Milan, Italy (07 July 2012)

It’s hot. Sunny and hot – something we haven’t experienced previously on this trip.

Today I woke up, wandered over to the local ATM for more Euros, to an open bakery for fresh breakfast croissants, then back to our place for a nice breakfast in.

Afterwards, we drove to a park-n-ride for the Milan Metro subway system and, after figuring out how to buy tickets, where to go.., rode down to central Milan.

Our station dumped us out right in front of “Il Duomo”, the largest Gothic cathedral in the world.  Access inside and around was free, but we also opted to spend a little extra to give us access to the stairway to the roof to see the thousands of sculptures, gargoyles and detail up close.  The views at the top and around Milan were fantastic.  We also got there early enough to avoid the crowds; compared to the packed avenues later in the day, we felt like we practically had the place to ourselves – a feeling I always enjoy as it helps my mood, my chances to keep track of the kids, and my ability to photograph what we’re doing.

Afterwards, we walked aimlessly down streets and window shopped in perhaps the most famous fashion capital in the world.  I wanted to buy a new set of funky, fashion-forward Italian clothes for all of us a-la the Griswolds, but Brenda wouldn’t let me. In the end, I did buy a tie (for that maybe once a year requirement), so that I can say I came to Milan and participated.

Milan is also famous for Da Vinci and The Last Supper – we didn’t go.  The small church where this painting was made is quite fragile and crumbling.  They will only accept 25 tourists in over any given 30-minute time period.  As a result, reservations to enter the church are regularly out 6 months.  News like this pleases Isabella to no end.  She has decided that one church/basilica/cathedral/dom is pretty much like any other in Europe – and she’s really not all that wrong.

The cost at cafes in Milan was just ridiculous – and this is coming from someone “used” to the price of European travel (and the weakness of the US Dollar) over the past month.

Near the Duomo, we took a break at a cafe for cokes, an espresso and a tea. Each of the small bottles of coke cost €6.50 (US$8.00) as an example.  (I could hear Jim snorting his disgust and derision all the way from here.) When Josie proceeded to immediately dump her Coke all over the table, it wasn’t the mess that had me pissed. (My folks will remember the spilled hot chocolate in London…) Fortunately, the waiter saw it, saw Josie curl up and begin silent-crying huge raindrop tears, and raced over to save the day. Indicating “no-a problema!“, he brought to her another coke and a basket of chips (both for free), which also calmed me down a bit as well.

Later in the day, to escape the heat and the crowds, we stopped for another drink – and found it was cheaper instead to order pineapple and gelato deserts for each of us than it was to order a soda/tea/coffee … so that is what we did.  Afterwards, the same store sold bottles of water for only €1.50 if they were “to go” – which is how we managed to wash down the desserts.

Keep in mind that restaurants serve two purposes – to get food, and to (ahem) get rid of former food.  You don’t get to do the latter without the former … so to some degree, keeping regular requires an ongoing tax of food purchases that you may or may not be able to do without at the time. With 5 people (3 of them children), keeping everyone on schedule and at their proper levels of input and outgo takes some practice and forward thinking.

On the positive side, wine here is just about free.  The store next to our hotel has a wide selection of Italian wines for €1.80 to €3.50 per bottle.  I chose a high-end wine for tonight that cost us €4.50. While in France, I bought a Bordeaux brand I knew from home, which cost €10.50 there and goes for about US$40.00 at home.

We are eating more of our meals in.  Local groceries sell food at quite reasonable prices, despite the weak dollar. Come dinner time, we’re tired and want to be in anyway.

As a result, it has been generally cheaper for us to find out-of-the-way bed-n-breakfast locations which can accommodate the 5 of us (more expensive) but then save the extra expense by avoiding eating so many meals out.  This has also been a bit more fun (after a month of this, eating out is no great thrill) trying the local stuff, weird brands & etc, and has been easier on the pocketbook.

No reports lately on the Land Rover, because it has been performing wonderfully (well, for a Land Rover… ) Brenda will hate to see me write this, as she is a devout Jinxist, and is certain that by my very mentioning our lack of difficulties and happiness, we are guaranteeing a cursed future. Time will tell.  (Note from future Brenda:  time did tell … on July 14.  Bam!)

Inside the Duomo

Up on the roof. You can walk around all over the top of the building … the roof is made of marble.

View of the Piazza below.

Recovering from the spilled Coke incident. Those itty bitty Cokes are $8, and the fantastic basket of free chips. Josie can cry and stuff chips in her mouth at the same time.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, completed in 1877. A gorgeous double arcade full of high end brands from all over the world. As the Dos Equis guy says, “I don’t always shop, but when I do, I go to Milano.”

Lots of beautiful people about, carrying little bags of treasures. The Italian economy is doing just fine along these special 10 square blocks.

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