last thing:  Isabella tried her hand at throwing knives.  You got 5 knives and won a prize if you could get one to stick on the blue shield.  Every knife we saw thrown (by Isabella and everyone else) bounced off the wall, except for the guy running the booth.  He could do it and make it look easy.  It must be a really hard skill to learn.

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We’re already looking forward to going again next year … it’s a very well-done festival and we always have a fantastic day.   Isabella is already thinking ahead a few years and wondering how she could score herself a festival summer job.  They had girls dressed in neat costumes whose job it was to wander around the park singing old-timey songs.  She figures getting paid to dress up and sing sounds like a pretty sweet deal.

 

Posted in 2014 | Leave a comment

Washington, D.C. April 2014

(Written by Adam.)

We have just returned from a week-long driving trip to Washington D.C.

It is an easy two-day journey from Atlanta. We drove up with my folks last weekend and spent 4 days in the city. Mom & Dad flew home from D.C. while the 5 of us returned by car.

I didn’t send out photos each day of our happenings because I forgot to bring a small computer adapter that allows me to save my photos on my laptop – so it had to wait until we were home to look at the photos.

First visit was to the Smithsonian American History museum. This is a room full of generators and magnets, all developed in the late 19th century. L1003037 City in a real Chicago Transit Authority bus from the 1940s.L1003040 Lots of hair in front of the White House.L1003059 Walking along the National Mall – for those who have been here, you know that it is about 5 miles between each building and/or monument. Everyone wore out their feet this visit, but we had fantastic weather to enjoy the long strolls.L1003068 At the new World War II memorial.L1003071 L1003072 Construction going on at the Washington Monument, construction and maintenance going on along the Reflecting Pool – getting ready for the summer crowds.L1003080 Running up the steps to the Lincoln Memorial. (Others walking a bit more slowly, behind…)L1003085 L1003088 Isabella getting her photo taken with the Gettysburg Address for her History class.L1003091 Holden noted that it sure seems like we have been in a lot of wars.  This is the Korean War Memorial.L1003095 Vietnam War MemorialL1003099 Arlington National Cemetery There are now more than 400,000 people buried here, and from 27-30 additional burials take place each day.L1003109 Robert E. Lee’s house – which was taken over to make the cemetery. The table on the left is where Lee signed his resignation letter from the U.S. Army, three days before taking up command of the Virginia state forces.L1003128 L1003131 Mast of the USS Maine, which exploded and sunk under mysterious circumstances in Havana harbor, 1898. It now serves as a memorial and gravemarker for 166 soldiers who died that day. They were moved and reinterred beneath the monument.L1003135 L1003137 Isabella standing in front of the Judith Henry house on the site of the First Battle of Bull Run. This was a special visit for Isabella, because she has been studying this battle in her History class. She has an assignment to write a report of the battle, and she knew she would get extra special credit for actually going there and providing picture proof. Isabella knew about Judith Henry (the first civilian to die in the Civil War) and she got a kick out of seeing the house and the surrounding grounds where both sides fought at such close quarters.L1003140 Confederate graveyard near Manassas.L1003157 L1003159 Looking up inside the US Capitol Rotunda – “The Apotheosis of George Washington”L1003169 Hanging out on the Capitol Hill steps.  (♬ “I’m just a bill; Yes, I’m only a bill; And I’m sitting here on Capitol Hill” ♪♪) L1003186 Walking through a sculpture park on our way to the National Archives to see the “big 3” – the original Declaration of Independence, Constitution and Bill of Rights.L1003205 Waiting in line at the National Archives. Brenda pulled up a video from her childhood – Schoolhouse Rock “The Preamble” (this video, in fact..) so that the kids would have a better concept of what they were looking at.L1003236 Smithsonian Natural History MuseumL1003242 Creepy-crawley exhibit.  Touch real bugs!  This is a giant grasshopper. L1003248 Josie enjoying the Smithsonian Human Origins exhibit.L1003253 Get out your nickels. Walking across Jefferson’s back yard at Monticello. After mom and dad flew home from DC on Thursday, we started our 2-day drive back. On the way, we stopped in Charlottesville, VA to spend the afternoon at Monticello and surrounding area.L1003279-2

Posted in 2014 | Leave a comment

London, 9 January 2014

9 January 2014 (Thursday)

Today was our last day.  We asked the kids what they wanted to do and everyone opted to go out for one last walk through the city.  We’re all just a little bit sad.

We walked from our flat down to Oxford Street (shopping area) then crossed over into Soho and Carnaby Street.

Cool old building.

Cool old building.

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Josie wanted to buy some lip balm. Considering that her money tends to burn holes straight through her pockets, she’s done really well on this trip. I think the only purchases she made were the Harrods pig and the handcuffs at Sherlock Holmes House. She ended up not even buying lip gloss.

Carnaby Street.  We walked over here mostly because we’ve never seen it before and it was featured on an episode of The Simpsons we saw a couple days ago.

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We ate lunch at a pub called Shakespeare’s Head (1735).  Adam finally got a meal of fish & chips.  The rest of us ate some very good English pub food — hamburgers and steak & ale pie. It seemed a fitting last meal out.

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Demolished! Proof that Adam does occasionally eat fish. Unfortunately, this is the only interior photo we have of Shakespeare’s Head.

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If anyone is interested, the above plaque reads:

The Shakespeare’s Head which was built in 1735, was originally owned by Thomas & John Shakespeare, who were distant relatives of the poet.  In its early days, the tavern stood on the boundary line that divided the lands of the Mercers Company from the Abbot of Abingdon, and nearby was a small estate known as Six Acre Fields.  During the Victorian period, the field was a site of the riding school, belonging to Major Henry Faubert, whose name is commemorated by neighbouring Faubert Place.  The present day Shakespeare’s Head overlooks Carnaby Street which was once the site of an 18th century street market & is now one of the world’s most famous shopping precincts.  Dominating the northern end is the Pub Inn Sign, which is a reproduction of Martin Droeshouts portrait of Shakespeare when the poet was at the pinnacle of his genius.  On another part of the building is Shakespeare’s life-size bust, which appears to be gazing down at the busy street below. A close examination of the bust will show one of the poet’s hands is missing.  This occurred during World War II when a bomb dropped nearby.

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Life size bust of Shakespeare with missing hand that was damaged during WWII when a bomb was dropped nearby.

One last semi-impulse purchase for Isabella.  Barbour was having a great sale on this cute purple jacket.  It made her whole day.

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We’re back in our apartment now, packing up and getting ready for an extremely early flight home tomorrow morning.  We’ll eat a quiet dinner in and go to bed early.  We have to be at the airport before the Underground trains start running, so we’ve arranged a taxi to pick us up at 5:30 a.m. here at the apartment.  It will be the first time since we left the United States that we’ve been in a car.

We’ve spent most of our conversations today talking over our past three weeks.  We’ve all had a fantastic time and agreed that this is right up there on the top of our “best vacation ever” list.  We’re all a bit subdued and a little sad this evening.  It will feel really good to be home tomorrow, though.  A magical time was had by all, but it’s time to get back to real life.  The memories of this special time will last the rest of our lives.

And, here are a few pictures from our last bird-feeding excursion yesterday evening, just to end on a slightly less mushy note.  Who knew feeding leftover bread to birds would turn out to be such fun!?

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Goodbye, London!!

Posted in 2013 London Christmas | Leave a comment

London, 7-8 January 2014

7 January 2014 (Tuesday)

“Why, Sir, you find no man, at all intellectual, who is willing to leave London. No, Sir, when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford.”
— Samuel Johnson

Today we visited the house of Samuel Johnson.  He was the first person to compile an English language dictionary.  That is the very least interesting fact about him.  The guy was a real character.

The house had been built in 1700, and Johnson lived in it during the 1750s.  The first floor rooms of the house were painted an unappealing brownish color (as seen in the photo below with the clock).  This was because the street-level floor of every house was so grimy from soot, dirt, pollution, smoke, etc. it was impossible to keep the walls clean.  The brown paint helped hide the dirt.

Here is an excellent description of what London was like in the 1700s, for anyone with a strong stomach who enjoys reading about really disgusting things and tragic child mortality.  I’ve excerpted a few passages:

London was filled with the smell of wet horses and the waste materials associated with them. Sanitation was unheard of. Water was unpurified, and raw sewage ran down city streets in open drains. It was common practice for people to empty their chamber pots out of their windows, and to leave garbage out in the street to rot. C.P. Moritz wrote in 1782, “Nothing in London makes a more detestable sight than the butchers’ stalls, especially in the neighborhood of the Tower. The guts and other refuse are all thrown on the street and set up an unbearable stink.”

An amazing variety of filth slopped down London’s cobblestone streets. Along with dirt, dust and animal manure, there was the ever-falling London rain to add to the mess. Cesspools of human waste collected in puddles everywhere. Dead animals (dogs, cats, rodents, even horses) were left to decay in the streets. In darker corners of the city, an occasional human corpse might even be found. To add to all this, horse-drawn carriages with heavy metal wheels often splashed through puddles, slopping the street’s putrid muck all over strolling pedestrians.

In 1771, Tobias Smollet wrote, “If I would drink water, I must quaff the mawkish contents of an open aqueduct, exposed to all manner of defilement, or swallow that which comes from the River Thames, impregnated with all the filth of London and Westminster. Human excrement is the least offensive part of the concrete, which is composed of all the drugs, minerals, and poisons used in mechanics and manufacture, enriched with the putrefying carcases of beasts and men, and mixed with the scourings of all the wash-tubs, kennels and common sewers within the bills of mortality.” 

Sanitation in the 1700s was simply unheard of. Private bathrooms, later known as “water closets,” did not exist until late in the century, and even then, they only appeared in the wealthiest of homes. Most London residents used chamberpots, dumping them right outside their windows. The raw sewage would accumulate and stagnate in cesspools until the night soil men came along to clear it all out.

Coal was the main source of heat and energy in 18th-century England. In 1727, more than 700,000 pounds of coal were delivered to London alone. Residences and factories, tenements and shops, all regularly belched thick clouds of black soot into the city’s air. The cinder smoke, mingled with the rank odor of the city’s decaying garbage, open sewage, and decomposing corpses, and the stench emanating from the Thames created such a powerful stink that with a proper wind, London could be smelled from several miles away.

Anyway, you get the idea.  London was really gross.  And it was against this fetid backdrop that Samuel Johnson was legendary for being an unusually unhygienic and stinky man.  Just think how bad he had to have been in order to stand out under these circumstances.  He would go for weeks without changing his clothes (meaning not only didn’t he change into a clean outfit, he didn’t take them off for sleeping or bathing.  He didn’t take them off, period.)  The museum had several painted portraits of him and asked visitors to note that Johnson was wearing the same outfit in every painting, despite the fact they were created years apart. He must have smelled like a corpse.

Samuel Johnson also had a number of psychological problems.  Likely today he would be diagnosed with either Tourette’s Syndrome or some form of obsessive-compulsive disorder, in addition to clinical depression.  He lived in fear of going mad.  After his wife died, he was so terrified of being alone that he filled his house with all manner of hangers-on and other social misfits.  These people frequently didn’t get along with each other and loud quarreling could routinely be heard coming from his house.

Poor Samuel also suffered ill health.  As a baby he had scrofula (lymph node infection, often caused by tuberculosis bacteria) and the treatment at the time was to make long cuts on his face and neck to drain out the infection.  This left him with terrible disfiguring scars all over his face and neck.  He had bad eyesight, asthma, insomnia, numerous “nervous tics,” and — later on —  gout, a stroke, a testicular tumor, and “dropsy” (edema due to congestive heart failure) which he tried to treat himself by cutting his flesh to encourage drainage.

And he was poor.  He lived in constant fear of being hauled off to debtors prison, and at one point owed so much money to the milk man that he barricaded his front door with his mattress to avoid being arrested.

In spite of his ill health, psychological problems, crippling poverty, and overwhelming stinkiness, he was wildly popular.  He knew everybody and everybody knew him.  He was beloved for his wit, brilliance, and humorous conversation; which is probably the primary reason he never ended up in jail.  It pays to have everyone you meet think you’re an awesome human being.

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Front of house. The kitchens were in the basement level during Johnson’s time, along with the coal bins and cesspit where bedpans were emptied through a hole in the floor. The basement level has since been converted into storage and public restrooms.

The brown paint was the perfect shade for hiding grime in the street-level sitting rooms.

The brown paint was the perfect shade for hiding grime in the street-level sitting rooms.  I am pointing at the clock because Adam’s dad loves clocks and I was wishing he was there to see it.

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One of the second floor rooms. You can see they have a prettier color of paint. The kids are doing a treasure hunt; they were given a list by the lady at the front desk and if they found all the items around the house, they’d get a prize.

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The wood panels on this floor were a genius design. The panels could be pulled out from the walls on either side to create different room configurations: one big open space, two larger rooms with a connecting passage, or three private rooms. It made the space very versatile.

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Third floor; bedrooms which are now being used to display some of Samuel Johnson’s works. The case contains a copy of the very first dictionary printed for the American market.

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First edition of the dictionary printed for use in America.

This last photo is of a case containing a stone from the Great Wall of China.  The plaque above it reads:

“Johnson once talked with uncommon animation of traveling into distant countries; and that an acquisition of dignity of character was derived from it.  He expressed a particular enthusiasm with respect to visiting the wall of China. I catched it for the moment, and said I really believed I should go and see the wall of China had I not children, of whom it was my duty to take care. ‘Sir, (said Johnson,) by doing so, you would do what would be of importance in raising your children to eminence. There would be a lustre reflected upon them from your spirit and curiosity. They would be at all times regarded as the children of a man who had gone to view the wall of China. I am serious, Sir.'”
— From Boswell’s Life of Dr. Johnson (1778)

This is one of our favorite discoveries on this trip because it so closely matches Adam’s and my philosophy about travel, childrearing, and life in general.  It’s always nice to find that a genius agrees with you.

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And just when I think I couldn’t like the guy any more, we came across a bronze statue of his cat, Hodge, in the courtyard with the inscription “A very fine cat indeed.”  Hodge looks a little grumpy, but has an empty oyster shell at his feet.  Wikipedia has this amusing entry about Hodge (cat):

“Although there is little known about Hodge, such as his life, his death, or any other information, what is known is Johnson’s fondness for his cat, which separated Johnson from the views held by others of the eighteenth century.  Most of the information on Hodge comes from Boswell’s account. It is in this passage that Johnson is claimed to have an affection for animals in general, or at least the ones that he kept:”

Nor would it be just, under this head, to omit the fondness which he showed for animals which he had taken under his protection. I never shall forget the indulgence with which he treated Hodge, his cat: for whom he himself used to go out and buy oysters, lest the servants having that trouble should take a dislike to the poor creature. I am, unluckily, one of those who have an antipathy to a cat, so that I am uneasy when in the room with one; and I own, I frequently suffered a good deal from the presence of this same Hodge. I recollect him one day scrambling up Dr. Johnson’s breast, apparently with much satisfaction, while my friend smiling and half-whistling, rubbed down his back, and pulled him by the tail; and when I observed he was a fine cat, saying, ‘Why yes, Sir, but I have had cats whom I liked better than this;’ and then as if perceiving Hodge to be out of countenance, adding, ‘but he is a very fine cat, a very fine cat indeed.’

Who could dislike a person who has a love for animals?  Everyone who knew Samuel Johnson liked him, and now I like him, too, despite the fact he’s been dead for more than 220 years.  In my book, that is the very epitome of a successful human being.  I feel honored to have toured through his house.

Down the road just a little ways from Johnson’s house is the original location of the R. Twinings & Co Limited (otherwise known as Twining’s Tea House) which has been there since 1706.

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That tiny building squashed in-between the big buildings is the original Twining’s Tea House.

Inside, they have a station set up where customers can sample various teas prior to buying them.  I found some “yellow tea” which I had never heard of … I have been drinking white tea for years and feel myself fairly knowledgable about tea in general, but this one took me by surprise.  Evidently, yellow tea is ever-so-lightly fermented — somewhere between white (simply steamed and dried) and green (very lightly fermented) — they must stop the fermentation process before it gets to the “green” stage.

Anyway, the girl brewed up a cup of the yellow tea for Isabella and I to try.  It was awful.  I felt bad for not liking it, though, so ended up purchasing a bag of white tea to make up for having her go to all the trouble of brewing up the icky yellow stuff.

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Next door to Twining’s was  “The George.”  It’s now a pub, but back in Samuel Johnson’s day it was a coffee house that he frequented and used as his mailing address.  (We do not know why he used The George as his mailing address; the plaque on the front of the building just told us that he did.)  We decided to eat lunch there.

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This photo of Isabella reminds me of the painting “L’Absinthe” by Edgar Degas. (That’s Adam’s beer, and Isabella is texting her friends on her phone.)

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View looking out toward the front door.  This place is a hopping pub now.  One of their featured entertainments is to have people voluntarily read from their childhood diaries.

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Josie telling a really emotional tale about how she was wronged by her brother in a Nintendo DS dispute…

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…. and then it gets even more tragic ….

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… and has a sad ending.  (Note that Holden is not feeling guilty in the least.)

Last up for the day was the Grant Zoological Museum.  It is part of the University College of London.  Founded in 1828 as a teaching collection, it’s now open to the public.  The specimens are still used by students, and the center of the room is filled with tables so people can study.

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Josie reviewing the thousands and thousands of slides of little creatures – each is a different species. The point of the exhibit was to show that the vast majority of differentiation of life in this world comes from species smaller than your fingernail.

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Lots to see.

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Studying area.

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Holden contemplating skeletons. (You can see where he bonked his nose during ice skating the other day.)

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Jars and jars full of ancient preserved specimens, in various stages of dissection.

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Lots of skeletons. The ones above are all ape … not human. (They are freakishly similar.)

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Case full of species that went extinct recently. That big skeleton is a quagga, an animal that looks a zebra/horse mix. The last one died in 1883 and only 7 skeletons exist now. The little one is a thylacine, a marsupial that looks kind of like a dog, that went extinct in 1936. They actually had real photographs of live ones next to the skeletons. It was a really neat exhibit.

January 8, 2014 (Wednesday)

Today Adam and I saw The Book of Mormon.  We absolutely loved it. I enjoyed it even more than I enjoyed Wicked, which is really saying something.  However, I’m not going to write about it here because of the controversial subject matter.

Isabella babysat the other two back our apartment and the kids said they had a fabulous afternoon, as well.  Having mama and daddy leave them alone for a few hours gives them a sense of freedom, even if all they do is play hide and seek, eat apples, and watch TV.

Tomorrow is our last day.  We’re all looking forward to going home, mostly because we miss Max, but are also a little sad about leaving.  This morning Isabella said, “I think this is the best vacation we’ve ever had” and the other two kids agreed.  Renting an apartment and staying in once place for a while seems to make a huge difference.  We’re going to incorporate that into our summer plans as much as possible.  Staying in a real house instead of a hotel provides an enormous psychological benefit.

Posted in 2013 London Christmas | Leave a comment

London, 5-6 January 2014

January 5, 2014 (Sunday)

Two years ago, we took the kids ice staking over at Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park.  We had evening tickets, so were treated to skating under all the twinkly Christmas lights, but also to massive crowds.  The kids had such a grand time that one of the things they’ve been talking about for months is the opportunity to go ice skating again this Christmas.  It’s a popular activity here and we finally got around to purchasing some tickets.

This time, Adam did a little research and discovered there is an ice rink set up in the moat around the Tower of London.  That sounded even cooler than Hyde Park.  We decided to go right when they opened at 10:00 a.m. and that really worked out well.  In the morning it was light out so we could actually see the incredible setting, and — best of all — there were very few other skaters.  Also, the kids are all two years older now so Adam and I didn’t have to spend quite as much time hovering over them.  We got to skate around with each other, holding hands and being romantic (I know, gag, the kids already told us how gross “old people” love is) and I can’t remember the last time I saw Adam having so much fun.  He kept saying, “Just look where we are!  Can you believe we’re in the moat?”

Alas, there was quite a lot of falling down.  The skates they give you are (as the Brits would say) “rubbish.”  People were going down like sacks of potatoes all over the rink.  There was a guy wearing a red uniform and high-end hockey skates in charge of helping the fallen folks off the ice, and he was one busy dude.  His official title was Ice Marshall and he was really good at his job.  If someone took a spill, he was Johnny-on-the-spot to grab an elbow and yank them to safety.

I only fell once, but it was a doozy.  Josie couldn’t skate well enough to let go of the wall but wanted to see what the middle of the rink was like (the ice was much smoother there because fewer people were chewing it up with their skates) so I held her hand and told her to just stand still and let me do the pulling.  That worked beautifully until she started moving her own feet and lost her balance.  She pulled me down with her and in my attempt not to cut her up with my own skates (or land on her) I twisted sideways and landed at a painful angle on my hip and elbow.  I’m really lucky I didn’t get hurt.  Josie just slid across the ice gently, like a little bowling ball.  The Ice Marshall pulled her up nearly before she even knew she’d fallen and had her safely clinging to the wall again.

Holden wasn’t as fortunate.  He did a pretty severe face-plant early on and spent some time recovering in the green astroturf resting area.  He got a big bruise across the bridge of his nose but thankfully didn’t get a nose bleed.  Isabella did a bunch of falling, too, and banged up her knees pretty badly.  Adam didn’t fall, but I teased him that it’s only because he spent a bunch of time standing on the astroturf taking videos with his phone.

In the end, it was one of the most fun things we’ve done on this vacation.  In spite of the falling and bruising, we all left energized and excited and wishing we had just a little more time on the ice.  The only thing that would make it a better experience is having your own good-quality skates.

They don’t allow cameras on the ice but Adam was able to take a few shots before we started, and got a few little videos on his phone.

(Here is a short video of us skating that I’m only including because I don’t look fat in it.)

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Ice rink in the moat around the Tower of London before they opened.

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Not too many people … yay!

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Breakfast at the Starbucks across from the Tower of London. We had bacon butties. They were not very good. (We ordered them because they are always eating bacon butties in the show “The Royle Family” and we were curious.)

After skating, we went on a walking tour through the oldest part of London.  It’s now mainly a financial district (Bank of England, etc. is over there) and, being Sunday morning, everything in sight was closed and nearly deserted.  We had the city to ourselves.

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Walking along the Thames … Tower Bridge in background.

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Some kind of modern art. It’s probably famous and important, but I don’t know anything about it.

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Leadenhall Market – dates back to the 1300s

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The Swiss Re Building (nicknamed “The Gherkin” but we call it the Bullet Building)

Tate Modern Museum was our last stop of the day.  They have some really incredible works by Picasso, Miro, Pollock, Dali, etc. if you like that sort of thing (which I do, so so much; the kids do not.)

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Walkway into the Tate Modern Museum, St. Paul’s Cathedral in distance.

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Bubble art in front of Tate Modern Museum.

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“Hey kids, turn your heads and you can see a Picasso!”
“Nah. We’re good.”

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Jackson Pollock, an artist Holden can finally appreciate.

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January 6, 2013 (Monday)

We had planned to go Samuel Johnson’s house (guy who compiled the first English dictionary, before Webster) and the Grant Museum of Zoology today, but never made it out of the apartment.  The zoology museum doesn’t open until 1:00 p.m. so we weren’t in any hurry to get going in the morning.  Everyone was lounging around in their pajamas reading and playing games.  Someone would say, “Maybe we should think about getting dressed and going out?” and everyone else would say, “OK … but let me just finish this one chapter/game.”

Before we knew it, it was 2:00 p.m. already and Adam was the only one dressed.  At that point we decided to quit pretending we were going out and just embrace the day in.  Adam ended up walking over to Starbucks with Josie, because she was the only other person willing to put on pants.

A few days ago Adam downloaded the complete set of Sherlock Holmes stories so we’ve been reading those, in order of publication.  I’ve polished off three of them, and am wondering why I never bothered to read them before.  I love all the movies and shows, but just never got around to reading the original stories.

I highly recommend reading them.  They shed a lot of light on the TV shows (Elementary and Sherlock) as well as the Robert Downey Jr. films.  I didn’t know, for example, that Sherlock Holmes was a cocaine user in the original books.  (That explains the premise of “Elementary,” although in the original books Sherlock was a recreational user when he didn’t have a case to work and was not an addict.)

“…My mind rebels at stagnation. Give me problems, give me work, give me the most abstruse cryptogram, or the most intricate analysis, and I am in my own proper atmosphere. I can dispense then with artificial stimulants. But I abhor the dull routine of existence. I crave for mental exaltation…”

– Sherlock Holmes, ‘The Sign of Four’

 According to the museum we visited the other day, cocaine was a brand new drug in the 1890s and being touted as a cure for depression, as well as a “sportsman’s alternative to alcohol” because it didn’t impair one’s ability to stay on a horse or shoot straight.  London was full of well-educated cocaine users for awhile, until the down side of cocaine addiction started to reveal itself and it began to fall out of favor.  Sherlock uses both cocaine and morphine to stave off boredom and depression between cases.  (None of these drugs  — opium, cocaine, heroin, morphine, laudanum — were illegal at the time.)

Anyway, we had a very nice day of reading and relaxation, with a different type of education.  It was a nice change of pace.  We’ll get back out and hit the pavement again tomorrow all rested up.

Posted in 2013 London Christmas | 1 Comment

London, 3-4 January 2014

3 January 2014 (Friday)

The weather was quite bad today, so we searched for indoor activities.  We settled on revisiting the British Museum.  We’ve been there a number of times, but still haven’t seen all of it (not even close) and admission is free.  It really is a remarkable museum, especially their Ancient Egypt section.  Although a word of caution:  show up in the morning.  After lunch, you’ll face a very long line just to enter the building.  We have near-allergic reactions to lines; if we have to wait more than about 10 minutes, we don’t bother.  If the wait to get into a building is that long, the massive crowds inside will ruin the experience.  Combat viewing stinks.  This is why we’ve been to Paris twice and yet still have not been inside the Louvre.

Anyway, we trucked through the British Museum pretty quickly today.  Isabella and I have both been suffering insomnia and as a result, sleeping in too long, so we got a late start.  We showed up at the museum around 11:30 a.m. and walked right in, but 30 minutes later the crowds had started to arrive.  We quickly got claustrophobicized out.   (That’s a word we made up years ago:  as in, “It’s way too crowded in here and I can’t breathe, I’m claustrophobicized.  I have to get out of here NOW.”)  I suggest anyone wishing to really explore this museum to show up right when they open at 10:00 a.m.  It’s worth it, and our experience has been that people in London typically don’t get early starts.  An early bird can have the city to himself for a couple hours.

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That thing in front of me that looks like a giant playing card is actually an ancient Persian tombstone made of hand painted ceramic.

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Holden studying up on Persian artifacts.

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Chased out of the British Museum by crowds of people, we headed over to the Household Cavalry Museum.  This is the home of the House Guards – England’s most elite cavalry unit, that goes back to the mid 1600s.  These guys hit their zenith at the Battle of Waterloo, but suffered quite a bit at Ypres.  Now, they are largely ornamental, but do have some units serving in Afghanistan and Iraq.  The kids enjoyed dressing up and seeing some of the actual horses.

Traditionally, serving in the Household Cavalry was an honor reserved only for the aristocracy.  One was expected to lead a certain lifestyle; for example, one had to own at least two horses, supply one’s own uniforms, and a bunch of other rich-guy stuff I can’t remember.  The pay for these positions was purposely very low, such that nobody would be able to meet the requirements without a substantial source of private income.  The bottom line was that these guys were body guards for the King or Queen and the royals didn’t want riff-raff hanging around.  Nowadays they recruit from all over the country and take guys who prove up to the task even if they aren’t aristocrats.  (Although I think coming from the “right” family still gives a person a leg up.)

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Example of the ceremonial uniforms. It takes a soldier more than 10 hours to polish everything (including his horse and “horse furniture” — the saddle, etc.) and then a ranking Officer comes in to inspect. The soldier who earns the highest marks gets to ride in the front of the procession, and the poor guy who earns last place gets his horse taken away and has to walk behind everyone else on foot.

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One of the Royal Musician uniforms. This has been largely unchanged since the mid-1600s. (I can’t remember the exact year.) All that gold is actual gold thread/wire woven into a filigree-type netting.

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One of the cool areas, they had small replica uniforms available for kids to try on.

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Even so, a bit too big for Josie. Those helmets are custom fitted to each soldier: even a little too loose and they flop backwards, and even a smidge too tight and they cause massive headaches.

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Teenage Isabella; glued to her phone.

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Another musicians uniform.

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Various helmets and swords.

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The entrances are still guarded; two foot guards and two mounted guards. This guy looked about the same age as Isabella … such a young guy!

On the way home, we witnessed a bum fight in one of the tube stations.  It freaked me right the heck out.  One guy was playing guitar for money and the other guy … well, I have no idea what his problem was.  We heard them shouting at each other when we entered the tunnel, and by the time we rounded the corner and could see them, their confrontation had devolved into screaming “Fuck you!” at each other.  Those tunnels magnify sound, which is one of the reason musicians go down there to play.  “Fuck you!” was echoing off the walls at full volume.

I was scared it was about to get physical and couldn’t decide if it was better to race past them or turn around and find a different tube station.  Adam just barreled through, though, so I didn’t have much choice but to grab Holden and Josie and make a run for it.

When they were safely behind us, all three kids burst out at the same time with “OMG, did you hear the bad word?  Did you hear it?  Mama, did you hear what they were saying?  Those bums said a naughty word!”  They were scandalized!  Stumbling into bad words always seems to tickle the kids.  They giggled about that for hours.  I was just relieved it was over and nobody got hurt.

January 4, 2014 (Saturday)

We resolved to get up early today and walk over to the Sherlock Holmes Museum right at 9:30 a.m. when they open their doors.  We’ve been meaning to do this since we got here, but the line is always so long every time we walk by that we say, “We’ll just show up tomorrow right when they open” and then don’t wake up in time.  So, today was the day.  With some effort, we got there at 9:30 on the dot.

Aaaand still had to wait in line.  This is a popular place.

Sherlock Holmes’s residence was, of course, fictional.  What they’ve done is turn an actual Victorian-era lodging house into an amazingly accurate rendition of what Sherlock’s home would have looked like had it been real.  They scoured through every story Arthur Conan Doyle wrote and meticulously recreated it, even up to the number of steps from the street into Sherlock’s rooms (17 steps, in case you’re interested, and yes, I counted them.)  The result is an accurate look at what a Victorian gentlemen’s lodging house was like in real life.

Adam did the best he could with photos, but the light was very low and they didn’t allow flash.

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Guard in front of the door.

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Sherlock’s bedroom in foreground, looking into the study (the next room)

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The study, overlooking Baker Street

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Another shot of Sherlock’s bedroom. His bed is in the lower left corner — very small bed.

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An area in Sherlock’s study where people can dress up and pose by the fire.

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Hats, pipes, and magnifying glass … what else does one need?

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Watson’s bedroom. He was rocking his own private toilet/bedpan thingy. It had a lid you could close and everything.

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Mrs. Hudson’s room. She was the landlord.

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More Mrs. Hudson’s room.

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The ONLY toilet and sink with running water in the entire house. (The kitchen was presumably where the ticket office now is.) There wasn’t a shower or bathtub in the place. We have absolutely no idea how they bathed. And even this little bathroom was all by itself on the 4th floor attic room, and had the look of something that was added on. I think in the original boarding house this would have just been attic storage space they repurposed when indoor plumbing came along.

This place also had a phenomenal gift shop.  Gift shops are usually pretty lame and full of overpriced junk, but this one had some really cool stuff.  Josie bought a pair of working handcuffs for £5 and Holden found a policeman’s whistle for £3.  They had magnifying glasses (good ones), tea sets, hats, pipes, walking sticks, leather-bound copies of Arthur Conan Doyle’s complete works, and other assorted items from the Sherlock stories like copies of his Stradivarius violin and severed thumbs.

With Sherlock being our theme for the day, we took a 20 minute walk over to Euston (next neighborhood over from Marylebone) to see the filming location that represents Sherlock and Watson’s house in the current BBC series.  (They couldn’t use the real 221 Baker Street because it’s the museum.)

That black door right next to Speedy’s is Sherlock’s door.  The real address is 187 North Gower Street, but for filming they replace the address numbers with 221B.  Speedy’s Sandwich Shop is also featured in the series.  I was a little bit star-struck:  Benedict Cumberbatch stood right here!  He’s touched this doorknob!

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Here I am pointing at the door. Many women had planted lipstick-kiss prints all over it.  I did not, because that’s kind of gross.

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The kids, who have not seen the show, saying, “Why are we standing out here in the street staring at a door?”

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The kids having deep discussions about Pokemon while waiting for the train.

Another location featured in the BBC Sherlock series is London’s Chinatown.  It’s right off Piccadilly Circus.  We’d gone through there a few days ago (I bought some really good tea) but hadn’t realized it was also a filming location.  We had to go back to Piccadilly Circus in order to visit a hat shop Adam wanted to see, so we took a small detour back through Chinatown to find Fung Shui Inn.  Neither of us can remember seeing this spot in the show and we want to watch the whole series again from the beginning.  I think this was a location in Season 1 episode 1.  Anyway, we found it.

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Entering Chinatown.

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Shop selling roasted ducks (with head still on, eyeballs still in) and squid.

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That red building behind the kids is Fung Shui Inn. It’s a restaurant.  This is another case of them having no idea why they are standing in front of something for a photo op besides “Mama said so.”

Our Sherlock tour is now over.  On to other things, like running into this Beretta gun store.  It was very, very fancy.  Adam and Isabella went in to look at a Silver Pigeon shotgun (the kind of gun they’ve been using for Isabella’s skeet shooting lessons) while I stayed outside with Holden and Josie.  These aren’t the kind of stores we’re comfortable barging into with three kids in tow and an obvious inability to purchase anything they sell.

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Beretta Gun Store

A little further along is The Ritz Hotel.  It’s one of the fanciest hotels in the entire world.  We pressed our noses up against the windows to look at their jewelry, but didn’t go inside.

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Adam’s write-up:

We shopped all afternoon, but didn’t buy a thing, which made me happy.  In truth, it was Brenda who had to put the brakes on me.  We stopped in at a fantastic Beretta building – 4 stories full of shotguns and related merchandise.  We walked down Jermyn Street, right next to Savile Row, and looked into the windows of the fancy clothiers.  We also stopped at Lock & Co, famous haberdashery in the same location since 1676.  I tried a couple of hats on and Brenda told me that I looked either (a: gay or b: trying too hard) so we left without the hat.

We then walked back toward our flat, stopping in at Grey’s Antique Centre that Brenda had discovered in a previous visit.  That place has some amazing antiques, but everything is far more expensive than you would guess and certainly more than you’re willing to spend.

Then… back to home for wine time.  Everyone was tired, footsore and had to go potty.  That’s the sign it’s time to return.  Weather was wet and dark today, we managed to avoid two rainstorms while eating indoors, but definitely did a lot of puddle-jumping all over London.

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London, 31 Dec 2013 –2 January 2014

December 31, 2013 (New Year’s Eve Day)

Wicked was such a magical experience that I’ve put off writing about it for three days because I can’t think of what to say to do it justice.  I finally realized that I can’t do it justice.  There is no substitute for a live theater experience.

The kids were mesmerized, particularly Isabella.  Her choir performed the song “Popular” last year, so she already knew all the words, and had heard several of the other numbers before, as well.  She thought she knew what to expect going into the performance.

She had no idea how powerful a really well-done live performance can be, and this was the best one I’ve ever seen.  The woman playing the wicked witch, Elphaba, is Willemijn Verkaik.  She’s a Dutch actress who has performed the roll over 1000 times since 2007, and is the only actress to have performed Wicked in three different languages (German, Dutch, and English.)  She is probably the most talented singer I’ve ever heard.  The rest of the cast was excellent as well, but none of them came even close to her level.

At the end of Act 1, they perform “Defying Gravity”; Elphaba is hoisted far above the stage and her voice reaches through your body and grabs onto your soul.  You feel only what she wants you to feel; you are no longer master of your own emotions.  Elphaba has somehow taken complete control of your mind.  Then BAM! the theater goes black and BAM! the curtain falls and the entire audience sits in stunned silence for a couple of beats; then erupts into foot-stomping thunderous applause.  You’ve been emotionally violated, and yet feel lucky all at the same time; how can one little green painted woman cast such a powerful spell over 2,300 people?

At this point I thought the play was over.  “Defying Gravity” packed the sort of punch I associate with the grand finale at a fireworks display.  I started to exit the building and an employee called out, “Madame, do you have your ticket stub?  You’ll need it to get back in.”    Like the little country mouse that I am, I stupidly said, “Why do I need to get back in?”  She said, “Don’t you want to see Act 2?”

“There’s an Act 2?  It’s not over?”  Isabella, standing right behind me (and who also thought the play was over) said with breathless hope in her voice, “Wait … you mean there’s MORE?”  We raced back to our seats.

When it was over for real and we left the theater, Isabella said “I’ve found a new passion.”  Holden and Josie enjoyed themselves, too, but for Isabella I think it was one of those life-changing experiences that opens up whole new worlds.  For that alone, it was worth every single penny.

Back at our apartment, we ate dinner in because all the restaurants were packed with New Year’s Eve celebrators.  We thought we’d have a quiet evening, but when midnight hit the entire city erupted in fireworks.  From our bedroom windows we could see the fireworks display being set off over the London Eye (or, for Chevy Chase fans, over near Big Ben and Parliament.)

We had one of those rare magical days where everything exceeds expectations.  It was a beautiful way to end 2013.

January 1, 2014 (New Year’s Day)

We planned a day in for New Year.  Two years ago, we were in Paris for New Year and had a heavy day of sightseeing planned.  To my horror, the entire city was a giant vomitorium.  I didn’t want to risk getting in any of the tube cars this time around, so we figured we’d walk over to the park and feed the birds as our one little entertainment.  It would also be nice to have a day where we spent no money — we didn’t have Wicked factored into our original plans, which was very expensive and we hadn’t budgeted for it — so a free day sounded excellent.

Unfortunately, it rained all day and was quite windy.  We did march over to the park, but both Holden’s and Josie’s umbrellas flipped inside-out and broke.  Isabella was using the umbrella that belonged to the people who own this apartment and it was much higher quality … but she put it on a park bench so she could use both hands to feed birds and a guy stole it.  (In his defense, it probably looked like it had been abandoned; he likely was struggling through the inclement weather and thought, “Oh! What a stroke of luck on New Year’s Day for me!”)  So, we informed Isabella that she’s responsible for buying a new one because it was her carelessness that lost it.  We’ve seen that type of umbrella around town and they cost roughly £20 ($30) and she was plenty mad about that.  She was feeling like 2014 was not off to a very good start, especially after having such a perfect day yesterday.

By accident, Adam and I discovered that Sherlock (Series 3) was premiering tonight on BBC 1.  Two years ago, at the end of Series 2, Sherlock committed suicide by jumping off a building.  Fans were shocked; we watched him splat!  The internet has been abuzz ever since with speculation about how the writers were going to explain Sherlock’s resurrection.  Tonight we’ll finally be able to find out!

I should mention at this point that our apartment is two streets over from Baker Street.  We pass 221B Baker Street every day on our way to the local Starbucks, which in Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s day was a fictional address but now is a Sherlock Holmes museum.  (We keep meaning to go, but the line is always dauntingly long.)  We are living for these three weeks right in Sherlock Holmes’s stomping grounds.

So, back to the series 3 premiere;  (don’t worry, NO spoilers!) a goodly portion of the episode was filmed right in this neighborhood (Marylebone).  We kept seeing stuff we recognized and were freaking out …. it made it so much more fun to watch!  We almost need to watch it again to pay attention to the story because we were so focused on the location of each shot it was hard to follow the dialogue. Never have we been so sad not to have DVR capability.  We wanted so badly to hit pause and really go over each frame with a fine-tooth comb. Luckily it airs in the US on January 19.  We’ll be home by then and able to record it for a right proper viewing.

The second episode is airing on Sunday (Jan 5th) so we’ll get to see that one, too, before we go back home.  The entire season only has 3 episodes (they are each 90 minutes long — which they air with no commercials or breaks … wish I’d known that, too, because I had to pee and kept waiting for a commercial.  It finally dawned on me there weren’t going to be any.)  We’ll have to wait several months to see the last episode.

January 2, 2014

Today was the London Zoo.  It’s very nice, as far as zoos go.  You are all familiar with the zoo concept, so here are a few pics.

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Eastern White Pelicans. These birds are enormous, and turn pink every spring at the start of breeding season. They have the most un-bird-like voice — they sound like pigs grunting or bears growling.

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Posted in 2013 London Christmas | 1 Comment

London, Dec 28-30, 2013

December 28 (Saturday)

The Underground tunnels are a great place to get entertainment ideas.  Posters for all the West End theatrical productions line the escalator walls, so we got the idea to introduce the kids to live theater via Seussical The Musical.  We bought some matinee tickets online and headed into the West End for a kid-friendly 11:00 a.m. showing.

Isabella has gotten really into chorus over the past three years, even winning a few solos for her school concerts, and earning the highest All State audition score for her entire school.  We thought she’d appreciate all the work and skill that goes into a production like this, and a nice glimpse into what a singing career might look like.  Most people who are into the performing arts don’t become rock stars; they end up (if they are lucky) working on productions such as these.

We showed up 45 minutes early and got our tickets.  The doors wouldn’t open for another half hour, so we went down the street to kill some time in a cafe.

Holden and Josie were already less enthused than Isabella was about seeing the play because they’ve been forced to sit through Isabella’s school concerts from time to time.  It was in this cafe, though, that those two finally got around to asking, “What exactly is it that we’re doing now?”  I started explaining the story and it finally dawned on Holden that it was a musical, in spite of us repeating the phrase “Seussical The Musical” for three days.  “Wait a minute … you’re telling me that the whole thing is singing?”
“Yup, probably almost all of it.”
“How do they tell the story then?”
“Though songs.  You have to listen to the words.”
What?!  NO!  Why are you punishing us?”

Inside the theater, the stage was not what I expected at all.  It was tiny.  The entire auditorium was probably less than 1/3rd the size of the auditorium at Isabella’s middle school.  If one were so inclined, one could hawk a loogie from our seats into the middle of the stage.  The set reminded me of the storytime areas in public libraries.  I whispered to Adam, “I think this might have been a mistake.”  

The production turned out to be very well done.  The singing was excellent, and yet the props and stage sets were pretty minimal and required a lot of imagination on the part of the viewers (which was essentially the point of the whole play; “Oh the thinks you can think up if only you try.”)  Adam and I sat there in the dark thinking the kids were going to hate it because it lacked whizbangery.  I spent the entire second act getting ready to hiss at the kids, “Shhhhhh, no talking until we get out of the theater” because I was terrified one of them was going to loudly announce “That was SO LAME!” the minute the house lights came up.

Instead, Holden grabbed my arm and said, “Wow!  That was really good!  I didn’t know it was going to be that good!  That was so good!  I can’t believe how good that was!”  Josie was equally ebullient.  Isabella didn’t say anything until we got outside, and then said, “That.  Was.  AWESOME!  Can we see another one?  Pleeeeeeease?! Oh please?”

We headed across the street to an English pub called The Porcupine for lunch.  All three kids were still begging to see another play and discussion of Seussical was the main topic all through our meal.

Long story short:  we have tickets to see Wicked on Dec 31 and Adam and I have tickets (just for the two of us) to see The Book of Mormon on Jan 8.  Isabella will babysit.

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Killing time in a cafe before the show.

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Josie, dressed in her best “Dr. Seuss” outfit. She’s ready!

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Teeny tiny stage, and the entire cast. This is what they call “an intimate theater.” (The guy playing Cat in the Hat was exceptionally good.)

After lunch we popped into the London Portrait Museum.  As the name suggests, it’s a museum filled with people’s portraits.  We buzzed through pretty quickly.

Then it was back home early enough to feed the park birds.  I’d been feeling bad about giving them all that bread, so we stopped at a grocery store on the way over and I bought a bag of popcorn to hand out instead.

The birds didn’t like it.

"You brought me bread??  Oh.  Popcorn.  Nope."

“You brought me bread?? Oh. Popcorn. Nope.”

December 29 (Sunday)

First up was the Victoria & Albert Museum.  It had some great exhibits, but we rushed through at Mayse speed.  They have a neat section of jewelry and silver … Holden was actually pretty interested in how they crafted the silver things.  (That little guy pays a lot more attention in museums than I ever expect, as long as they aren’t painting museums.  He is profoundly uninterested in paintings.)

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Holden studying up on silver works.

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Jewelry and gem exhibit.

We found a restaurant near the museum called Thai Square and had a fabulous lunch.

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Squirrels and pigeons in Hyde Park. We love squirrels and pigeons.

We then wandered through Hyde Park to visit Speaker’s Corner – where the nutjobs get up on ladders and speak out about any subject – politics, religion, whatever.  They are only allowed to speak on Sunday afternoons, so we went by to see what we were missing  (nothing…)  There were only four Speakers; three Christians hollering about Jesus, and one Muslim guy hollering about not-Jesus.  We were hoping to hear something interesting about alien abductions or about how the government secretly implants tracking devices with every vaccination or something, but no.  Just your run-of-the-mill religious fanatics.  They were definitely nutjobs, but in a really boring, plebeian way.  They didn’t have anything to say that hasn’t already been said a billion times.

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One of the Jesus freaks. Oh, and BTW, he also appreciated donations. I know this because he kept hollering, “Jesus appreciates your donations!”

More walking, and we stumbled into London’s version of Chinatown.  I found a tea shop that sells real tea and stocked up.  Score!  (Britain is always linked with tea drinking, but they don’t have what I consider real tea here.  It’s always a bag filled with the dust they sweep off the tea factory floor.  Whole, loose-leaf tea is hard to come by.)

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Back at the apartment, the best part of our day revealed itself.  Adam was sitting at the kitchen table on his computer and said, “Oh.  We have a mouse.”  I thought he was talking about a Youtube video so I stood up to go see it, and he said “You just scared him away.”

We have a real mouse!  There is a gap between the baseboards under the kitchen sink, and the cutest little mouse pops out to snatch crumbs off the floor.  Adam said, “I’ll send an email to the rental company letting them know they have a rodent problem” but Josie was already on the floor shoving bits of pretzel into the hole.  “You can’t do that!” she said.  “They’ll put out poison!”  After some arguing about what to do, Adam lost.

We now feed the mouse.  I know we shouldn’t.  It’s irresponsible, etc etc etc.  But he’s cute, and we don’t live here so it’s ultimately not our problem.  We’ll enjoy having a “pet” for the next couple of weeks.  (Until I find mouse turds on the kitchen counter … then all bets are off.)

December 30 (Monday)

Today was a dismal failure.  We took 3 different trains to get to Canary Wharf, which turned out to be nothing more than a giant underground mall.  We ate lunch in a Spanish restaurant that looked really fancy, but served sub-par food for outrageous prices.  Both the city and the trains were more crowded than we’ve yet experienced … we stopped at Harrods on the way home, thinking that Monday afternoon would be a decent time to check out the sales, but we got trapped in claustrophobic crowds.  Making it even a more miserable experience, Harrods insists on cranking up the heat so high you can’t breathe.

It’s as though the population of the city tripled overnight.  What happened?!

The only glimmering bright spot in the day was stumbling upon a Crockett & Jones where Adam was able to buy the very last pair of Islay boots in his size in all of London … he had to put the money down in advance to hold them, and they will be delivered to that location by tomorrow morning.  We can pick them up before heading over to see Wicked.

We retreated to our apartment late in the afternoon and were never so glad to be out of the fray.  Our evening’s entertainment is putting crumbs of various foods by the mouse hole and placing bets on how long it takes for Mouse to dart out and grab it.  (It takes him a long time to come out for cheese, but mere moments if the offering is a flake of corn chip.)  Prediction:  I will not be the only fat creature in this apartment by the end of our vacation.

Adam only took eight photos today and they were all lame.  I won’t bother posting any of them.

Tomorrow is New Year’s Eve day, and Wicked.  We’re looking forward to that.  With any luck, today will be our low spot … every vacation has to have one day that qualifies as the least-best.  I hope this was ours.

Posted in 2013 London Christmas | 1 Comment

London, Dec 26-27, 2013

Boxing Day (December 26)

Boxing Day in England is roughly the equivalent of Black Friday in the United States.  Shops open early and plaster “SALE NOW ON!” signs everywhere.  I don’t think it’s quite as crazy (or as potentially dangerous) as the Black Friday mobs in the US, but people do turn out in droves to scour the after-Christmas sales for half-off treasures.

Our original plan for the day was to visit Canary Wharf, but when we got to the tube station we learned that the Jubilee line was closed until Dec 31.  We could have still gotten there, but it would have required about 4 train changes, so we decided to just wait until they get the grey line up and running again.  We went with our back-up plan, to visit the high-end shops on Bond Street and meander over to Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park.

Bond Street is a place where one can buy a nice outfit at Hermes and then hop across the street to purchase a Bugatti.  It’s cool to see, but so high-end we didn’t feel comfortable going into any of the shops.

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Bentley, anyone?

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This ugly thing is apparently worth more than $1 million. (When I say stuff like that, Adam shakes his head sadly and says, “You just don’t get it.”)

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It was around this time that we spotted a really good-looking noodle shop, but it was only 11:30 a.m. and for the sake of spacing our meals appropriately throughout the day, we decided to wait at least until noon before finding a place to eat.  This turned out to be a mistake.  Every other restaurant was closed for Boxing Day.  We walked for miles and miles, headed in the general direction of Hyde Park.  Not a single open place to eat!

We finally straggled into Hyde Park starving, grumpy, and cold.  Holden had descended into one of his Captain Obvious repetitive loops of uncontrollable whining (“But I’m cold!  But I’m hungry!”  “We know, Holden. Complaining isn’t doing any good.”  “But I’m cold!  But I’m hungry!”  “We’ll get something to eat as soon as we find a place that’s open.”  “But I’m cold!  But I’m hungry!”  The other four of us simultaneously: “Ohmygod, SHUUUUUT UUUUUUP!”)  

Hyde Park hosts Winter Wonderland each year, which is kind of like a Christmas-themed county fair.  They have food and drinks, ice skating, rides, little musical shows, and booths filled with handmade stuff to buy, like candles and knitted hats.

We entered the park at the wrong end and had to hike around the entire Winter Wonderland pavilion to get to the front gate.  Desperate for food, we hit up the first booth we came to; a place called “Old English Hotdog.”  They sold hotdogs and hamburgers grilled on a huge round open pit with a grate thrown across the top.  We should have taken a clue from the name:  hotdogs are neither English nor old, and they left off the word “Ye.”  Anyone who has ever been to a Renaissance Fair knows that a self-respecting old-timey business would have named itself “Ye Olde English Sausage Shoppe.”

Holden ordered a hotdog and the rest of us hamburgers.  I’ve probably eaten a worse hamburger in my lifetime, but can’t think of when that might have been.  It had a funky taste I couldn’t place.  I wasn’t sure if it was a spice that should never be associated with hamburgers, if the wood they were using to smoke the meat was something I’ve never encountered, or if the beef was going bad.  After a few more bites, I wasn’t even sure it was beef.  I said to Adam, “I think this might be minced lamb.  Did they say it was beef?”  Isabella laughed and said, “It’s probably horse meat!”  It was supposed to be a joke, but just putting the thought out there ruined what was left of our appetites.  Adam was mad because those terrible burgers were around $7.50 each.  He choked his down growling, “I paid for em, you’re eatin’ em!”  Smug little Holden said, “My hotdog is excellent.”

Trying to get warm.

Trying to get warm.

"Old English Hotdogs" fire pit.

“Old English Hotdog” fire pit.

Cold, grey day.

Cold, grey day.

Next up was a cart that sold chestnuts roasted over an open fire.  That’s something the kids have always wanted to try, so we bought a little packet of them.  They were good, but nothing special.  I pulled a Cliff Clavin and reminded the kids that chestnuts are the only tree nut that contains vitamin C, and they accused me of ruining the experience by turning them from a treat into a health food.

After that, we found a booth selling hot chocolate, tea, and spiced mulled wine.  That was finally a big winner.  The “hot drinking chocolate” came with “whip and a curl” which turned out to be a mountain of whipped cream topped with a 3-inch long stick of chocolate.  I had tea.  Adam ordered a spiced mulled wine, which is served hot in a dixie cup.  He’d heard of mulled wine all his life and wanted to try it.  It was only OK … very sweet and syrupy.  I didn’t like it and neither did he, but after awhile he declared that it “grew on you” and finished it all.  The chocolates were £3.50 each and the mulled wine was £4.00 (for around 5 oz serving.)

My advice to anyone wishing to attend the Hyde Park Winter Wonderland is to eat before you go.  Admission is free and the arts and crafts are reasonably priced, but be forewarned that if you plan to eat there, you should bring some lube and prepare to bend over.

Chestnuts roasted over an open fire.

Peeling the chestnuts roasted over an open fire.

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Finally something good; hot chocolate!

Finally something good; hot chocolate!

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View of the fairway.

On the way back to the flat, we had to change trains at Piccadilly Circus.  There is a cafe we like near the tube station (across from the Apollo Theater) so we hopped off for a quick bite of something better than mystery-meat burgers.

The only way we ever get a photo of Adam.

The only way we ever get a photo of Adam; mirrors.

And finally a picture of all of us together (sort of).

And finally a picture of all of us together (sort of).

More hot chocolate.  One can never have too much hot chocolate.

More hot chocolate. One can never have too much hot chocolate.

Crazy line of people waiting for their turn at the Ugg store.

Boxing Day shopping:  Crazy line of people waiting for their turn at the Ugg store.

Later in the afternoon, we returned to Regent’s Park for more bird feeding.  This is clearly going to be something we do on a regular basis for the duration of our stay.  It’s so fun!  (I will find something healthier to serve than bread.  Bread isn’t very good for birds, but is what we’ve had available.)

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December 27, 2013

Adam’s big goal today was to visit The Whiskey Exchange, which we learned about from a billboard in the subway tunnels.  It’s over by London Bridge, on the east part of the city.  Also on that tube stop were a farmer’s market and, just a little further on, Shakespeare’s Globe Theater.

The farmer’s market was a big disappointment.  You exit the tube station and are dumped almost directly into it, but when we arrived at 11:30 a.m. almost all the stalls were still closed.

One of the only open stalls.  Holden wanted to buy grapefruits,  but nobody was willing to carry them around all day.

One of the only open stalls. Holden wanted to buy grapefruits, but nobody was willing to carry them around all day.

We turned down an old alley, following signs to The Whisky Exchange, and ran into The Clink Prison Museum, England’s oldest prison dating back to 1144.  The signs out front declared, “The Clink, the prison that gave it’s name to all others!” and featured a very cute cartoon rat welcoming children and school groups.  We thought, How interesting and fun for kids, too! and bought tickets.

And thus we entered the most disturbing and gory museum we’ve ever seen.  The cute little cartoon rat told us all about the most vile and wretched things human beings have ever done to each other.  We learned, for example, that a popular torture was to shove a funnel down a prisoner’s throat and fill his (or her) belly with enough water, bile or urine to rupture their stomach, causing a very slow and painful death.  If the torturers were in a sporting mood, they would fill the person almost to bursting — but not quite — and then punch them in the stomach until they puked, so the treatment could be repeated over and over until it became boring.

Trials were no picnic, either.  If a person was accused of a crime, the “trial” was generally to injure the accused and see how well they healed.  It was fairly straightforward — good healing/God says you’re innocent; infection/God says you’re guilty.  A common method was to force the person to reach into a pot of boiling water to retrieve an object at the bottom.  Then the judge would monitor the burns.  If the person had not healed within three days, they were deemed guilty.  Then, into the Clink!!

The worst fate a prisoner could face was being thrown in The Hole.  Another name for the Hole was the oubliette, from the French word oublier, meaning “to forget.”  It was called thusly because prisoners would be thrown in there and … out-of-sight, out-of-mind.  The warden tended to forget who was in there.  The Hole was, as the name suggests, a hole in the floor of the prison.  When the Thames flooded (which happened frequently) The Hole would fill with “raw sewage and swimming rats.”  The wretched souls trapped down there would become so waterlogged that after a few days their flesh would literally fall off their bodies.  Almost nobody survived their turn in the Hole.

Raw sewage and rats plagued the rest of the prison, too.  Most people sentenced to Clink Prison died of dysentary, typhoid, malaria, and other diseases … if they didn’t die from starvation, drowning in sewage, or torture first.

Both men and women were held there.  If a woman had children, the children were housed with her in the prison.  Since the kids were not guilty of crimes, they were allowed to come and go as they pleased.  Generally, their job was to go out and scrounge food for themselves and their mother.  Children were considered adults at 7 years old and kicked out to fend for themselves.

The entire area around the prison was poverty-stricken and of ill repute.  Prostitution was big business, and also a very dangerous profession for the women.  They had very short life spans.  Prostitutes were not allowed to have Christian burials, so there was a huge pit on unconsecrated ground nearby where their bodies were dumped and covered in lime.  Archeologists fairly recently began digging through this pit.  They had photos of layers upon layers of bones piled 8 feet deep, like a morbid baklava.  Around half the bones were of women aged 35 and under, and the other half were children, babies, and aborted fetuses.

Life was brutal and short.  No one valued children at all; one of the women sentenced in the prison was a midwife who, for a fee, would make sure a baby was “stillborn.”  When authorities finally caught on to what service she was actually providing (due to the number of babies turning up the Thames), they searched her home and found it reeked of decay.  She had so many bodies in her house she couldn’t dispose of them all.  She pled guilty to just one murder and was given a death sentence, but they estimate she probably killed over 400 babies.  If that number is correct, it makes her one of the most prolific serial killers in history.

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Here you can see the cute little cartoon rat, cheerfully listing all the torture devices in spite of the fact he’s locked into a ball and chain.

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Being chained to a wall was one of the ways they kept prisoners from escaping. You can see on the wall behind Holden the water line. When the Thames flooded, sewage went up to that mark and would stay there for days.

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The Hole (with wretched prisoner, just so you can get an idea what it must have been like.)

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The torture chair was designed to hold prisoners in place while various forms of punishment were carried out. The most gruesome chairs had five hundred sharp spikes covering the back and seat.

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Cute cartoon rat generously offers kids a chance to try out torture devices. Josie is in The Boot: a prisoner’s foot was wedged into this iron boot with wood blocks. Then water was poured in, causing the wood to swell up and crush the foot. And just to make sure you were punished enough, The Boot was often held over a fire. Most people subjected to The Boot could only survive by amputating their foot.

One trip through The Clink Prison Museum will cure anyone of feeling like the world today is going to hell in a hand basket.  I know our modern world still has problems (some of them pretty significant) but it’s not even in the same ballpark as England in the 1100-1300 years.  As the tour guide at The Globe Theater would tell us later that afternoon, very few people made it to adulthood back then.  The ones who did survive had a pretty bleak time of it.

Next up was the Whiskey Exchange.  Adam went in by himself and I stayed out in the lobby with the kids.  He said it was awesome.  I wouldn’t know.

Down the street from The Clink is The Golden Hinde, a replica of Sir Francis Drake’s galleon.  He circumnavigated the globe in an unbelievably tiny ship.  We didn’t go in because it was fairly expensive and looked so small.  Right in front of it, however, is a plaque detailing the history of St Mary Overie’s dock.  Her story was interesting.

Legend has it that Mary’s father, the ferryman guarding what was the only entrance into London at the time, was wealthy but a terrible cheapskate.  He decided to fake his own death, thinking that his family and servants would fast for a day or two out of sadness and respect, thereby saving him the cost of feeding them.  This plan backfired in a big way.  Instead of being sad, everyone was overjoyed to hear of his death and started feasting and “making merry.”  The old miser became enraged when he heard the festivities and got up to yell at everyone.  Seeing what they believed to be his reanimated corpse tromping around, people freaked out and screamed the old-timey equivalent of “Zombie!” and bashed his skull in with an oar.  Then he was dead for real.  His daughter, Mary, sent urgent word to her fiancee to quickly come help her deal with the whole mess, but in his rush he fell off his horse, broke his neck, and died.  Mary then used all her money to build a convent “into which she retreated.”  (I guess she was done with men!) She was eventually made into a Saint for her generous contributions to the church.  It’s called the Southwark Cathedral and is right behind The Golden Hinde.

The Golden Hinde

The Golden Hinde

Just a little ways down the road is The Globe Theater, a replica of the original theater Shakespeare used.  (The first Globe burned down when they shot off a canon during one of the plays and the thatched roof caught fire; the second Globe was torn down by disapproving Puritans trying to root out sin.)  The current iteration of The Globe is the only building in London permitted to be made of wood and have a thatched roof.

Josie waiting for our tour to begin.

Josie waiting for our tour to begin.  She’s terrified this will be “so boring I’ll die.”

Entertainment:  a sword-fighting lesson.  Real students, real teacher.

Entertainment while we wait: a sword-fighting lesson. Real students, real teacher.

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The stage.

In the photo below, you can see the seating.  The theater is open air over “the pit,” which is the  standing-room only area in front of the stage.  Back in Shakespeare’s day, a spot in the pit cost 1 penny.  You had to stand, and if it started raining, you got wet.  The next level of seating was up in the stands, and cost 2 pence, but you got to sit on a bench and stay dry.  The best seats were on either side of the stage (with the painted scenes; they’re the private boxes) and those cost 6 pence.  People liked those seats best because they could hear the play better (the word “audience” comes from Latin “to hear”) and, as our guide told us, people back then were much more keen on hearing a play rather than on seeing a play.  They were less visual than we are today.  Anyway, the other big benefit of the box seats was they were out of the stink zone.  The air circulation was such that the stench of the pit people was less disagreeable in those spots.

Today tickets are sold based on these old prices.  1 penny is roughly the equivalent of £5.  Tickets for the pit are now £5, the bench seats are £10, and the boxes are £30.  Our guide said it’s the best deal in London for seeing a live play.

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The boxes with scenes painted in them were the good seats.

The boxes with scenes painted in them were the good seats.

Seating, and a view of the thatched roof.

Seating, and a view of the thatched roof.

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It was a long day, and when we finally got back to the flat it was too late to go feed the park birds.  I changed into my pajamas and collapsed on the couch, saying, “It feels so good to get out of those jeans and sit down!”  Josie looked over at me and said, “Whoa. Mama, you’re getting a tiny bit fat.”  What?!  I looked to Adam for help, but he just shrugged uncomfortably and said, “Welllllllll….”

Groan.  It’s the dreaded Travel Bloat, and it happens every time we go somewhere.  I even planned ahead and made sure that I was at the very bottom of my acceptable weight range before we left home, so that by the end of our 3 weeks I’d still be able to fit into my pants.  I worked really, really hard and ate a lot of kale.

Sadly, I’ve gained my 3-week allotment in six days.  We don’t have a scale here, but my clothes are getting “a tiny bit” tight.  I was hoping nobody would notice since we’re always in bulky coats and scarves.  Oh well.  It was fun while it lasted.  Food party is now over … I shall be more vigilant starting tomorrow.  Maybe it’s not too late to turn this ship around!

Posted in 2013 London Christmas | 2 Comments

London; Dec 22-25, 2013

Merry Christmas, everyone!

The entire city of London is closed today (Christmas Day), so I have some time to sit down and write a little.  It’s nice to have a day to relax and just hang out with no agenda.

Our travel from Atlanta to London was as smooth as could be.

Due to a slight snafu on someone else’s part, we were driven to the airport in a white stretch limo.  We got to feel like high-rollers before we ever left our state and figured it was an auspicious beginning for our travels.  What a way to set the tone!  Lines at Atlanta’s new International terminal were short; our flight was on time.  Everything was going so well that when I reached my seat and realized the people directly behind us had a baby, I figured that was the big catch.  Crying baby for 8 hours!  But no … the little guy slept the entire flight.  The mother looked like one of the Kardashians and was seated in First Class.  For some reason Grandpa was stuck in coach with the baby.  Mama would saunter back every once in a while to check on things, then retreat back to the hot towels and reclining seats in the winner’s section.  How did she manage to pull that off?  The baby not only slept the entire flight, he slept through the whole landing, too.  Relieved Grandpa disembarked with a still-sleeping baby.

We had a whopping 5 suitcases plus 5 large carry-ons in total.  Our next hurdle was to get that huge mountain of luggage onto the Tube without losing a family member, and make it to our rented apartment in Marylebone.  I’d been stressing over this part of the journey for weeks.  I needn’t have worried.  The Underground has a stop right across from Heathrow’s baggage claim area; by far the best and easiest public transportation from an airport I’ve ever seen.  Grab your bag, hop on the train.  Voila!

Adam and I have both fallen in love with England.  We’ve been contemplating living here, at least part-time, once Josie graduates from high school in 9 years.  However, we learned a hard lesson about living in foreign countries when we moved to Mexico back in 2001; despite a great attitude and good intentions, it can nevertheless end up being a miserable nightmare.

We wanted to have more of a living experience (rather than a tourist experience) before considering a larger commitment; being the planners that we are, a 9-year advance scouting party isn’t too early.  We are not spontaneous people.  (Contrary to the old adage “The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry,” we’ve found that the best laid plans — with a little wiggle room for adjustment and an excellent escape plan if things go bad — almost always pay huge dividends.  Forewarned is forearmed! )  So, this Christmas we decided to rent an apartment and just live for 21 days in London to see how it goes.  Cooking, grocery shopping, dealing with the garbage collection and weird laundry facilities don’t sound like important issues, but can end up being deal breakers when every day-to-day task is an exercise in frustration.

The apartment is pretty cool.  It’s tiny, but 4 stories high.  They call it a flat, but it’s more of a steep spiral staircase with wide landings and old, sloping floors.  There isn’t a flat surface to be seen.  There are 2 bedrooms and a potty on the 4th floor that could all fit into Isabella’s room at home.  The third floor is the master bedroom and the real bathroom.  Second floor is tiny living room (only one TV in the whole place, we’ll see how that works out) and a small but fully-stocked kitchen.  The first floor is just an entrance and small hall to hang coats on pegs.  The total square footage of the entire 4-floor flat is probably equivalent to just one floor of our house at home.  And yet, this place is worth more than US$1 million. Location is everything.

Despite our easy travel day, we arrived feeling half dead.  It was only 9:00 a.m. but the girls and I decided to take naps anyway.  Holden and Adam opted to push through until bedtime.  The two boys went out and explored the neighborhood, found a couple of grocery stores and bought some provisions for the apartment.

They made the right decision; come bedtime, the girls and I were unable to go to sleep while the two of them zonked right out.  I drank a couple glasses of wine to help relax, but my jet-lag caused the wine to start a headache.  I took an Advil to combat the headache, and the Advil almost immediately upset my stomach.  I found some tea in the kitchen to settle my tummy, but it had a higher caffeine content than I expected.  Oh, the horror … I’d entered into an Elvisian drug spiral, unable to reach equilibrium.  There was nothing left to do but drink a big glass of water in hopes of detoxing myself.  I went to bed, miserable, to wait it out.

Anyone who regularly suffers insomnia knows that every problem is orders of magnitude worse at 3 a.m.  There I was in bed in a strange country, staring at someone else’s ceiling, convinced I was one Midol tablet away from needing rehab and a new liver.  I was equally convinced I was worthy of neither.  Midnight is the witching hour; 3 a.m. is the hour of self-loathing.

I finally fell asleep, and the next thing I knew Adam was waking me up at 10:00 a.m.  What a glorious, exciting day we had in store!  A few hours of solid sleep and some daylight work miracles on one’s outlook about life.

Entrance, coat & shoe hall

Entrance, coat & shoe hall

Main floor; kitchen and living room

Main floor; kitchen and living room

We had all the foodstuffs for making a full English breakfast, but I quickly discovered some glaring equipment holes in the fully-stocked kitchen.  No cooking oil; no salt; no frying pan; no spatula.  I tried to fry eggs in the bottom of an old flaky wok with a wooden spoon.  We abandoned our itinerary for the day:  instead of visiting Selfridges and Harrods, we went looking for a kitchen supply store near our apartment.

I wanted a cast iron frying pan and a decent spatula.  We did find a kitchen supply shop (which was also a hardware store) but they didn’t carry cast-iron cookware (“I’m very sorry, Madame, but no”) and had a very limited number of other choices.  I ended up buying a ceramic-coated non-stick skillet.  I’d seen them before, but have never used one, and wasn’t particularly happy about it.  It wasn’t cheap, either (£30 = US$50) but I was desperate.

Best! Pan! Ever!  It can’t beat good old-fashioned cast iron in the frying of bacon, but it’s far and away the best egg pan I’ve ever used.  Clark Griswold’s non-caloric silicon-based kitchen lubricant has nothing on this pan.  Zing!

Finally got the breakfast routine worked out.

Finally got the breakfast routine worked out.

[Side Note:  The fridge and the oven are both made by a company called Smeg.  Never heard of it, but it was specifically mentioned in the brochure as a point of pride so it must be really awesome.

Neither of us can figure out how to work these appliances.  Lights come on for no reason and then mysteriously turn off when you want them most; the degrees are all in Celsius; the controls have strange icons that may or may not represent snowflakes, closed parenthesis, and radioactive “danger” insignias.  We’ve been fighting these things for three days now.  In frustration, Adam snapped at me, “I don’t know!  I don’t know how to work the Smeg!”  (Giggity!)  

Other things are strange, too.  The Christmas potatoes came with instructions to “decant potatoes into baking pan.”  I’ve never seen the word “decant” refer to anything other than wine.  (Post Side Note:  My New Year’s resolution is to take snobbery to unprecedented levels; I shall never eat an undecanted potato ever again. Neither should you.)]  

Two more trips to two different grocery stores and we finally had the makings of a decent Christmas dinner.  Everything will be closed on the 25th so we have to be ready.  I originally planned to roast a turkey, but I think the oven is too small to handle a bird that size.  We bought chicken instead.

Having to go to so many different shops to get basic supplies can be charming or irritating, depending on how much of a hurry you are in.  It takes us a long time to find things, both because we don’t know where to look for them, and because a lot of the more common products are in unrecognizable packaging.  We accidentally bought paper towels instead of toilet paper (the paper towel rolls are so small!)  Butter is butter, but instead of coming in a box with four 4 oz sticks, it comes disguised as a 250g bar of soap.  Eggs come in packages of 10 rather than 12, and brussels sprouts (which seem to be weirdly popular) come still attached to the giant stem they grow on.  One buys a baton of brussels sprouts.  We’ll get the hang of it eventually.

Aaaaaand, that was our whole day.  Future supply runs should be more efficient as we learn the ropes.

Marylebone Underground station, right next to our flat.

Marylebone Underground station, right next to our flat.  That’s Holden and me in the middle of the frame.

December 24, Christmas Eve

The day before Christmas, Adam wanted to go to Harrods and Selfridges to see the festivities.  Crowds are acceptable when they are part of “getting to know the local culture.”

Selfridges was crowded, as was to be expected on the day before Christmas, but all in all not too bad.  I’ve seen “Mr. Selfridge” (the show) and half expected to see ladies all dressed up in old-timey garb, but the clerks were just regular modern folks.  (Jeremy Piven wasn’t there either, which was a bummer.  I love that guy.)

Harrods is an entity unto itself.  Stepping through it’s doors is stepping into an alternate Christmas fantasy universe.  We headed up to the fourth floor where they have the children’s toy department adjacent to the Pet Spa. (“The Pet Spa provides a range of wonderful pet services, featuring behavioural counselling, full body massages and animal reiki, as well as nutritional advice, personal training sessions and, of course, impeccable grooming.”  Seriously, I’m not making this up.)

In Harrods extensive plush animal department, Josie found a robotic pig that she simply couldn’t live without and luckily it was 50% off.  She decided to spend some of her own hard-earned money.  Cash in hand, she approached the check-out counter.  “I love pigs!” she told the clerk.  “I’m so excited you guys have a nice pig here I can afford!”

The clerk amiably said, “Hello, Luv!  Do I detect an accent?  Whereabouts are you from?”

Josie looked uncertain and said, “What?”

“Whereabouts?” he repeated.

Josie glanced at me and whispered, “I don’t know what wear-abouts are.  Are they pants?”

After she paid for her pig and we’d turned to leave, the clerk immediately turned to the employee manning the next cash register.  With his index fingers made into guns, he said “Say ‘ello to my leeeetle frieeeend!  Bababababababababaaaaa!”  For this guy, an 8-year-old girl with an American accent immediately brought to mind a bloody murder scene from Scarface.

There also appears to be a fairly significant difference between Santa Claus (with whom we are all familiar), and Father Christmas.  Santa Claus is a roly-poly little old guy who sits on a chair and chuckles, “Ho ho ho!  And what would you like for Christmas, little boy?”  You sit on his lap, furnish him with a list of your demands, and happily depart with a candy cane.

Father Christmas is a 6ft5in hulk in an enormous red cape who strides through the store like a royal greeting his subjects.  He is trailed by two simpering little women dressed as elves.  Father Christmas towers over you in boots that could crush your skull and asks pointedly, “Were you good this year?”  You get the feeling that he’ll give you something of his choosing, if at all, and you’ll damn well like it.

Back at the apartment, we gave the kids their Christmas Eve gifts.  (We’d opened all our Christmas presents a week earlier, before we left home.  The “haul” was pretty light this year; our big expenditure is this trip.)  Holden was really excited about the Christmas Eve gifts and I kept telling him not to get his hopes up because they really weren’t that great.  When he finally got to rip open the paper and found new pajamas, he said, “Geez, you weren’t kidding about getting my hopes up.”

Typical London winter weather.

Typical London winter weather in Trafalgar Square.

Treats counter.

Treats counter at Caffe Concerto in Piccadilly Circus.

For $2000, this giraffe could be yours.

Harrods:  for $2000, this giraffe could be yours.

Harrods, selling fake snow for £18  (US$29)  I said, "That looks like the stuff inside disposable diapers" and the girl said, "It IS the stuff inside diapers."  She was encouraging Holden to try it out and he said, "I'm really sorry, but I don't have £18" and the girl replied, "That's OK.  Neither do I."

Harrods, selling fake snow for £18 (US$29) I said, “That looks like the stuff inside disposable diapers” and the girl said, “It IS the stuff inside diapers.” She was encouraging Holden to try it out and he said, “I’m really sorry, but I don’t have £18” and the girl replied, “That’s OK. Neither do I.”

Purdy & Sons gun store.  These things start at US$160,000; but they shoot skeet real good!

Purdy & Sons gun store. These things start at US$160,000; if you’re going to shoot your eye out, this is the way to do it in style.

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Christmas Day

Everything is closed, so we’ve been hanging out in the apartment. It’s nice to have a down-time day.

Regent’s Park is just a few blocks away, so our big outing was to bundle up in warm clothes and head over with a few slices of stale bread to feed the birds.  It turned out to be one of the most fun things we’ve ever done.  The birds are wild, but practically tame.

Geese, swans, coots, gulls, pigeons, herons and several types of duck all hang out together, and it’s fun to see their different styles of getting their share of free food.  The geese and coots march right up and beg (and steal if they see a chance).  The gulls are shy, but aerial masters and can snatch a crumb of bread out of the air before any other bird has even realized it’s not in your hand anymore.  The ducks stand a few feet away and look sad.  And the pigeons will perch on your body and happily eat out of your hands, and don’t think to leave once the food is gone.  They’ll be with you until you shake like a dog and shoo them off.

One of my biggest thrills was a squirrel.  He approached a couple in front of us and stood begging with his little paws clasped in front of him, like a furry Mr. Peanut holding an invisible cane.  The girl darted away from him squealing, “EW!” I still had bread left, so threw him a piece.  He stuffed it into his cheek and crept toward me.  I realized that with a little coaxing, he would eat right out of my hand.

I know this is not a good idea.  Last summer in one of the National Parks, I recall seeing a sign with a gnarly photo of someone’s mangled hand that read, “I thought the squirrel was cute so I fed him and yada yada yada, now I have 17 stitches.”  (I’m paraphrasing, and nobody remembers this sign but me, so I may have imagined it.)  The point is, I know squirrels are wild animals and can be unpredictable, they can be carriers of rabies, and they will bite if they feel threatened or trapped.  But I figure other people skydive, ski at breakneck speeds, and rock climb … all without having to endure lectures about how reckless and irresponsible they are being.  If I want to risk my life and health by feeding a park squirrel, then I’m going to go for it!  This is what me livin’ on the edge looks like.

Here are way too many photos of us with birds, and one photo of me taking my life in my hands with the squirrel.

The dangerous wild squirrel.

The dangerous wild squirrel.

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Christmas dinner turned out well in spite of my not being able to find a baking dish for the chicken.  I ended up using a spring-form cake pan with a pot lid perched on top.  It worked surprisingly well.  I decanted the potatoes into a pie plate and that worked well, too.

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Crackers!

Crackers!

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Thus ends our second Christmas Day in England.  (First was 2011.)  Cheers!

Posted in 2013 London Christmas | 1 Comment

New Orleans, 7-27-2013

DAY 65

It has long been a goal of Brenda’s to visit New Orleans – and today she finally got that chance.

Unfortunately, what Brenda had built up in her mind is a far cry from what the French Quarter really has to offer. I haven’t visited here since college, but it’s pretty much what I remembered. Of course, all of the “fun” stuff I remembered doesn’t translate well when you’re following a hustling wife and 3 kids down Bourbon Street on a Saturday evening. Brenda wanted a touch of Beale Street in Memphis (which I highly recommend) with French architecture and southern charm. What she got was – well, you all know what it’s like there. The place was far too crowded to see much or actually “do” anything there, so after giving the quarter a quick run-around, we retired for the night and made our plans to see more in the morning when it is a bit less chaotic.

Earlier in the day, I fulfilled one of my kid promises – we stopped by at a Cabela’s in Gonzalez, LA. This is basically the closest store of this chain to our home.  Isabella had been anxious to visit one of these stores and see all of the archery gear they offer – which is a lot. We probably spent near an hour there looking over all of the stuff, half of which we had to work to properly identify.

After Cabela’s, we visited Long Oak Plantation, near Vacherie, LA. This is one (of many) old Plantation houses built right along the Mississippi River in the 1780s-1830s. In this case, the owners had 1200 acres of sugar to raise. We got probably our best “tour guide” experience on the trip visiting this house – our guide really knew his stuff and managed to make it entertaining for adults and kids.

Dinner at the Blue Dog Diner in Lafayette. This is the original restaurant, serving Cajun food & etc. This restaurant is inspired by the artist George Rodrigue – a local man made good and now internationally known for his blue dog portraits.

Subsequent to the dinner, we visited Rodrigue’s formal gallery in the French Quarter. His art is interesting, but he’s a bit of a one-note Johnny with this gimmick. Still, it’s hard to argue with success. His original oils go in the tens and hundreds of thousands. His lithograph prints sell between $5-10k each.

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Reconstructed slave quarters on the Long Oak plantation.L1004347

Isabella texting her friends instead of taking it all in. L1004350
These oaks were planted somewhere around 1710-1720.. they live to be about 600 years old, so are now only “middle age”.
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Holden taking it all in during the plantation tour. L1004373

Cafe du Monde in NO – home of the beignets and chicory coffee. The line was way too long.. so we agreed to come back the next day when it would be (hopefully) less busy.
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Brenda did manage to pick up more street art – a pencil and watercolor drawing of a jazz musician. Here she is having the artist sign his work. L1004405

Bourbon street – at this point we’re working our way back to the hotel. It was hot and muggy, and peoples’ feet were getting sore. The parties were just getting started and Brenda had NO intention of having us join the revelry.

Holden got to add a few new “inappropriate” words to his repertoire.  The scene was a bit reminiscent of our experience in the red light district in Amsterdam. Brenda thought that, at the very least, the whores and stoners there were “classier” than the typical French Quarter denizens.
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I did not lift up my shirt and thus went home beadless.L1004419

DAY 66

This morning we walked down to Cafe du Monde for beignets and coffee. Although we got there at about 8:30am, the place was already packed. We got lucky to find an open table for 5 and “squatted” there for at least 10 minutes before someone was able to come by and bus the table clean from the previous guests. Our meal took far too long – the beignet making machine was down and so they were having to make and fry the treats by hand. By the time we finally got our food, we were hot, cramped and thoroughly tired of the process. We quickly scarfed down our treats and headed back to our hotel. (Having said that, the kids really loved the doughy sweets).

We then headed out of town to Slidell, LA. I had researched companies that offered swamp tours and we picked one that was well recommended. This turned out to be one of the highlights of our entire trip. We spent 2 hours in a boat traveling down a river, into various bayous and swamps to see the wildlife and the people that live there. We all got a chance to see a large number of alligators – up quite close.

After the boat trip, we ate lunch and headed back to the city. We finished the afternoon with a walking tour through the Garden District of New Orleans. Many of these houses were built from the 1830’s to the 1900’s – and now serve as a very ritzy housing community. Many of these houses sell for $1-3MM and look it.

One of my lunches here – I am in heaven.

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Scarfing down fried dough covered in powdered sugar. You cannot go wrong with this recipe.

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Trying to be artsy in the French Quarter.

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Mornings are a much better time to walk through the quarter to see things.L1004443

Goading an alligator with a piece of hot dog. L1004463

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These guys were right outside of our boat. The tour guide had to repeatedly warn us all to keep in the boat. The alligators are big and unpredictable. L1004519

This guy was arm length from where I was sitting.L1004521 L1004527

Cypress trees – showing the high water level mark when the spring rains come.L1004530

Wall of one of the famous cemeteries of NO.
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Typical house in the Garden District. L1004549

View of the above ground tombs in the Lafayette Cemetery. L1004551

Posted in 2013 USA Summer Trip | Leave a comment

Corvallis

We are now at my folks’ place – we’ll spend the 4th of July week here enjoying the HOT Oregon weather.

Grandma got sucked in to a marathon game of Monopoly.L1003378

Driveway hill races.L1003382

A walk in the woods.L1003388 L1003396

Yesterday we took the kids to the Osborne Aquatic Center in Corvallis.L1003415 L1003419

Josie at the beach in Newport – it was warm and sunny enough, but far too windy to be enjoyable.  We didn’t stay too long there, being chased back into our car to avoid the gales.

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Dad setting up flags in Philomath for the 4th of July.

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The kids on their DS’s in a blur of activity.

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4th of July family dinner.

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Isabella and I spent our morning yesterday at the urgent care clinic – she had injured her hand the previous evening riding around on one of the hand-powered scooters.
It still hurt bad enough the following day that we thought it best to take her in and have her X-rayed. As it turns out, she has fractured her Scaphoid bone (in the wrist). Her left hand/arm is now wrapped up in a temporary cast to allow time to heal. That has put an end to her archery (and scooter) playing this summer.
She had previously scraped up her thigh and several locations on her arm from previous scooter crashes, so that is probably a good thing. Unfortunately, she’s also caught the illness that from which I am just now recovering. She’s not hit as bad and is recovering much more rapidly… but it’s been a tough 3-4 days for Isabella.

Meanwhile, the fun continues on July 5 …

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Josie on the Gator – she got some great one-on-one time to drive all about the property.

Heidi, Jason & boys all returned to my folks for the afternoon/evening.  We all went down to the local creek to catch crawdads and play in the water.

Brenda caught a snake and began giving lessons to the more squeamish.

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Holden and Torin going off into the woods to answer the call of nature.

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The hunt for crawdads begins.  You can see Isabella’s cast in the distance.. she had to try and catch one-handed.

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Heidi guarding the holding tank.

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Grandma supervising.

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Each string has a hunk of raw chicken on the end. You drop the chicken into the water and wait – the crawdads downstream all smell the meat and head upstream quickly to grab on and start eating.
Once they are distracted, a quick swipe of the net lands them.

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One of the targets.

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Happy boys returning to home base with their catch.

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Right after Jason let his days’ catch go – we didn’t take them home to cook and eat them. Nobody wanted to be saddled with all of the work and mess.
I would guess that, between us all, we caught about 100 crawdads.

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July 6:  We start the day off with some trout fishing in a pond just down the road. My folks’ neighbor, Mr. Decker, kindly gave us access to his property to wander in the woods and fulfill one of our summer promises to Holden.

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Brenda showing off the one 12″ trout we took home. We actually planned to do nothing but catch-and-release, but I caught one fish who swallowed the hook down so deep we couldn’t get it out without killing the fish.
Brenda killed him, gutted him, cleaned him at home, cooked up and eventually ate him.

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Later in the day, Dad and I went to a car show in town. This is a 1927 La Salle, my favorite at the show.

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Although they did have one souped up 1954 Chevy 210 – does this give you any ideas, Jim?

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Back on the property for some more Gatorin’.

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Finally, the 5 of us ended up back at the creek for more Crawdad hunting. The kids couldn’t get enough of yesterday’s fun.

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Posted in 2013 USA Summer Trip | Leave a comment

Seattle (Day 34-35)

Adam’s post:  Yesterday, Rita took the day off of work (Randy couldn’t get out of meetings) to guide us around the town.

Isabella woke up feeling sick (sore throat, no energy) and we were worried that she might be getting that from which I am just now recovering. We decided to leave her to rest in the hotel room (with TV, cell phone, iPad, books, etc) while the rest of us walked down to Pike’s Place Market to do some touristy things.

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Rita texting her daughter, Angela, to coordinate lunch plans.

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Josie at the Market, finding a friend.

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We had to make another stop at the original Starbucks location.

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Holden learning the secrets of the Swami.

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Seattle still has all of the hills that you remember…

Bella’s health improved enough in the afternoon to join us for lunch and all subsequent events. She did NOT like being left out of the fun.

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For lunch, we drove up to Capitol Hill to a restaurant that Rita’s family knows and enjoys. There we met up with Angela (Rita’s daughter), her husband Rob and Angela’s two children (Hugh @ 17yrs and Ellie at 14 months).

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After lunch, Angela and Ellie agreed to accompany us to the Seattle Science Center – Angela even had free passes to sweeten the deal.

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The kids took a little convincing to get them excited about visiting a “Science Museum”, but once we got it, they scattered to the four corners of the building and had a blast.

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At the Science Center – this is a game that the kids couldn’t get enough of; Mindball. The machine measures brain waves and rewards those who can “relax” (more alpha brain waves) than their opponent.  Like the opposite of tug-o-war, the little ball in the center moves toward the opponent who isn’t relaxing enough.  As you can see, Josie has achieved the highest level of Buddhist meditation to beat her sister.

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Isabella holding Ellie, and Angela.

After the Science Center, we returned to the hotel to rest a bit.  A couple of days ago, I had made dinner reservations for all 7 of us (Randy is now back home after work) at the Space Needle.

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Dessert – the Chocolate Lunar Orbiter.

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Josie on the observation deck – not tall enough to actually get the telescope to point “down” toward the skyline.

Gorgeous weather in Seattle on a Friday – sunny and 85 degrees.
Today, Rita and Randy exchanged roles – Randy took the day off while Rita went back to work.

We started the day off right at Portage Bay Restaurant near Lake Union. Isabella couldn’t resist just ordering from the fruit bar – all you can eat by loading up the plate.

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Walking around Lake Union.  Randy took me to his favorite camera shop in the area so that we could lust after the newest models behind the glass.  We left our credit cards in the car so that neither of us could be tempted to radically diminish our net worth.

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We drove south to Boeing Field to tour the air museum, but it was so crowded with people there that we couldn’t even find a place to park. As such, we decided we would all have more fun just wandering around downtown Seattle – all within walking distance of Rita and Randy’s condo. We made a special visit to the Filson flagship store – where I purchased a hat to be used this winter.

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Quick break downtown for cold chocolate milks.

The rest of the afternoon was spent in the pool – at R&R’s condo.  Randy, Brenda and I celebrated Wine Time by the pool.

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For dinner, the entire gang showed up.  Rita and Rob (Angela’s husband) came in from work.  Angela came with kids Hugh and Ellie.  It was dinner for 11 at one of R&R’s favorite spots.

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Posted in 2013 USA Summer Trip | 1 Comment

Seattle (Day 32-33)

My good friend Charlie, whom I met at Rocky Mountain College in 1993, lives in Seattle and we had a day to spend with him.  He grew up on Bainbridge Island and knows the entire Seattle area really well.  He planned a whole day of fun activities for the kids.

First, we all drove to the docks and took the ferry from downtown Seattle to Bainbridge Island.  We walked to a bakery Charlie has been going to his whole life and had cookies and tea.

Heading out on the ferry to Bainbridge Island.

Heading out on the ferry to Bainbridge Island.

Josie made an instant friend in Charlie.

Josie made an instant friend in Charlie.

The bakery had a huge plate glass window looking out over a courtyard.  We were lucky enough to snag a booth right next to the window.  Down in the courtyard, we saw a couple guys with dogs, sitting on a nice little picnic bench with cinnamon rolls.  A lady they knew dropped by and while they were turned towards her visiting, one of the dogs hopped up and licked all the frosting off the first guy’s cinnamon roll.  We watched in horror — what were we supposed to do?  We could bang on the glass and make a big scene; one of us could run outside and hope to make it to the courtyard in time; do nothing?  While we were trying to decide what to do, the guy picked up his roll and pulled a piece off.  We had a moment of relief when it looked like he was going to feed it to his dog (“Oh, it was a dog treat all along! Phew!”) but then he popped it into his own mouth.  After that, we figured he was better off not knowing.

Too many choices at the local bakery.

Too many choices at the local bakery.

Downtown Bainbridge has a lot of artist-type shops and galleries.  We had a good time wandering around.

Downtown Bainbridge Island

Downtown Bainbridge Island

After the ferry ride back to downtown Seattle, we ate lunch at thai place Charlie used to frequent when he worked downtown.  Then we drove over to Queen Anne to see Adam’s old house.  The entire neighborhood has remained unchanged since at least 1993.

Catching a nap on the ferry ride back to Seattle.

Catching a nap on the ferry ride back to Seattle.

Seattle skyline

Seattle skyline

The afternoon’s activities were to visit a novelty shop in Wallingford (fun gag gifts for the kids) and get some special ice cream at a famous little shop called Molly Moo’s over by the Ballard Locks.

The "boys" showing off their newly purchased toys from Archie McPhee's (novelty shop) in Wallingford.

The “boys” showing off their newly purchased toys from Archie McPhee’s (novelty shop) in Wallingford.

Ice cream at Molly Moo's.

Ice cream at Molly Moo’s.

Right now the salmon are running, so we went to the locks and got to watch them struggling upriver to spawn.  They spend most of their lives in the sea, so the transition from salt water to fresh water is really hard on them.  In Ballard, they have “resting” areas built into the run so the fish have a chance to acclimate to the change.

At the Ballard Locks.

At the Ballard Locks.

Watching the salmon make their run from salt water to fresh water at the locks.

Watching the salmon make their run from salt water to fresh water at the locks.

The salmon ladder

The salmon ladder.

Isabella burning off some energy down the hill.

Isabella burning off some energy down the hill.

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Back to Charlie’s for dinner — he grilled steaks and we had salad made from produce from his share in the community garden.  Isabella got out her bow to show off and Charlie set up a target in his backyard.  Kids played games on Xbox, then fireowrks in the street.

Back at Charlie's house for dinner - the kids got some Xbox time - it has been more than a month for them and they were suffering withdrawals.

Back at Charlie’s house for dinner – the kids got some Xbox time – it has been more than a month for them and they were suffering withdrawals.

Josie showing some of her favorite YouTube videos to Charlie.

Josie showing some of her favorite YouTube videos to Charlie.

Smoke bombs out in front of Charlie's house.

Smoke bombs out in front of Charlie’s house.

Charlie giving us a brief preview of a huge Fireworks show he has planned for his family this 4th.

Charlie giving us a brief preview of a huge Fireworks show he has planned for his family this 4th.

Posted in 2013 USA Summer Trip | 2 Comments

The last of Grangeville (Day 29-31)

When I was a little girl, my dad had a gunsmithing license.  He created his own guns, restored antiques, and repaired broken ones for other people.  We had dozens (if not hundreds) of guns in our home at any given time, and he knew he needed to teach my brother and I how to use them for our own safety.  Brian and I both became super-fantastically awesome sharpshooters.  This skill came in really handy for my brother, who grew up to be a prison guard with legendary marksmanship even amongst his highly trained colleagues.  In my case, my skills are largely useless since I have no intention of killing anything.   I have bragged about it, though, to my kids over the years during my lame attempts to be “cool.”  They have never really believed me.

Today I had the opportunity to prove myself.  The kids have been shooting guns with Dad for several days but I wasn’t interested in giving it a go myself — which further had the kids (especially Isabella) convinced I was full of baloney and didn’t want to shoot because I wasn’t able to shoot.  This afternoon I went with everybody.  And I hit that target — dead center — on my first shot.  I turned around to look at Isabella and I will cherish her expression for the rest of my life … she was amazed, chagrined, and grudgingly impressed.    “Well,” she finally grumbled, “You probably just got lucky.”

Turns out she was right.  I missed the next couple of shots, and then Dad took the gun and missed all his shots, too.  (He NEVER misses.)  “The sights are off on this one.  I need to work on it some more,” he declared and pulled out another gun.  He handed it to me and said, “Try this one.”

Bullseye!!  So I redeemed myself with the accurate gun.  The kids had to admit that I’m good at something cool.  And that made becoming a super-fantastically awesome sharpshooter when I was a girl worth it.  I had to wait 30 years for it to come in handy, but it finally did.  Yessssss!

Proof I shot the gun.  You can't see the target.  As my dad says, "Shooting is a participation sport, not a spectator sport."

Proof I shot the gun. You can’t see the target. But as my dad says, “Shooting is a participation sport, not a spectator sport.”

Tea Party ad.  Don't worry, folks.  We're still Democrats!  (Democrats with good aim.)

Tea Party ad. Don’t worry, folks. We’re still Democrats! (Democrats with good aim.)

Josie demonstrating to Holden that, yes, indeed she DID hit the old medicine bottle.

Josie demonstrating to Holden that, yes, indeed she DID hit the old medicine bottle.

"Ok, fine.  You're good, too."

“Ok, fine. You’re good, too.”

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Concentration!

Concentration!

"I'm totally gonna get that tin can."

“I’m totally gonna get that tin can.”

Meanwhile, Josie is still living in the pig pen.  We’ve been feeding them scraps from our meals and they’ve become incredibly tame, not to mention gluttonous.  All those “eats like a pig” type insults and comments make a lot of sense in a real way now, and not just as turns of phrase.

Pigs will go to great lengths to get at food.

Pigs will go to great lengths to get at food. In this case, prophylactic yogurt to cure a bad case of diarrhea in Spotsey and prevent it in Waddles.

Josie with her babies.  She spends hours each day doing this.

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Adam has been getting in on the gun fun.  Some lousy pictures from my iPad, since I don’t know how to work the Leica.

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“Redneck skeet shooting,” in which Dad throws tin cans in the air and Adam blasts them out of the sky.

Sunday:

Josie’s day begins with pig breakfast.  She is in love with those little girls.

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Saturday afternoon Isabella created a treasure hunt for my parents.  The big “prize” at the end was one of my shoes (not even a whole pair!) and an empty bottle of sunscreen.  My parents decided to create a treasure hunt for the kids on Sunday morning with a little better prize at the end:  cash.

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Giving out the first clue and establishing the rules.

Off to find the clue hidden inside "the yellow beast."

Off to find the clue hidden inside “the yellow beast.”

Isabella continues to spend hours each day practicing archery.  She is so interested that Adam spent some time researching archery clubs/lessons and found a place near our house in Georgia.  We’ll sign her up when we get back.

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The collection of holes in the yellow zone is growing!

Holden is also learning some of the finer points of large machinery operation.  He thinks this is super cool.

Holden learning to work the back hoe.

Holden learning to work the back hoe.

Monday:

Now we have to face the fact we’re leaving tomorrow morning.  Today is pretty much filled up with chores; laundry, trying to find all our stuff that was once neatly packed and is now scattered over my parent’s property, and trying to remember how we tetris-fitted all our luggage into our car.

Josie is having a hard time coming to grips with leaving her pigs, which has led to some philosophical talks about the concept of “it’s better to have loved and lost than never to have loved at all.”  She’s OK with it today, but I dread the torrent of grief tomorrow.  It will be worth it, though.  She’ll cherish the memories of her “Summer of the Pigs” long after the pigs are gone.

Tomorrow:  Seattle!!

Posted in 2013 USA Summer Trip | 2 Comments

More Grangeville (Day 25-28)

All moms probably know this phenomenon; your husband comes home from work and the kids go nuts over “fun Daddy” while you stand in the kitchen nagging, “Did you do your homework?  Did you eat your peas?  Have you had a bath?”  Unfortunately, grandparenhood follows pretty much the same pattern.  Grandpa buys pigs, makes bows and slingshots, and gives gun lessons while Grandma cooks meals, cleans the house, and makes sure life keeps moving along like it’s supposed to.

Today, however, was a big win for “fun Grandma” … my mom bought tickets to a traveling circus.  We got to attend the Culpepper and Merriweather Circus, probably one of the last old-fashioned types of traveling carnie show left in the United States.  They are on the road 32 weeks out of the year and feature all the traditional acts:  trapeze, gymnast, balancing act, juggling, lions & tigers, beautiful lady with horses, aerialists, clowns, etc.   It was a real treat.

Today I spent most of the day reading Stephen King’s new book, Joyland.  This was particularly apt in light of today’s activities; the book is largely about carnie-folk in an old amusement park.  I was all too aware that, as audience members, we were most definitely “rubes.”

We were all sitting on portable bleachers waiting for the show to start, and one of the clowns came by and singled me out.  He pointed at me and mimed a bored face, then looked at his imaginary watch as though he were waiting impatiently for the fun to finally start; he’d interpreted my facial expression as boredom rather than solemn introspection.  I was actually sitting there thinking about the life of a circus traveler and how they very much lived outside of society, forming unbreakable bonds only with other outsiders, yet he’d identified me as just another bored mom waiting sourly to be entertained for my $10.  I thought to myself, He thinks that in my eyes, he’s nothing more than a dancing monkey… and he hates me for it.  It was embarrassing and I ended up feeling sorry for both of us before the show even started.

The traveling circus is a dying art.  One can tune into America’s Got Talent and see more polished performers from the comfort of one’s own home.  And yet; there is something special about seeing these acts in person, under a stained and ratty tent that has been erected and dismantled thousands of times over the years.  You know the performers have performed the same acts hundreds of times in hundreds of towns, yet for every little kid in the audience this is something magical and new and palpably exciting.  High on cotton candy, they marvel at every feat.  A live performance just has something special that can’t be captured in any other way.

Outside the Big Top

Outside the Big Top. Our group is at the back (from left: Holden, Isabella, Josie, Sharon, Brenda)

Holden with his prize

Holden with his prize. He won a stick with streamers on it by finding a “ticket” in his bag of roasted peanuts.

Grandma enjoying her grandchildren

Grandma enjoying her grandchildren

The Balancing Guy

The Balancing Guy

Earlier today:  Isabella is getting really good with her bow.  She still hasn’t hit the exact center of the bullseye, but she’s usually within a few inches.  It’s amazing how much progress she’s made.  She’s also shown a real aptitude for shooting guns.  As long as she’s wearing her contacts so she can see, she does a really good job.  Grandpa pronounced her “a natural.” (I think she’s secretly hoping for the whole world to go to hell in a hand basket so that her “natural” skills will be useful.  And yes, she’s wearing a wrist brace in this photo … because she’s serious.)

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Josie’s big passion is pigs; Holden’s is turtles.  He was sad to learn that Idaho County just isn’t turtle country (too cold) so Grandpa agreed to carve one out of walnut for him.  Here is Holden learning the basics of wood working; he’s too young to use the power machines (like the bandsaw pictured here) but he was fascinated just to watch.  The turtle is coming along nicely and hopefully will be ready for it’s big debut sometime soon.

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Wednesday, Thursday and Friday have been a blur of relaxation and family time.  The weather turned unpleasant, so we’ve been holed up reading (one of the books I blew through was Howie Mandel’s Here’s the Deal: Don’t Touch Me which I thoroughly enjoyed) and visiting with people who pop by.

Watching cartoons after visiting the grocery store to stock up on bubble gum.

Watching cartoons after visiting the grocery store to stock up on bubble gum.

Charlotte, Tom, Judy and Arge came by yesterday for a visit, wine time & dinner.

Charlotte, Tom, Judy and Arge came by yesterday for a visit, wine time & dinner.

Tom and Charlotte's dog, Axel, and Brenda

Tom and Charlotte’s dog, Axel, and Brenda

Josie playing outside.  She likes to stand on things.

Josie playing outside. She likes to stand on things.

More bow practice for Isabella.

More bow practice and instruction for Isabella. She’s relentless. At this rate, she’ll give Oliver Queen a run for his money by the time we leave next Tuesday.

Charlotte and Axel, with Josie standing on a big rock in the background (left)

Charlotte and Axel, with Josie standing on a big rock in the background (left)

Tom, doing what he likes best:  smoking a stogie and contemplating life's Big Questions.

Tom, doing what he likes best: smoking a stogie and contemplating life’s Big Questions.

Sharon (my mom) playing fetch with Max.

Sharon (my mom) playing fetch with Max.

And finally, the turtle carving is finished!  Dad got up early every day and spent mornings in his shop showing Holden how to carve.  This turtle is made of walnut and Dad signed the bottom.  Holden loves it and says he now has a family heirloom, too.

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Grangeville (Day 22-24)

Saturday & Sunday (June 15, 16)

Several weeks ago, I emailed my parents that Josie was really interested in pigs and asked my dad if he could arrange a little field trip to a pig farm.

Dad took that idea and ran with it; not only did he arrange a visit to a local pig farm, he bought two baby pigs to bring home.  My parents modified their dog’s kennel (outdoor structure measuring 10×10) to be a pig pen.  They wanted the pigs to be a surprise for Josie, so all she knew was that they had “something special” planned and the appointment was at 11:00 a.m.

The kids speculated about this special surprise for days.  Josie was pretty sure it had something to do with pigs, and this morning when it was finally time to drive out to the pig farm she was really quiet in the car.  The landscape sure looked exactly right for pigs, but she was scared to get her hopes up.

We got out of the car and met the farmer.  My dad introduced everyone, and then he took Josie by the shoulders and said, “Here’s the part you don’t know yet.  We’re taking two pigs home.”

Josie was so overcome she could barely speak.  I thought for a minute that she was going to cry, just because it was so much more than she dared dream of, but she held it together.

The guy took us back into the piglet pens and let Josie pick out the two she wanted.  We encouraged her to get the smallest ones he had, just so they would be more manageable, but we didn’t have to convince very hard because she thought the smaller ones were cuter anyway.  (They’re roughly 30 pounds each, and 8 weeks old.)

Once we got the pigs home, the first order of business was baths; they stunk to high heaven and were covered in poop.  The pigs handled it a lot better than we expected.  We discovered they are both girls, so Josie named one Waddles (because she waddles) and the other Spotsey (because she has spots.)  Josie stood in the pen with her hands clasped and said, “I’m going to cherish this day for the rest of my life.”

The other two kids are jealous, but actually doing a pretty good job of not ruining the experience.

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Bringing piglets home

Bath time!

Bath time!

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All tired out, but clean.  "Pigs in a blanket."

All tired out, but clean. “Pigs in a blanket.”

Isabella has been interested in archery ever since she read The Hunger Games, so all winter my dad has been making her a bow using the old fashioned techniques.  I’m not up on the details, but it involves getting a long stick of black locust and then shaving off one growth layer at a time with a blade that looks a little like a potato peeler.  It’s incredibly time consuming, but makes a great bow.  The ends (the part that holds the string) are made of hand-carved deer antler.  It’s a gorgeous piece and will be a cherished family heirloom for at least a couple generations.

Isabella has been outside practicing until her fingers bleed; then she wraps them in band-aids and keeps going.  She’s actually getting pretty good with it.

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Holden is the only one who hasn’t had his “special thing” yet, but he’s a harder guy to do stuff for.  His big passion in life is video games and he already has all the ones we’re willing to let him have.  We’ll have to come up with something else — perhaps a fishing excursion.  He loves fishing and there are some great places around here to do it.  There are also lots of guns to shoot.  I’m sure he’ll find something to be excited about in the next couple of days.

In the meantime, Josie is pretty much living in the pig pen.  We probably won’t see much of her this week!

Monday (June 17)

The kids all wanted Grandpa to teach them how to shoot a gun.

Safety lesson

Safety lesson

The fun part!

The fun part!

Not so fun:  waiting for her turn.

Not so fun: waiting for her turn.

Tomorrow afternoon a circus is coming to town.  There’s no end to the fun!

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Boise (Days 20 and 21)

Adam’s post:  On Wednesday we drove into Boise, Idaho.  Brenda wanted to spend a couple of days visiting with her childhood friend, Claire, and her family.

After eating lunch the group split up – I went back to check us in at the hotel while Brenda and the kids visited the Worlds Center for Birds of Prey with Clair and her son, Malcolm (Holden’s age).

Afterwards, they all returned to Claire’s house for an evening cookout.  Claire’s extended family (parents, siblings/spouses, nieces/nephews) all came by to visit with Brenda and our kids and everyone had a great time.

The next morning, we visited the old Boise Territorial and State Penitentiary.  This place was open from 1872 to 1973 and reaffirmed everyone’s beliefs that it is much better to be outside the walls than in.

Josie closing up one of the doors on Holden and Isabella in the "Solitary Confinement" wing.

Josie closing up one of the doors on Holden and Isabella in the “Solitary Confinement” wing.

"Enjoy the dark, Maggot!"

“Enjoy the dark, Maggot!”

Scaling the wall.

Scaling the wall.

One of the more "modern" areas of the grounds.  The prison continued to expand through the years, but you can now see how inmates lived by time period - from the 1870's on up through to the 1970's.

One of the more “modern” areas of the grounds. The prison continued to expand through the years, but you can now see how inmates lived by time period – from the 1870’s on up through to the 1970’s.

This was a very popular area.  They also show off the room where hanging executions took place - complete with trap door, large lever and pit below.

This was a very popular area. They also show off the room where hanging executions took place – complete with trap door, large lever and pit below.

Many of the cells were left "as is" after shut down in 1973.  Inmates here lived 4 to a cell, with running water and toilet.

Many of the cells were left “as is” after shut down in 1973. Inmates here lived 4 to a cell, with running water and toilet.

One of the older wings.  No plumbing, just a bucket they could shove into a "ventilation shaft" which was just a hole in the corner of the cell with a chimney pipe leading up to the ceiling.

One of the older wings. No plumbing, just a bucket they could shove into a “ventilation shaft” which was just a hole in the corner of the cell with a chimney pipe leading up to the ceiling.

The cell doors in the older wing.  Prisoners spent most of their time in the dark.

The cell doors in the older wing. Prisoners spent most of their time in the dark.

Out in the Yard.

Out in the Yard.

One bright spot in an otherwise wretched place; from 1910 on, they cultivated roses in the outdoor areas.

One bright spot in an otherwise wretched place; from 1910 on, they cultivated roses in the outdoor areas.

We spent the rest of the day trying out various great restaurants in Boise’s downtown area, doing some shopping for clothing (coat for Josie, pants for Isabella) and getting prepared for our drive north to Grangeville.

That’s where we are now – at Jim and Sharon’s house – and will be here having fun for the next 10 +/- days.  Their internet is spotty, so we won’t be doing daily updates this week.

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Sun Valley, Idaho (Day 19)

The air quality has improved so dramatically in Holden’s vicinity that he isn’t fighting his new dietary restrictions anymore. He’s more or less resigned himself to his new fate. This morning he woke up and said, “I know this doesn’t really work to my advantage to say, but it is pretty nice not to fart all the time.” Even he can’t argue with the results.

The transition was less painful at breakfast today, too, because the restaurant offered to make him some French toast out of gluten-free bread. It was close enough to pancakes to make him feel like he wasn’t being deprived of anything. I am breathing a sigh of relief because I didn’t want this to become a daily fight at every meal time.

We passed a dairy farm outside Idaho Falls that had a big sign “See Pigs Here!” We turned around and went back to check it out.

They had a neat little area off to the side of the dairy barn with two piglets, a couple of calves, some goats, sheep, and chickens. Josie was, as they say, in hog heaven. The piglets were young enough their food bowl was filled with milk and they were very friendly. They both raced over to the front of the pen for pets and scratches. One of them sneezed ick all over Josie’s pants, which totally made her day.

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On the road between Idaho Falls and Arco (read: the middle of nowhere) is the EBR-1 (Experimental Breeder Reactor 1) — the world’s first nuclear power plant. It was way more cool than you might imagine.

Isabella’s and my first stop was the ladies room, which contained a big cabinet over the toilet filled with dozens of free tampons and maxi pads. I was thinking, “what exactly does this place do to women?”

It was called a “breeder” reactor because uranium-235 (which is highly fissionable) strikes uranium-238 (non-fissionable) which then absorbs extra neutrons and turns into plutonium-239. Plutonium-239 is a good reactor fuel. “Thus, EBR-1 was a breeder because it ‘bred’ more plutonium-239 atoms than the uranium atoms it consumed.” The plant was incredibly safe, but never became a popular energy choice because of perceived danger and potential long-term environmental damage. Badly designed plants (Chernobyl and Three Mile Island) freaked people out.

The kids’ big take-away from this tour was, “Oh, so this is like where Homer works.” (Their eyes glazed over when I started reading about uranium-235 and plutonium-239. “Nooooo, not educational! It’s summer vacation!”)

Cutting across the vast nothingness of eastern Idaho, we came across the Experimental Breeder Reactor - 1 - the world's first Nuclear power plant.  Electricity was first generated in 1951 at the (at the time) highly secret and remote location.  Shortly afterwards, the nearby town of Arco was the first city to receive its power via the steam driven turbines in this building. The building is now de-commissioned, de-radiated and opened up as a very neat (and still very remote) museum.  Everything is pretty much left as it was when it was shut down in 1964.

Experimental Breeder Reactor – 1 – the world’s first Nuclear power plant. Electricity was first generated in 1951 at the (at the time) highly secret and remote location. Shortly afterwards, the nearby town of Arco was the first city to receive its power via the steam driven turbines in this building.
The building is now de-commissioned, de-radiated and opened up as a very neat (and still very remote) museum. Everything is pretty much left as it was when it was shut down in 1964.

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Holden doing his best Homer Simpson Sector 7-G Technical Supervisor/ Supervising Technician imitation.

Holden doing his best Homer Simpson Sector 7-G Technical Supervisor/ Supervising Technician imitation.

From there on to the Craters of the Moon National Preserve.  There are about 1100 sq. miles of lava fields to play on, in and around – all are recent arrivals (geologically) bubbling up from 2000-15000 years ago.

Josie and her little bottom struggling to climb back up one of the hills.  Everybody was covered in black dust and the car really needs a good vacuuming now.

Josie and her little bottom struggling to climb back up one of the hills. Everybody was covered in black dust and the car really needs a good vacuuming now.

It was very windy and very steep on some of the lava rock hills.  The girls were leaning forward and "flying" down the steep descents.

It was very windy and very steep on some of the lava rock hills. The girls were leaning forward and “flying” down the steep descents.

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Sun Valley Lodge is where Ernest Hemingway stayed in 1939, in room 206, to finish writing For Whom the Bell Tolls.

Sun Valley Lodge

Sun Valley Lodge

Hemingway is not my cup of tea. I was forced to slog through several of his works in high school and college, and it just never clicked. His favorite topics include war, bull fighting, and screwing women; topics that I find range from boring or downright distasteful. (Adam:  Throw in drinking and smoking and I call that a life well lived.)  Suffice it to say, I am not Ernest Hemingway’s intended audience. He is, however, one of Adam’s favorite authors of all time. Sun Valley Lodge is for Adam is what The Stanley was for me.

The Lodge is one of the nicest hotels we’ve ever stayed in, and we were on the “losers” 3rd floor. The swanky people get rooms on the 2nd floor which looks like it could quite easily accommodate Queen Elizabeth.

They have a year-round outdoor ice rink for all your summer ice skating needs, and a heated outdoor pool for all your winter outdoor swimming needs. Someone comes by your room at bedtime with little boxes of imported chocolates, all wrapped up in gold ribbons.

Room 206, where Hemingway stayed, is a suite at the end of the hall on the 2nd floor. I don’t know how one gets that room (or if it is available at all.) Staying in that room would be really cool if it could be managed. Hemingway’s publicist invested in Sun Valley and is the person who got Hemingway to go there, hoping that his celebrity status would lure other folks out. (It worked.) We’re guessing Hemingway got everything free.

Hemingway loved Sun Valley so much that he and his fourth wife bought a house there. Hemingway only lived in it about three years before he killed himself. He’d been suffering depression and sought help by the best doctors at the time — and the newest, best treatment happened to be electro-shock therapy. In short, his brain was thoroughly addled and his friends pointed out to him that he was going crazy. Knowing that he was losing his mind, he decided to go out on his own terms while he still had the wits necessary to do it.

He is buried in the Ketchum Cemetery. We visited his grave. It’s a beautiful burial site, right under some big trees and alongside his wife, Mary. People leave coins and bottles of absinth on his gravestone.

Adam:  I wanted to visit Ernest Hemingway's grave at the Ketchum cemetery.  As a tribute, I left one of the Chinese 1 Yuan coins that ended up in my change basket from some transaction in Yellowstone.  (By the way, we were often the only Occidentals within 100 mile radius there..)  The coin is about quarter sized and I had spent several days trying to sneak it back into circulation (car wash, candy machine) without success.  Now, it rests with Ernest.  Holden is adding to the penny stack.

Adam: I wanted to visit Ernest Hemingway’s grave at the Ketchum cemetery. As a tribute, I left one of the Chinese 1 Yuan coins that ended up in my change basket from some transaction in Yellowstone. (By the way, we were often the only Occidentals within 100 mile radius there..) The coin is about quarter sized and I had spent several days trying to sneak it back into circulation (car wash, candy machine) without success. Now, it rests with Ernest. Holden is adding to the penny stack.

Overall, we were so impressed with Sun Valley that we’re fantasizing about saving up and making a week-long vacation out in sometime in the future. From what we understand, going in the summer is more affordable than winter because it’s primarily a ski resort. It’s definitely a “save up for it” destination, though.

Downtown Ketchum, the adjoining town to Sun Valley

Downtown Ketchum, the adjoining town to Sun Valley

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Yellowstone Park (Day 18)

Holden’s digestive issues have continued unabated. He trails behind him a cloud of gas that clears rooms. Strangers catch the eyes of others in their group and regard each other suspiciously: Oh my God. Was that you? As my grandma used to say, “It’s time to lift this pony’s tail and look the problem straight in the eye.”

This morning at breakfast I instituted a new gluten-free trial period for Holden. He had to eat scrambled eggs while jealously watching his sisters eat pancakes. He was NOT happy. “If I can’t eat anything I like, then I might as well just not live!” he said through tears. I pointed out that he eats nearly gluten free at home (I don’t tolerate it well, so most of my cooking doesn’t include wheat as an ingredient) and he has no complaints, but that is hollow reassurance to a man watching his sisters wolf down waffles and cakes.

We stopped at a grocery store on the way to the park and loaded up on gluten-free picnic food, which means we filled our cooler with fruit, sliced deli meats and cheese.

Yellowstone Canyon

Yellowstone Canyon

On the way into the park we saw more huge herds of bison. So far all we’ve seen are bison.

Yesterday we pulled over every time we saw one and got out of the car to take photos and admire their magnificent size. “What impressive animals!” we said. In one spot, bison kept crossing the road and had traffic at a standstill, both because people wanted photos and because bison are huge and don’t move any faster out of a desire to be polite. After the last bison finally ambled off into the field, one frustrated guy pulled his car out into the middle and illegally (and dangerously, I might add) sped through the tunnel of stopped cars lining both sides of the road. He had a death-grip on his steering wheel and the expression on his face said If I have to stop this car for one more goddam bison, I’m gonna lose it!  Everyone in our car said, “What a jerk. He can’t wait two minutes? He comes all the way to Yellowstone and gets mad when he sees wildlife?”

Back to today; with bison around every curve in the road, we started, by degrees, to turn into that guy. “Oh, look. More bison.” By mid-afternoon it was bordering on irritation. “More bison? Are they scaring away all the other animals?” If our experience at Yellowstone is to be believed, the whole of the park contains ostentatious numbers of bison, one jack rabbit, one marmot, and a few geese.

No zoom needed.  Just open the window and shoot.

No zoom needed. Just open the window and shoot.

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Picnic on the Yellowstone River

Picnic on the Yellowstone River

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We stopped at most of the geysers and mud pots, which reek of sulphur. The kids were both disgusted and amused. Running along the walkways pinching one’s nose and exclaiming about the horrible stench is pretty fun, although prolonged exposure can get a good headache going.

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On one of these walks, I noticed Holden gulping for breath and panicked. The elevation is fairly high (between 6,000 and 8,000 feet depending on where you are in the park) and there are a lot of gasses being released into the atmosphere. I feared he was experiencing life-threatening hydrogen sulfide poisoning.

I raced over and said ,”Bug, what’s wrong!?” He sheepishly said, “Isabella told me that if I swallow air, I’ll be able to toot, and this stinky air would make perfect toots.”

Ah ha! After a gluten-free breakfast and lunch … no toots. Not a single one. He saw the writing on the wall and realized that if he didn’t work up some gas, he was going to be bereft of pancakes for the rest of the trip, if not for the rest of his life.

The big after lunch snowball fight on the Continental Divide

The big after lunch snowball fight on the Continental Divide

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Our timing to see Old Faithful was spot on. We pulled into the parking lot, walked over to the viewing area, and only had to wait about 3 minutes for the eruption. The kids were all a little disappointed. Old Faithful is, indeed, very predictable but not particularly impressive. Josie was still holding a grudge from yesterday, too. “Uncle Brian would have made this a lot more fun,” she grumbled.

Old Faithful, or as Holden keeps mistaking, "Old Reliable."

Old Faithful, or as Holden keeps mistaking, “Old Reliable.”

Tomorrow we head to Sun Valley and Ketchum, the place where Hemingway ended his life. We have rooms in the Sun Valley Lodge, where in 1939 Hemingway stayed in room 206 and completed For Whom the Bell Tolls.  Adam is really looking forward to this.

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Yellowstone Park with Brian and Phuong (Day 17)

We left Choteau this morning in a caravan with Brian & Phuong. They had enough time in their schedule to spend one night in Yellowstone with us before they had to head home.

Burning off some energy in a rest area.  Brian needs it as badly as the kids do.

Burning off some energy in a rest area. Brian needs it as badly as the kids do.

We arrived mid-afternoon and decided to at least try to see Old Faithful before Brian & Phuong had to leave. Old Faithful is 30 miles into the park.

On the way, you pass many other geysers. We stopped and spent quite a bit of time studying the Paint Pot mud hole, which is near a couple other geysers called The Fountain and The Mourning Geyser. A park ranger was speaking about them and said both are far more impressive than Old Faithful, but they only go off every 8 to 12 hours and aren’t terribly predictable. He thought The Fountain might spout within the hour, so we stood around mired in indecision for 10 or 15 minutes, and finally decided it was getting late and we should just head up the road to Old Faithful instead.

The mud pots.  They stink.

The mud pots. They stink.

The drive took a long time because bison like to stand in the middle of the road blocking traffic. This makes for awesome photo opportunities, but you better hope you don’t need to be anywhere on time.

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Phuong trying to get some bison's attention far off in the distance

Phuong trying to get some bison’s attention far off in the distance

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We arrived at Old Faithful and discovered we’d missed it — by 10 minutes. The next eruption was predicted in about 90 minutes. Brian said to Adam, “Sorry guys. That’s just my rotten luck. I could fall into a barrel of boobs and come out sucking my thumb.”

Brian & Phuong decided to stay and wait for the next eruption because it was their only chance to see it. Adam and I headed back to the hotel with the kids because Adam was sick and needed to rest for awhile. Josie was profoundly disappointed and cried the whole 30 mile trip out of the park, “But I wanted to see it with Uncle Brian! He makes everything fun! Seeing it tomorrow with you will make it so lame!” Then she worked herself up to furious and turned on me. “Mama, why can’t you be fun like Uncle Brian? Why are you so awful and boring? I wish Uncle Brian was my mom!”

When Brian and Phuong got back from the park, the first thing Brian said was, “Oh, you guys left too soon! It was awesome! And we got charged by a buffalo in our car! You missed the best part of the whole day!”

Josie’s jaw dropped and she whipped around to glare at me, indignance rendering her speechless. Once she gathered her wits, she screamed, “I knew it! I just KNEW IT!” Luckily Brian had video on his phone of all those adventures.

We all ate dinner together at the restaurant in our hotel lobby. There we sat, discussing the excitement of the day, when Holden said, “Mama, my tooth really hurts.” That thing was so loose it was barely hanging on by a little flap of skin. I took Holden into the bathroom to inspect it, and it fell out when I touched it. He didn’t notice until the hole started spouting blood. I gave him a wad of paper towels to bite down on, but he had bloody slobber running down his chin and getting all over his clothes.

Once the bleeding had slowed considerably, we went back to the table. Brian took one look at Holden’s bloody shirt and the wad of paper towels he still had in his mouth and started to look pretty green around the gills. “I hate blood,” he said. I ended up taking Holden back to the room for a change of clothes just so he wouldn’t gross people out too badly.

Tomorrow Brian & Phuong head home to California, and the rest of us have the whole day in Yellowstone National Park. Maybe we’ll get lucky and see some bears!

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Grandpa’s Funeral (Day 16)

Today was bittersweet.  We laid to rest my grandfather, Rodney Hanson.

I didn’t know my grandfather very well because we lived so far from each other.  I’ve always known he was a really special man, but in the vague way that children are only peripherally aware of grownups.

At Grandpa’s funeral service today, I thought about how physicists can’t directly observe certain types of particles, but they can learn a lot by observing the effect they have on the matter around them. Grandpa is sort of like this for me; I didn’t know him well, but one look at the stellar human beings who shared his life tells me a lot about what kind of man he was.

By all accounts, my grandfather wasn’t much of a talker, but his actions and the impact he had on those around him paint a picture of a man who made the world a better place for everyone who had the privilege of sharing even a small amount of time with him.   For those fortunate enough to share their lives with him, his actions not only made the world better, they made people better.  Today I kept hearing the same thing over and over:  “I’m a better person for having known him.”  This was said by nearly everyone who attended, in one way or another.  For one man to mean that much to so many fills me with awe.

Grandpa and Grandma raised four daughters who all became world-class mothers themselves.  (I include my grandmother because their lives were so intertwined it’s impossible to talk about one without including the other.)  I wasn’t around to directly observe how they parented their girls,  of course, but I know that I am a beneficiary of the life these two people led.  Together, they modeled what it means to be good human beings and they succeeded in producing four incredible women.  All the kids in my generation are so very lucky to have been raised by these women.  Hopefully we will be capable of raising yet another generation of incredible people, and Grandpa’s life can continue to ripple through many generations to come.

My cousin Betsy recently gave birth to Grandpa’s 12th great-grandchild, a beautiful little boy named Lewis.  Since Grandpa served during WWII, he received a military ceremony at his internment site.  When the guns fired for the salut, baby Lewis was startled out of a deep sleep and began to scream.  It was a poignant moment; we were burying the ashes of one deeply loved man while listening to the cries of a deeply loved new baby boy who is just now at the beginning of his life’s journey.  Lewis will never know his great-grandfather, but he will benefit from that wonderful man’s life just the same.  My children, too, with their heads bowed in front of his urn, are unknowing beneficiaries.

Grandpa was 92 when he passed away.  He lived a life most of us aspire to, filled with goodness and love. His funeral was sad, as all funerals are, but people spent far more time happily talking about Grandpa than crying over him.  Even in death, he managed to bring people together for reconnection, and added even more strength to the bonds in an already strong family that he helped create.

Grandpa will be missed, certainly … but he lived a most exemplary life, and that is anything but sad.  He did it right.

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Soldier presenting the flag to Grandma

Soldier presenting the flag to Grandma

Brian placing a wreath on the gravesite.

Brian placing a wreath on the gravesite.

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A final farewell to Grandpa.

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Headed to Montana and Family (Day 15)

The good folks at Starbucks managed a miracle! They were open right at 6 a.m. like the lady said they would be. Somebody pulled an all-nighter to get that job done.

I have mixed feelings today. We’re headed to Choteau, Montana to meet up with my family. I’m excited about seeing my parents, brother, and aunts, uncles, cousins, and Grandma (many of whom I haven’t seen in 20 years) …. but the reunion will be a sad one.

I also have nostalgic feelings for Montana. We’re going to pass through Billings this morning, where I spent my last two years of college and graduated from Rocky Mountain College. I didn’t live here long enough for it to feel like home, but it is certainly full of some great memories from a really happy time in my life.

We just happened to pass by the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument, the site of Custer’s Last Stand early this morning. This is the battle he lost to Chief Sitting Bull, and as Holden exclaimed when he heard Custer’s name, “Oh I know him! That’s the guy who’s more famous for the battle he lost than for any that he won.” Exactly true.

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The kids on Last Stand hill, right where the final fall of Custer took place.

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They really want you to stay on the paths.

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Gravestones marking where the US soldiers fell. The bodies are buried at the base of the monument.

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New monument erected in honor of the Native Americans who lost their lives. Two sides fought, after all.

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In Billings, we took a short detour to Rocky, to show the kids where I went to school and for me to reminisce. My old dorm, Anderson Hall, just happened to be open for summertime renovations, so we were able to go inside and walk around.

My room, #223, was locked, but the one next door was open and I was able to show the kids an identical room to the one I spent two years living in. Isabella wasn’t impressed with the looks of college dorm life (sharing rooms, bathroom down the hall) and has decided she’ll start saving up now for off-campus apartment rent.

Me, pointing out my old dorm room window to the kids.

Me, pointing out my old dorm room window to the kids.

The campus looks quite a bit different now than it did in 1994. They have spiffed up the grounds and added some outdoor artwork. It looks really nice, although a lot smaller than I remember it. I said that to Adam and he remarked, “Everyone says that.” Important or significant things loom so large in our memories. They seem to gain physical size, I guess to match the emotional impact they had on our lives.

Lovely new renovated campus.

Lovely new renovated campus.

I feel that I am cursed with a terrible memory. It would have been fun to do today’s visit with Charlie, Kari, and Claire. I’m sure they have clearer memories of the great times we spent at Rocky and listening to them would jog my own memories.

My introduction to facebook several years ago was what made me realize just how deficient my memory is. I was able to reconnect with so many people from my Alaska days (elementary through high school) and I was shocked –and somewhat dismayed– by the things they can remember. Their recall is so vast, and in such great detail.

For example, my friend Bill told me I won the 6th grade science fair. I vaguely remember the project — I collected various poops from our animals and mixed them with water in empty milk jugs, then attached plastic bags to the openings in order to discover which type of animal manure produced the most gas. It was really, really gross. I do remember keeping those disgusting poop jugs in our furnace room for several weeks (warmest room of the house) and the horrible odor that permeated our pantry, but I’ll have to take Bill’s word for it that I won the science fair. I have no recollection of that at all.

That’s when I decided to keeps blogs like this one; if I don’t write stuff down, I’m doomed to forget most of it. Everything fades into generalities and so much of the detail is lost.

Just when I think this country can’t get any emptier, it does. The road between Billings and Great Falls is a 200+ mile stretch that doesn’t even have so much as a McDonald’s. It’s lunchtime and we can’t find anyplace to buy food.

This is a first on our trip. Generally speaking, food is something easy to come by in the United States. We did a quick inventory of whatever edibles we could scrounge up in our car: three old bananas, half a sleeve of crackers and a 1.5 oz bottle of maple syrup pilfered from a past visit to The Cracker Barrel. It’s not much, but we’re glad to have it. The kids can’t believe their eyes: we’ll pass a lonely little house sitting out here all by itself and they’ll ask “Where do these people buy food? What about school? Where do they find friends?”

It makes me think about how inhospitable this land must have felt to early settlers. There is so much endless space, and so many dangerous conditions and animals. Obtaining enough food was always a concern, and the dangers posed by other humans … but just think of the other perils they had to deal with: wild buffalo, horses, stampeding cattle, rattlesnakes, bears, moose, blizzards, heat stroke, dehydration, rock slides, tornadoes, brutal winters. No communication, no way to call for help. It’s a wonder anyone survived at all.

Later …

We checked into our hotel and met up with my brother, Brian, and his girlfriend, Phuong.  They drove from Salinas, California to Choteau, Montana in one long marathon session:  1,300 miles.  They legitimately earned the Iron Butt title we’ve been abusing all this time.    Hats off to them!  (Also, glad it wasn’t us.)

Brian, Phuong and some wonderfully inappropriate video on his iPhone that Brian is anxious to share with his nieces.

Brian, Phuong and some wonderfully inappropriate video on his iPhone that Brian is anxious to share with his nieces.

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Estes Park to Sheridan, Wyoming (Day 14)

Yesterday all three kids bought novelty T-shirts in a tourist shop in Estes Park. Josie’s is black and says “Minecraft” above a picture of a thing called a Creeper. The shirt is way too big and hangs down past her knees. She put it on over her regular shirt as soon as we got out of the store and declared, “This is black! Now I have something to wear to the funeral!”

We explained many, many times why this shirt is not appropriate attire for a funeral and thought the matter was resolved, but this morning she got up (after having slept in the shirt) and happily said, “I’m going to wear my funeral shirt again today!” I fear we’re going to have a fight on our hands come Saturday.

Josie and her "funeral shirt."

Josie and her “funeral shirt.”

Colorado is lousy with Starbucks. We got royally spoiled, passing up locations without drive-thrus, confident we’d come across a superior location a couple miles down the road.  Then we entered Wyoming. Not only are there no Starbucks, there isn’t much of anything else, either. We’re passing signs that say, “Next services, 60 miles” and when you finally get there, it’s just a cruddy little gas station.  As the least populous state in the Union, Wyoming makes the plains of Kansas look crowded. Where are the “FREE LAND” signs here?

We’ve been calling our long stretch drives “Iron Butt” days, a term we borrowed from my dad. I got to wondering where that term originally came from.

There is actually an Iron Butt Association for people who do extreme motorcycle rides. For example, they have one called the 100CCC: coast-to-coast-to-coast (either New York to San Francisco, or Jacksonville FL to San Diego — and back) in 100 hours or less. That doesn’t sound like any fun to me.

The minimum requirement to become an Iron Butt member is 1000 miles in less than 24 hours. I now know that our “iron butt” days (usually around 450 miles, and in a car rather than a motorcycle) are an insult to the name. Perhaps we should start calling them something else.

Need empty space?  Wyoming has oodles of it.

Need empty space? Wyoming has oodles of it.

As far as the eye can see ...

As far as the eye can see …

All throughout the South (Oklahoma, Kansas, etc.) you can’t buy alcohol on Sundays. We’ve had to plan ahead not to get caught having wineless Wine Time each evening. Then, welcome to Wyoming! Not only can one buy alcohol on Sundays, they have drive through liquor stores. Drive through! In the tiny town of Sheridan, there are no fewer than two drive-thru liquor stores within stone’s throwing distance of our hotel. Adam went inside making jokes: “I’m sure they have an excellent selection of fine wines! Just call me Todd.” (snobby neighbor from National Lampoons Christmas Vacation) but came back out with a fantastic bottle. “I judged too soon,” he said. “They have some really good stuff in there. That place is actually really cool.”

Sheridan also boasts the only Starbucks we’ve yet found in Wyoming. (Note: I looked it up; the entire state of Wyoming contains 14 Starbucks locations.)

When we eagerly pulled into the parking lot, construction crews were working on the drive-thru lane (a bad omen) so we all went into the store … which was filled with rubble and half their counter was smashed. The lady said, “I’m so sorry, but we’re closed. Someone drove through our wall today. We should be open tomorrow, though.”

I think they are being overly optimistic if they think they can get that mess cleaned up and be functional by tomorrow, but we’ll see. We plan to head over there tomorrow morning on our way out of town, just in case they pull off a miracle.

Our last surprise of the evening was dinner. Our hotel (Holiday Inn) is nothing to write home about, but they have a restaurant downstairs that is convenient. We were too tired from driving all day to get back in the car and drive around looking for something that looked better. We went down there expecting to be served very expensive, sub-par meals. Instead, we received excellent meals and the kids meals for paying guests are free. We were treated to just about the best meal we’ve had on the trip for less money than we usually spend on fruit and cheese platters from the grocery store. So, Holiday Inn in Sheridan, Wyoming … well done.

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Estes Park, Colorado – The Stanley – (Day 13)

This morning we stopped at a ranger station to buy an America The Beautiful pass (for $80 you get unlimited access to all National parks) and stumbled onto a fox den.  The mother was nowhere in sight, but four cubs were hanging around the opening, rough-housing.  That was a real treat.

The weather threatened to be bad today, so we planned a short hike in the Rocky Mountain National Park rather than a long one.  Unfortunately, the road to our planned hike was closed.  We chose a different road and opted for a 2 mile hike into a campground instead.

We had a different kind of wild animal encounter on this excursion.  Around the one mile mark, we spotted some elk way off in the distance.  One of the strange things about these mountains is that distances are really hard to gauge.  We kept walking along the trail and then turned a corner and encountered the herd of elk.  They were uncomfortably close, both for their taste and for ours.

The females took off up the hill, but the male stood his ground.  He took a couple tentative steps in our direction, obviously trying to decide if we represented a threat he needed to do something about.  We quickly made his decision easy by turning around and high-tailing it back the way we came.

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"Dont step in the horse poop!  Don't step in the horse poop!"

“Dont step in the horse poop! Don’t step in the horse poop!”

The clouds breaking up, giving us a wonderful day after all.

The clouds breaking up, giving us a wonderful day after all.

On the way back into town, we stopped at a wine shop and Adam went in to get our Wine Time victuals.  There was a field next to the wine shop filled with little creatures.  Josie wanted to get out and see them.  She and I were standing there, looking at a critter infestation of some kind, when the wine shop guy came out.

“What kind of animals are those?  Are they prairie dogs?” I asked.

He said, “No, they’re ground squirrels.”

I said, “Oh, they’re really cute.”

And he said,  “I guess.  What they really are is a pain in my ass.”

Josie spun around at lightning speed and had a telepathic conversation with me:  That guy said a bad word!  I looked at her and sent back with my eyes, I know.  Just ignore it.  Be cool.

Then he kept saying it, over and over again.  “Those little jerks crawl through my heating system and run around in my store.  They’re such a pain in the ass.  Then they get trapped in the back room behind the boxes and chirp like little assholes.  I can’t tell you what a pain in my ass they are.”

Josie was staring at me and practically vibrating.  Telepathically, Bad word!  He keeps saying it!  OMG!  Are you gonna get him in trouble?!  BAD WORD!!!

To the guy, I said, “So, they’re a bit of a pest then?”

“Oh yeah.  Pain in my ass, they are.  There isn’t a good enough poison on the market for them.  Oh look!  Babies!  They are kinda cute, I guess … but they sure are a pain in my ass.”

Next up was shopping.  The town of Estes Park has some fantastic shopping, if you like Western art, turquoise jewelry and resort-style tourist traps.  We hit pretty much every store.  I overspent on jewelry and the kids overspent on other stuff.  In conjunction with the giant splurge on The Stanley, we’ve spent way more than we can afford here.  Our big plan is to mooch unapologetically off relatives in the coming weeks to make up the difference.

Cute little town.

Cute little town.

The girls checking out their treasures after leaving the store.

The girls checking out their treasures after leaving the store.

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A little more on The Stanley:

They don’t have rooms inside the original building that will accommodate 5, so we had to rent a condo on the same property.  It’s a fantastic condo (you could easily live in it permanently, as a primary residence) but last night all we had time to do was check out the more public areas of the main building.

The living room in our condo.  Full kitchen, in-unit laundry facilities, two bedrooms and two really nice bathrooms.  Top-notch facility.

The living room in our condo. Full kitchen, in-unit laundry facilities, two bedrooms and two really nice bathrooms, and private outdoor hot tub.

This afternoon we had a better chance to explore the rest of the hotel.  It has gorgeous, creepy old sweeping staircases leading to three floors.  Once you head into the halls where the rooms are, it becomes labyrinthine and easy to get turned around.

On the third floor, which has the vague feeling of an enormous attic, we ran into a group of middle-school kids taking the Ghost Tour.  They were all silently marching single-file, holding their hands out, palms up, with foil-wrapped pieces of gum on them like they were getting ready to feed horses.  That was far weirder and creepier than the building itself.  Most of the kids looked excited, but a few looked bored and a couple, downright terrified.  I have no idea what the foil-wrapped gum was all about.  I wanted to ask, but everyone was being so quiet I didn’t want to ruin their experience by opening my big mouth.  I guess I’ll never know.

The Stanley lobby and check-in desk.

The Stanley lobby and check-in desk.

Dinner at The Cascades restaurant.  The famous bar in the background.

Dinner at The Cascades restaurant. The famous bar in the background. I’m sorry we don’t have a better shot of it.

Holden on The Bear Chair -- useful sculpture in the back garden.

Holden on The Bear Chair — useful sculpture in the back garden.

Probably the most significant outcome of visiting Colorado is that I’ve now agreed to go to Machu Picchu.  We all survived higher altitudes than what Peru is offering, so I can stop worrying about our health.  Adam is already gleefully planning next summer’s excursion to Ecuador (including the Galapagos Islands) and Peru.  He has customers in both those places, so can combine family trip with business trip.  Now that my altitude sickness fears have been put to rest, I just need to conquer my boat phobia.  That one is going to be harder, but conquer it I shall.

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Rocky Mountain National Park, CO (Day 12)

I usually do most of my writing while riding in the car between locations, but Colorado is so beautiful I didn’t want to miss any of it.  I spent all day gazing out the window.

Not so for Isabella … she is writing a novel in the back seat.  She won’t tell us what it’s about, only that she’s on Chapter 4 and “It’s about interesting stuff.  Not, like, Jack did some boring things and then went back to his boring house and had a boring conversation with another really boring person, like in the books you read.  My novel is about people, but interesting people.”

This isn’t a problem until she gets mad over having missed something.  I bought a little buffalo sculpture in a shop this afternoon and said, “This is a nice way to remember that huge heard of buffalo we saw earlier.”  She said, “What buffalo?  We didn’t see any buffalo.”

“Yes we did.  There were probably over a hundred of them.  We all had a long conversation about them.  How could you not have noticed?”

“I was writing.  You should have told me to look out the window.  Thanks a lot.”

We drove through the Rocky Mountains National Park on our way from Colorado Springs to Estes Park.  We stopped frequently to make snowballs, admire wild animals (deer, elk, caribou, moose, marmots, and, of course, buffalo) and poke around in the woods.

Wildlife gets right up close to the roads.

Wildlife gets right up close to the roads.

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Finally, photographic proof that Adam is on this trip, too.

Finally, photographic proof that Adam is on this trip, too.

True to form, Holden got himself into a bit of a pickle.  We got out of the car near a big snow bank and the kids took off before I had a chance to warn them about unmelted summer mountain snow.  I ran after them yelling, “Don’t walk on the snow!  You never know how deep it is and it can be really dangerous!”  They all yelled back, “Yeah, yeah, we know!” (because, of course, they know everything.)

Holden approached the edge of a patch of snow and hesitated briefly.  In the split second it took me to realize what he was intending to do, he interpreted my lack of screaming “NO!” as permission and stepped out on the edge of it.  He immediately sank in up to his hip and lost his shoe.  I had to lay on a cold, melty snowbank and dig it out.  (It was really hard to find, too.)  He was pretty subdued after that, although once we were back in the car he did start to complain about his wet socks.  I turned around and gave him the evil eye, and he had the good sense to shut up.

Me bailing Holden out.  Note his body language:  he was really nervous about what his fate would be should the shoe be lost forever.

Me bailing Holden out. Note his body language: he was really nervous about what his fate would be should the shoe be lost forever.

Josie learning from Holden's mistake and NOT stepping in the snow.

Josie learning from Holden’s mistake and NOT stepping in the snow.

Example of just how deep the snow can get.

Example of just how deep the snow can get.

Tonight we are checked into The Stanley hotel (in Estes Park, CO) , the original inspiration for Stephen King’s book “The Shining.”  As it turns out, Stanley Kubrick didn’t use this hotel in his movie, which irritated Stephen King.  (He also substituted Glacier National Park in Montana for all the Colorado footage.)  So, in 1997 they did a new made-for-TV version that was filmed here, and Stephen King even played a minor role.  (I haven’t seen that version.)  The neatest part, as far as I’m concerned, is the bar.  It’s exactly like he describes in the book.

As a special bonus surprise, we discovered that The Stanley was also a filming location for the movie “Dumb and Dumber.”  This is the hotel (fictionally relocated) in Aspen where Lloyd and Harry finally found Mary “Samsonite” Swanson.

The Stanley is said to be haunted.  Downstairs, underneath the lobby, they have a “resident psychic” but she wasn’t in last night.  They also have some neat movie artifacts from The Shining and Dumb & Dumber, a butterfly garden, and an ice cream shop.  The hotel offers Ghost Tours but we didn’t sign up for that.

The other aspect of the hotel that stood out for me wasn’t even the hotel itself:  it was the drive up.  The road through Rocky Mountain National Park really is closed during the winter.  Even during the summer it gets cold enough after dark for water to freeze dangerously on the roads, so they close it at 8:00 p.m. each night.  The sense of isolation King described in his book becomes apparent.  If you were here in the winter, you really would be stranded.

Even considering the grandeur of the national park, the highlight of my day was dinner at The Cascades, the restaurant in The Stanley’s lobby.  It’s adjacent to the famous bar.  I kept thinking Stephen King probably ate right here!  Stephen King probably ordered a drink at that bar!  Stephen King probably walked up this staircase and touched this bannister!  I was totally star-struck by a guy who wasn’t even there.  I like to think that I’d be cool if I ever saw someone famous (and I did remain cool when I saw Patrick Stewart at The Tower of London last year) but if Stephen King abruptly entered my field of vision, I’d probably hyperventilate and pass out like overwrought ladies back in the corset days.  I would not be cool.  I know this about myself now, because I wasn’t very cool last night at dinner when I was eating in a place I knew he has visited a couple of times.

Redrum, redrum.

Redrum, redrum.

Footnote:  The guy Adam met with in Oklahoma City last week sent him this email:

“That was a pretty rough introduction to Oklahoma.  Glad everyone was OK.  In the one night you stayed in OKC you were closer to a tornado than I have been in the 40 years I have lived here.

You might be interested to know that they upgraded the El Reno tornado (part of the storm system that hit you all on Friday night) to an EF-5 (the worst category of tornado.)  It was also determined to be 2.6 miles wide.  The largest tornado ever recorded.  Fortunately, for most of it’s path as an EF-5 it was over open farmland.”

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On the Road Again … (Day 10): A Day of Recovery

The area between Wichita and Colorado Springs is the land the internet forgot.  The majority of Adam’s & my “in drive” entertainment is to listen to the radio and research factoids that occur to us based on what we hear.  For example, I’ll say “Does Thin Lizzy mean something dirty?” and Adam will say, “I don’t know but it sounds like it probably does.”  Then I’ll grab the iPad and look up all the information I can find on Thin Lizzy and we’ll feel smarter.

Today, alas, our curiosity is destined to go unsatisfied.  I will never know if Thin Lizzy means something dirty because by the time our internet connection is restored, I will have forgotten all about looking it up.

We’ve had to replace gaining knowledge for ourselves with quizzing the kids to see if they are paying any attention at all to what we’re doing on this trip.  Adam will present trivia questions and offer $1 to any kid who can come up with something even approximating a correct answer.  He’ll ask, “Can anyone tell me what the flattest state in the United States is?”  Nobody can.  “The answer is Kansas.  The state we’re currently in.”

After a few minutes, he’ll say, “Can anyone tell me which state is the geographical center of the United States?”  They offer a whole spate of wrong answers.  Exasperated, Adam will say, “It’s Kansas.  The state we’re currently in.”

He muttered to me, “When I was their age, I could name every state capital and point out every country of the world on a globe.”  I said, “You sure mention that a lot.  Our kids know different stuff.  Yesterday Holden knew what an anemometer was.”  Adam made a face and said, “Well, he learned that in school.  It doesn’t count.”

Isabella will invariably say, “I knew that!” after each trivia answer is revealed and then Adam will say, “If you know all these answers, why don’t you ever say them and get the money?”  She says, “Well, I couldn’t think of the word but when you said it, I suddenly knew that I knew it.”

I call this the Jeopardy Syndrome.  That’s how I feel every time I watch that show.  I kinda sorta have the answer sitting in my brain behind a foggy cloud, and then the contestant will answer and I’ll think, Of course!  How obvious.  I knew that.  The trick is being able to pull all this information out on cue, when it actually counts.  That’s tough.

Our spirits are higher today.  Even though we’re ultimately headed toward a funeral, we have a few days of fun things planned before we get to Montana, and we’re putting Tornado Alley in our rear view mirror.  The mood in our car is once again bordering on optimistic.

Every time an Allman Brothers song comes on, I mentally kick myself for quitting guitar lessons when I was 12.  I hated those lessons and wasn’t any good as a musician.  Every practice session was a torture of boredom and loathing, and I quit the moment my parents let me off the hook.  The Allman Brothers always give me a twinge of regret, although I don’t want to bother learning to play now.  I don’t want to learn, I want to have already learned, which is an important distinction.  That way, right now, I’d be a master and could blow everyone away with my incredible skillz.  People would think I was marvelous and awesome, and would love listening to me play while also being jealous they weren’t me.  All the hard work and cramped, bleeding fingers would be long behind me.  So, I’m miffed at short-sighted Past Me, but just the same old lazy, uninterested Present Me that I was back then.  I think this is what they mean when they say that people never really change.

Just outside of Wa Keeney, Kansas, Josie farted …  rendering the interior of our car nearly uninhabitable.  For such a tiny girl, she can muster up a powerful stink.  Adam rolled all the windows down to air us out.   Once we could breathe again, he rolled the windows back up and Josie’s promptly broke, hopelessly stuck in the open position.  No amount of button-smashing was going to get it closed.

We pulled over at a gas station and Adam tried to remove the door panel to lift the glass manually, but discovered you need professional grade tools to accomplish that task.  All we have is an emergency tool kit that’s intended for tire and battery changing.  Since it’s Sunday in the middle of Kansas, no mechanics within 200 miles are open.  We tried calling a great number of them.

It looks like we’ll have to drive all the way to Colorado Springs (284 miles from here) and try our luck tomorrow morning.  Normally this kind of inconvenience stresses me out, but now we’re all just thankful it’s not a tornado-level problem.  A busted window can be dealt with.  A great irony, though; we’re on a long stretch of road where the farmers have recently fertilized their fields.  We’ve traded a Josie toot for hundreds of square miles of cow manure.  (It’s a fairer trade than you’d think.)

We keep seeing roadside signs advertising FREE LAND!! in huge block letters.  Turns out, this is exactly what it sounds like.  There is so much nothing out here the states are literally giving away free land to anyone foolhardy enough to take it.  They figure if someone can scratch even a little bit of something together, it will be an improvement over the absolute nothing that is there now.

Back in college, my friend Brad was the only one in our group who owned a working car.  He was therefore the person who got stuck with any and all driving duties, which was probably a thankless task from his perspective.  Grateful as we all were for free rides, that didn’t stop folks complaining, mostly because Fairbanks was so unbelievably cold and every moment spent outside unbearably miserable.  This led to many conversations like this: We’d be walking through an endless parking lot and someone (who had summoned Brad for a free ride home) would say, “Geez, Brad, where the hell did you park?” and he’d snap, “I had to park out in Buttfuck Egypt.  You’re welcome.

As you may glean from context, this is shorthand for “ridiculously far away from where one actually needs to be.”   That’s what you’d be getting if you took some of the free Kansas or Colorado land … a spot out in Buttfuck Egypt, all for your very own.   For a person with that special Pioneer spirit who likes lots of elbow room, this could be a really sweet deal.

We’re safely checked into our rooms in Colorado Springs now.  The landscape here is stunning and we’re all really excited about driving up Pikes Peak tomorrow.  The Ford dealership opens at 7 a.m. and with any luck we can get the window fixed without cutting too much into our day.  Once again, we have no photos of today but hope to get some spectacular shots tomorrow.

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Colorado Springs (Day 11)

Colorado Springs is gorgeous. The town is beautiful and the setting is magnificant. It makes a terrific first impression. I don’t know what it would be like to live here during a brutal winter, but on a nice day in early June, it really doesn’t get any better.

Adam spent the morning trying to get the Ford dealership to offer decent customer service on our window and was ultimately unsuccessful. They were so unhelpful Adam finally gave up and left. He found another local mechanic and got the window fixed.

(Adam:)  I get to the Ford dealership service center right at 7:00am, when they open.  I explain to the service tech the problem and give him several routes to solving the problem.  I let him know that a) If they have the replacement window motor in stock, I’ll buy it and pay them to replace the bad motor; or b) if they don’t have the motor, I want them just to pull the existing motor, push up the actuator and replace the motor into position.  I let him know that we were just passing through and needed a quick solution.

He told me that he didn’t know if they could even get to my car today. I asked him “when will you know whether you can see my car?” He said: “I don’t quite know the answer to that.”
I asked: “Do you have the motor in stock?”
He: “I won’t know the answer to that until we enter your ticket into the computer.”
Adam: “When can you enter my ticket into the computer?”
He: “I’m not quite sure yet.  I don’t know when we can enter your ticket, and we won’t know if we can see your car until after we enter the ticket and see when a technician can be made available.”
Adam: “So, I really just need to leave, don’t I?”

I see this far too frequently these days.  Computers cease becoming tools and begin to become masters.  This (potentially) capable technician couldn’t look at my car because a computer wouldn’t let him.  He couldn’t tell me when he could even tell me if he could look at the car.  I drove off in disgust.  This is a Ford dealership.  Not good, Ford.

I drove around town a bit and ran into an independent shop that sold and claimed to service trucks.  They opened at 7:30 and I arrived just in time for them to open up and let me explain my plight.  

The technician there thought about it a moment and then said “Well, I’m afraid that we wouldn’t be able to take a look at your window until…… 8:00 at the earliest.” I thought he was going to say “Thursday.”

I left him the keys and walked up to a Starbucks several blocks down the road, got a coffee and read some blogs about how UT will dominate all of football in the upcoming year (for certain, this time…)

I was out of there by 9:00 with the window “fixed.”  That is, the tech got it running again, but told me that the motor would need to be replaced and strongly recommended that we not touch it until we got to Grangeville or Corvallis and had the time to fix it properly.

(Brenda again …) Shortly after leaving the mechanic, Adam discovered that now his window won’t open.  It seems we have a glitch in our electrical system.  The bottom line, at least for now, is that we don’t dare open the windows at any cost.

We thought this would be easy, but immediately ran into problems. Our first destination this morning was Pikes Peak.

For years, Adam has been trying to talk me into going to Machu Picchu (Peru) and I’ve dragged my feet every time he brings it up. The reason is the altitude. I’ve heard too many stories about people getting sick and stranded, where suddenly something that was supposed to be fun turns into a dangerous nightmare. They recommend that if you decide to try visiting, go spend several days acclimating in Cusco. The reason for this is that evacuation from Cusco is easy if you find yourself in trouble. Once you set out for Machu Picchu, if you get into trouble you’re screwed. That sounds too dangerous and risky to me.

Back to this morning: we drove up to the ranger station to buy tickets and the first thing the guy said was, “You’re in luck! The summit was closed until just a few minutes ago because the winds were over 50 mph and we can’t let people up there when it’s that’s dangerous. It seems to have calmed down now, though. You should be OK.”

The second thing he said was, “Turn off your air conditioner and make sure you have at least half a tank of gas. Only drive in low gear. That’s really important. You’ll overheat your engine and destroy your brakes if you don’t.”

Then he said this: “Oh yeah, you’ll also need to open your windows. If you don’t, the air pressure change will blow your windows out. It happened to someone yesterday. I don’t mean to scare you, but you do need to be really careful. Exploding windows are really dangerous.”  Engine failure, brake failure, exploding windows?  This is more than I’d bargained for.

The summit of Pikes Peak is 14,110 feet. I suddenly started thinking about altitude sickness and asked Adam, “What’s the elevation of Machu Picchu?” I knew that could be dangerous, but this would be OK … right? Certainly Pikes Peak is lower than Cusco. It just has to be.

I grabbed the iPad and looked it up: Machu Picchu, the place I’ve steadfastly refused to go to because of it’s unacceptable level of risk, is a mere 7,972 feet. Cusco, which is a little higher, is 11,800 feet. And now here I am, staring at 14,115. I started to feel a panic attack coming on. I’ve had enough danger on this trip already.

We gingerly cracked open my window and Holden’s, the only ones not giving trouble so far. We opened them the tiniest bit; just enough to equalize air pressure, but not too much in case they got stuck that way.

We began the 19-mile ascent with Adam giving me looks out of the corner of his eye. He was convinced I was going to freak out for no good reason and ruin his chance to reach the top of Pikes Peak. He was sitting over there in the driver’s seat getting ready to dig in his heels on this one, and saying things designed to disarm my anxiety. “We’ll be fine. This is a famous tourist destination, thousands of people come here every year. Stop being such a nervous Nelly.”

Then, right around mile marker 1, Holden started farting. He released noxious gas every 3 minutes up the 19-mile drive to the summit. With each 500 feet gained in elevation, one more toxic fart. We couldn’t open the windows, and the air was getting thinner and harder to breathe by the moment. With ears popping and eyes watering, we couldn’t tell if we were getting nauseated from the altitude or from breathing the trapped foul stench in our car. The only one not bothered by any of this was Holden.

We didn’t even dare stop to open the doors and air out. The park ranger gave us a leaflet titled, “Safety on the Mountain” chock-full of scary sounding stuff. It explicitly stated, “We recommend that you drive up to the summit and save picture stops and points of interest for the drive down. This will be easier on your vehicle.” And, “The Pikes Peak Highway Rangers conduct a brake check at Glen Cove. They will check the temperature of your brakes for excessive brake heat. Your safety is our concern.” If you stop on the way up, the grade is so steep some cars have a hard time getting going again. On the way down, stopping periodically can give your brakes time to cool off. We wanted desperately to stop on the way up, but didn’t dare.

We finally reached the summit, which took about an hour. At the top, they have a little restaurant and gift shop.

It was windy and cold.

(Adam: It is 88 degrees today in Colorado Springs.  It got down to 38 degrees at the summit of Pikes peak.)

We hadn’t been enjoying the view more than about 30 seconds when Holden announced he needed a bathroom. I took him into the restaurant and spent 20 minutes standing in front of the men’s room door while Holden took the world’s longest poo.

Panoramic shot from the roof of the world.

Panoramic shot from the roof of the world.

I missed my chance to explore the views, but didn’t mind too much because the restaurant was warm. There were a lot of people in there and none seemed to be suffering ill-effects, so I started to relax a little. This was as high as it got, and all these people seemed just fine. (Later, Adam told me that outside they had at least three EMT vehicles stationed to respond to emergencies. I’m glad I didn’t know about that until after we were already back down the mountain.)

Cold and windy. We all felt a bit dizzy and fatigued at these heights. On the summit, there is only 60% of the oxygen compared to that at sea level.

Cold and windy. We all felt a bit dizzy and fatigued at these heights. On the summit, there is only 60% of the oxygen compared to that at sea level.

Adam:  Walking around began to get a bit labored and everyone was soon wanting to get back in the car and head down. We bought some shirts and corkscrew and a warm bag of doughnuts and started down.

Halfway down the mountain, all cars must stop for a mandatory break check. A park ranger shoots a digital temperature laser at every car’s break system and reads the temps. Anything over 300 deg requires the car to pull over and wait 15 minutes (getting a lecture on technique) before proceeding. Our car’s breaks measured 75 degrees and the ranger told me that it was the lowest of the day. He even walked back to his “ranger shack” and returned with a candy prize for me as a reward. The prize quickly got eaten by the three guttersnipes in the back seats.

Brenda:  Confident that Holden’s digestive issues were behind him after his marathon bathroom session, we began the slow descent. Minutes later, the car once again filled with stench. “Oh my God, Holden!” we hollered, “Stop doing that!” He said, “It wasn’t me that time! I swear!”

And Isabella casually said, “Oh yeah. That was me.”

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(Adam:)  We raced back down the mountain to remove at least one worry from Brenda’s prodigious list.  We stopped in fashionable (and holy cow expensive Colorado City) for an outdoor cafe lunch.

L1002086

After lunch, we headed over to The Garden of the Gods.  It’s a National Park with some really neat geographical formations.  It’s a great place for hiking, and, if you know what you are doing and have the proper permits, some pretty spectacular rock climbing.  The kids had a really good time scrambling around on the rocks.  Thankfully we didn’t run into any rattlesnakes.

The kids standing in front of Pikes Peak - snow covered in the distance.

The kids standing in front of Pikes Peak – snow covered in the distance.

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Final shot – overheated kids.  Colorado Springs is at around 6300′ and HOT.  The sun beats down through the thin atmosphere and burns quickly.  Everyone was sunscreened to the hilt.
Tomorrow:  Estes Park, Colorado to stay in The Stanley — most famous as the hotel from “The Shining.”  I’m a huge Stephen King fan, so this is really exciting!
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Oklahoma City to Wichita, Kansas (Day 9): A Day of Processing

We drove out of Oklahoma City this morning on I-40; the very same road that took the lives of nine* people last night.

All the restaurants were shut down in our part of town, so we did without breakfast today.  Our hotel was right off I-40, north of the airport and in the direct path of the storm.  I’ve never experienced such fear.

Now that it’s over, I can be a little calmer and more rational about it.  The hotel staff was superb.  They followed their safety training and remained calm in spite of the fact that they were clearly terrified.  The guy in charge of our group had a walkie-talkie and was able to communicate with someone who had access to the weather service and got very detailed information about the storm.  We’d hear over the walkie-talkie, “It’s 10 minutes out and touched down on 1-40 1/4 mile south” … and then, “3 minutes out.  Still circulating.”

Finally, over a crackling walkie-talkie, “It’s one minute out. Take cover.”

Our guy said, “Ok, here it comes.  You’re going to hear it, but don’t panic.  We’re in a concrete tunnel designed specifically for this purpose.  It’s going to be alright.”

We all covered our heads with pillows and listened to the wind, the driving rain, and people softly crying and praying.   When you’ve reached the point that you’re hoping a pillow will keep your children from dying, the word “helpless” acquires a new depth.

Oddly enough, we never lost power or internet connection.  Adam had his iPad with LTE network and a couple other people had smart phones, so we were all able to watch the TV news coverage live.  It was terrifying to see that red projected path line going straight through our hotel’s address, like a little virtual arrow of death.  Even with up-to-the-second updates, we still felt starved for information.  What we were really desperate to know was the future.

After the twisters had passed our area, we were allowed into the hotel lobby but not on any of the upper floors.  All the guests were packed into the lobby, hopped up on adrenaline and a combination of fear and relief.  A make-shift party broke out and a lot of people decided to get drunk.  They needed to blow off steam.  Many of them, including the family in our section of hallway, were already refugees who had lost their homes in Moore just two weeks ago.  I can’t imagine how they cope.

We went back up to our room about 40 minutes later when they’d determined our area was out of danger.  Adam and I had poured a couple glasses of wine about 3 hours earlier and hadn’t touched them.  They were sitting there with all the worldly possessions we’d packed in a panic when we thought we might have time to evacuate the area completely, even though we had no idea where we’d go.  It was strange to see everything exactly as we’d left it.  When we headed downstairs, we didn’t know if we’d ever see any of that stuff again.

This morning, trees were down around the hotel grounds and there was a lot of debris from the flooding, but none of the cars were damaged and I don’t think the building itself sustained any real damage.  All the restaurants in the area were closed and we didn’t know what to expect of the highway. We decided to just leave and hope for the best.

Tree outside our hotel window this morning.

Tree outside our hotel window this morning.

Tree branches, sign and misc crap all over the roads and parking lots. We packed up and left - nothing was open in our area so we needed to get out of town to find some breakfast.

Tree branches, sign and misc crap all over the roads and parking lots.
We packed up and left – nothing was open in our area so we needed to get out of town to find some breakfast.

Last night I also found out that my grandfather died.  We’ve changed our itinerary to head north much sooner than originally planned to attend his funeral.  We already have hotel reservations in Wichita, Kansas for tonight, so we’ll stay there and then do a couple of “iron butt” days up to Colorado.  I think we’ll have a couple of days to see Pike’s Peak and stay in The Stanley — the hotel used in the movie “The Shining.”  Then on to Montana for Grandpa’s funeral, which will probably be next Saturday.

We stopped in a couple little towns on our way to Wichita today:  Guthrie and Ponca City.

Guthrie was a cute little town with a bunch of preserved buildings downtown (it used to be the capital of Oklahoma) that are now antique shops.  They were having a farmer’s market in the town square this morning and we bought a bar of homemade goatsmilk soap from a little girl who milks her own goats.

Ponca City is an oil town.  We visited a mansion built in 1924 by an oil tycoon named Ernest Whitworth Marland, which cost him over $5 million at the time.  He went broke after living in the place for a mere 10 years (J.P. Morgan engineered a hostile takeover of his company) and the house was sold to some monks for $66,000.  The monks, in turn, sold it to some nuns for $50,000 and it’s now a private school and museum.

Adam’s post:  Further up the highway lies Ponca City.  I wanted to tour the former mansion of E.W. Marland.  He made his massive wealth early in the 20th century via massive oil finds on Indian territory.  By the 1920’s, his corporation owned more than 10% of the entire world’s known reserves of oil.  This house is considered the “Hearst Castle of the Plains”.  It took 5 years to build and cost a then-unprecedented $5.5 Million.  
Come the 30’s, and the depression era, Marland made a few bad decisions, borrowed a lot of money from J.P. Morgan, and was eventually the victim of a hostile takeover.  Marland was forced to move out and sell off.  Looking for something to do, he then ran and successfully won the governorship of Oklahoma.  
He was married twice – with his first wife, circumstances forced them to take over the care of his wife’s young niece and nephew.  In time, they successfully legally adopted the two.  After Marland’s wife died in 1926, he got the adoption annulled and married his of-age former niece/daughter.  Despite this, his position, wealth and extravagant philanthropic activities kept everyone’s lips zipped – at least to his face.   The story of Marland and his wife is now to become a movie, with Jennifer Lawrence to play the lead role of Lydie Marland.
 
The house changed hands a few times between some religious organizations until it was made into a museum and restored to its original condition – with most of the furniture, clothing & etc put back into place.  It’s a real fun house to wander through and access is much better than most museums.  
Marland Mansion

Marland Mansion

(Brenda again…)  Ponca City was also having their annual “Herb Festival” to raise money for a local Presbyterian Chapter, and the rest of the town was shut down.  Everyone was at the festival, so we stopped by to check it out.  Adam bought some homemade beef jerky and Holden bought a handmade ceramic turtle to add to his turtle collection.

Holden hurrying past the "boring" basket display.

Holden hurrying past the “boring” basket display.

All three kids adding their names to the Name Chalkboard.

All three kids adding their names to the Name Chalkboard.

All in all, today was a somber day.  In spite of the pleasant distractions, our thoughts kept going back to the tornado, and forward to the funeral. The kids have wanted — needed — to talk about death a lot.  It’s morbid, but talking helps.  None of us slept well last night — the storm didn’t abate until after 3 a.m. — so tonight we’re hanging out in the hotel and will leave first thing tomorrow for Colorado Springs.  It will be a long day of driving, but we’re anxious to get out of this part of the country and closer to Montana.

(*As of June 2, the death toll has reached 13 as they continue to find bodies.)

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Oklahoma City (Day 8): A Day of Tragedies

Oklahoma City may be very nice, but what we’re seeing is sad and depressing, with a touch of scary.  I wonder if people living here have higher than average rates of depression or mental illness.

Our first stop was the Murrah building memorial  in the spot where Timothy McVeigh detonated a bomb that killed 168 people on April 19, 1995. The building is gone, and in it’s place are chairs; one for each victim, with the victim’s name engraved on the front.

Just when you think it can’t get any sadder, you realize that some of the chairs are smaller than the others … representing the children who were in the daycare.  Some of the chairs have two names on them, representing women who were pregnant when they died.  It’s a beautiful, poignant and incredibly sad memorial.  I’ve never seen such a gut-wrenching one.  In a city that is regularly pummeled with deadly weather, it somehow seems even more sinister that one human being could purposely cause so much destruction and pointless suffering. L1001953

The monument on the end has an identical mate on the opposite side of the water.  One is engraved "9:01" and the last "9:03."  The bomb went off at 9:02 and is represented by the chairs, symbolizing how everything changed in just one minute ... and then life resumed once again for everyone who had to move on.  It's beautiful.

The monument on the end has an identical mate on the opposite side of the water. One is engraved “9:01” and the last “9:03.” The bomb went off at 9:02 and is represented by the chairs, symbolizing how everything changed in just one minute … and then life resumed once again for everyone who had to move on. It’s beautiful.

L1001961 After the memorial, we drove to nearby Moore and saw the devastation caused by an enormous tornado less than two weeks ago.  I don’t even know what to say about it.  Seeing images of the aftermath in photos and on TV doesn’t prepare you for what it actually looks like.

Adam’s post: We drove a few miles south of town to Moore – the location of the worst destruction from the tornado that hit just 11 days earlier. I plugged the Plaza Towers Elementary school into my GPS and made our way through the neighborhoods.  

The tornado was about 3.5 miles wide when it hit Moore and it just completely leveled everything in its path.   As we approached ground zero, it got trickier and trickier to maneuver – many roads were closed off, either formally or just because the debris completely blocked the paths.  Once we got into the thick of things, we were out of our element.  FEMA was there.  Red Cross was there.  Lots of dump trucks and earth movers were moving about trying to clear things up and put them into formal piles to be hauled away.  Random people were walking about their lots, trying to dig through the piles to find any of their previous possessions not lost or destroyed.  

It was absolutely unreal and what we have seen on TV just doesn’t do justice to the alien environment.   I didn’t take any pictures while we were there – it didn’t seem right and I was already attracting enough “you shouldn’t be here” attention to suit me.  So, we drove around a bit more and then left as quickly as we could.  Imagine your house and everything you ever owned crushed down and spread out into a pile no more than 2 feet high.  The fact that only 27 people died that night is amazing in itself.  This destruction went on for miles and miles.

Late in the afternoon, we drove north to the National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum.  I wanted to view the original Remington sculptures and paintings there as well as the large gun collection they had on display.  The building is dedicated to all things Western Art.  This style isn’t really up our alley and looking at room after room of this theme became a bit overwhelming.  However, for those whose tastes are more geared in this direction, it clearly should not be missed.  For what it is, it’s an impressive place with a great deal of American treasures.

The original "The End of the Trail" by James Earle Frasier.

The original “The End of the Trail” by James Earle Frasier.

The kids killing some time while Brenda takes in the art (L, in distance).

The kids killing some time while Brenda takes in the art (L, in distance).

A room worthy of the manliest of men.

A room worthy of the manliest of men.

For dinner we drove down to the Stockyard City district to get a good steak.  The Cattlemen’s Restaurant has been at the same location since 1910 and has long been famous as a great steak joint.  The 5 of us split 3 steak meals – coming with rolls, salads, mushrooms, and potatoes (both baked and mashed) and all left feeling stuffed.  We all ate too much and waddled back to our truck, and from there back to the hotel room. L1001978  

Brenda again … We’re in our hotel now, glued to the news … a new violent tornado has touched down very near our hotel.  We’re not sure what we are supposed to do.

15 minutes later … We’ve been evacuated to a reinforced downstairs hallway in our hotel.  There are 7 tornadoes headed directly for us.  All three kids are in tears.  The biggest of these twisters is nearly a mile wide, and the debris cloud following behind is several miles wide.  We’re scared, to say the least.  Our plans for tomorrow were to leave early and head to Kansas, but I’m no longer interested in being in tornado country.  This is horrifying.

Party Central in the 1st floor hallway.  The hotel was "U" shaped and both first floor hallways were designed to be reinforced for storm events.  Everyone is tap-a-tapping on iPhones & etc.  I was able to watch a live TV feed from local TV news on my iPad to watch the storms' progression as it arrived. That thing at the end of the hall is a king sized mattress blocking the hall from possible debris.

Party Central in the 1st floor hallway. The hotel was “U” shaped and both first floor hallways were designed to be reinforced for storm events. Everyone is tap-a-tapping on iPhones & etc. I was able to watch a live TV feed from local TV news on my iPad to watch the storms’ progression as it arrived.
That thing at the end of the hall is a king sized mattress blocking the hall from possible debris.

30 minutes later than that: We were barricaded in the hallway with mattresses, pillows, emergency lanterns and bottled water.  The hotel staff opened windows to equalize pressure, so gusts of wind blew over the mattresses and at least cooled us off a little.  We were told to hold pillows over our heads and everyone huddled together.  Everyone was crying and one man said a prayer.

The family next to us lost their home in Moore two weeks ago, and here they are again, huddled up hoping for the best.  The mom told us that she was at work at the hospital (she’s a nurse) and her kids were at the very school we visited today in Moore that is no longer there.  Her kids were all evacuated, but she had several hours not knowing if they were safe or even alive.  The roads were closed and her car was wrecked.  She said, “It was a really long walk home that night.”  Her house was gone.

Thankfully the bulk of the storm passed us by tonight and we never even lost power.  Right now we’ve been let out of the hallway but told to stay on the first floor so everyone can be quickly re-evacuated to the halls in case conditions worsen unexpectedly.

I don’t want to spend any more time in tornado country, but Adam checked the weather forecast for Wichita, Kansas and it’s supposed to be sunny and nice for the next several days.  If we cancel our reservations, we lose the $200 hotel deposit and still won’t be able to get far enough away to suit me, so Wichita it is.  Our ultimate destination is Colorado.

8:30 p.m.  We’ve been given the “all clear” to go back to our rooms, but to keep the news on in case of any unexpected changes.  There is still thunder and lightning outside, but the rain has mostly stopped and the winds have died down quite a bit.  The people who live here in Oklahoma City are much more relaxed now, which is a good sign.  Earlier, Adam asked a girl on the hotel staff how often she’d had to go through these tornado evacuations to the hallway and she said, “This is the first time.”  That was not encouraging.

10:55 p.m. Sadness of another sort:  I just got word that my grandfather died this afternoon after a long illness.  He lead a fantastic life and made it to age 93.  He died surrounded by his family and everyone had a chance to say their goodbyes, so this is bittersweet news.  We will now be headed north to Montana.

As my dad wrote to me this evening, “This is one night that is going to remain in memory. Hard to believe.”

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